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cracks in exhaust manifold quick opinions needed


madpaddler

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Opinions please, yeah and it is probably very stupid, but bear with me. Doing some things to tiddy up the engine bay as suggested by CD and others here. Pulled the heat shield off to complete the desmogging at the exhaust manifold and found two cracks that have been hidden for who knows how long.

I assume this cannot be helping the smooth operation of the engine and may be responsible for at least some issues I have had.

I am locating a new or slightly used manifold now, but in the mean time should I disconnect the other end of the egr metal pipe that fits to the intake manifold and block it with the manifold blocking plate? I have a serious leak at the exhaust end and I figure blocking the other end may help while I wait for the new exhaust manifold...

Your info is appreciated as always.

Hal

'76 2002 A "camo blue"

'73 2002 A Chamonix

'71 Airstream Globetrotter

'72 2002 A Verona-crashed then stolen

2007 Toyota FJ

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See the pics below, The first is near where the egr line attaches to the exhaust manifold, The second is directly under #3 plug (it is hard to see at that angle, but the crack is about 2 inches long, the third well was the smart ass that works for me...sorry about that one.

post-9373-13667599456035_thumb.jpg

post-9373-13667599457061_thumb.jpg

post-9373-1366759945806_thumb.jpg

'76 2002 A "camo blue"

'73 2002 A Chamonix

'71 Airstream Globetrotter

'72 2002 A Verona-crashed then stolen

2007 Toyota FJ

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Guest Anonymous
See the pics below

Jonny is missing a picture from his family album! How could you stoop so low!

The cast iron cracking is interesting and not that uncommon. There are a couple things you can do without actually replacing it. You can patch the cracks to abate noise and leaks by using a glorified epoxy caulk. The problem with caulk is it will not provide structural rigidity and prevent more cracking. There is a product I have seen sold . . . no, not what you think! . . . But there are epoxies available that are specifically targeted toward manifolds and mufflers. Its cheap and obviously not a permanent solution unless you are going to just park the car.

Cast Iron is not typically weldable. There are some welding rods designed to fill in cast iron, so that may work. I should not admit this, but I have two MG manifolds that were cracked and after brazing the cracks, they have worked for years just fine. Not pretty though, since did not want to grind the repairs down for fear it might disrupt the delicate balance.

Good luck.

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i successfuly welded cast manifold with arc wleding machines and certanium rods.

pre heat the part to weld, weld it and make sure it will cool slow, put a blanket over it,...

i also welded some with gas/brass and it was holdong fine.

considering the cost of a used manifold, id think about it twice...

oh, and what a FAT crack...fortunately for us, the era of computers that can gives smell is not there yet...ouf !!

2006 530xi, 1974 2002 Automatic summer DD
1985 XR4TI, 22psi ±300hp
1986 yota pick-up, 2006 Smart FT diesel

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I have a guy next door that may try to weld until I can replace. Since I have a large exhaust leak, should I plug the other end at the intake manifold until I can replace the exhaust???

'76 2002 A "camo blue"

'73 2002 A Chamonix

'71 Airstream Globetrotter

'72 2002 A Verona-crashed then stolen

2007 Toyota FJ

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Guest Anonymous
i also welded some with gas/brass and it was holdong fine.

considering the cost of a used manifold, id think about it twice...

That's what I was referring to as brazing - with the brass brazing rods and some flux. Cast Iron manifolds (even for stoves) are certainly fixable, but not the easiest to weld and rarely look presentable after the repair.

My neighbor watched my working on my TD manifold and told me he had a ford straight 6 200 cu. in. He said after buying 3 new manifolds from the dealer all of which cracked, he would just buy more epoxy and add it at each oil change!

As far as the big leaker pictured (not Jonny) I don't think its a big issue to try and patch it while in the car. But depending upon your threshold for labor, you would be better off going pat's suggested route and remove it to try ad repair it. In fact, you could probably take the manifold to a professional welder and be done with it. (I am a frustrated artist, not a professional welder.)

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Guest Anonymous
I have a guy next door that may try to weld until I can replace. Since I have a large exhaust leak, should I plug the other end at the intake manifold until I can replace the exhaust???

As a stopgap measure, there are asbestos exhaust wraps that might be placed over any epoxy. Fairly inexpensive too, but not my first choice. Go to the autoparts store and you will find this stuff.

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wleding machines and certanium rods.

Right.

Heating it up (5-700f) and welding with a NICKEL rod does sometimes work.

Brazing would probably be better.

The small crack's no big deal, but that big one's a loser-

if it was me and I needed the car in a hurry, I'd braze the big crack,

put it back on, and start shopping for a new manifold...

Actually, if it really was me, I'd say 'Wow, I always wanted to try the '02again

manifold' and pull out Mr Visa...

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Hal,

I am of no help on the manifold, but I believe we ran across each other the other day in Kernersville. It was one of those, "holy crap there is another 2002" moments....

John

post-2478-13667599488832_thumb.jpg

2003 GMC Sierra Stuff Hauler

2000 Honda Odyssey Family Hauler

1992 Mazda Miata Wife's Grocery Getter

1988 Honda NT650 Hawk GT Dust Collector

1973 BMW 2002 Sunny Day Driver

1991 318iC Daughter's ride

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