How is this for a battery relocation kit?

[mtriple]

Happy Friday!

I need to move my battery and no way I am buying the rear strut tower kit as I don't plan on drilling holes in my towers.

I found this kit at summit and I like it. What do you guys think? Is 2 Gauge positive cable enough? Anything else to recommend to buy along this kit?

I like the price too..

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=SUM-G1200A&N=700+115&autoview=sku

TIA

Hamada

[Pierre]

Hamada,

Go to any pick a part and you'll find tons of E30s. Get the positive cable that runs through the car. Also get the junction box that's on the firewall on the passenger side.

Battery trays and boxes are cheap. I got mine for under $10.00 at Kragen. You do have to drill the trunk floor to attach the tray to the car.

There are people here who sell the E30 cable for $50. Post a request on the WTB board.

Best of luck.

[JohnC]

Pierre is correct that the pick-a-parts are full of E30s. That's how I got mine. It was pretty cheap, I don't remember how much but more like $20. Very easy to get out of the car also. The terminal that he mentions is very important, and while you're at it you may as well get the E30 starter cable. You'll need that too.

Nothing wrong with the summit kit, but you still need the terminal and starter cable.

[FunkyLaneO]

And to answer your other question, 2 AWG wire is more than adequate for that distance.

Nearly all the items in the kit at summit can be purchased at a boat supply store as well and usually if you take your measurements in with you, you can build the cable to the exact length you want while in the store, you could also build your starter cable at the same time.

[inkatouring]

Go this route, that's my suggestion: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/batteryrelocation/underseatbattery.html

[JohnC]

Go this route, that's my suggestion: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/batteryrelocation/underseatbattery.html

I looked at his before I did mine. He uses welding cable if I remember correctly. I really didn't care for routing the cable under the car. Nothing wrong with it, just didn't see any advantage over routing it inside.

I think CD recently posted a method. His is pretty good. He routes his on the driver's side of the tunnel. I routed mine on the passenger side. He commented on mine when I posted. His opinion was that the terminal is in the hottest part of the car in back of the header. He's right about that, but I haven't seen any adverse effect of the heat, but maybe it's a 10 - 20 year problem, not something that's going to do any near term damage.

[Pierre]

I figured it would be closer to the starter and I would not have to route a cable across the firewall.

[inkatouring]

Go this route, that's my suggestion: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/batteryrelocation/underseatbattery.html

I looked at his before I did mine. He uses welding cable if I remember correctly. I really didn't care for routing the cable under the car. Nothing wrong with it, just didn't see any advantage over routing it inside.

I think CD recently posted a method. His is pretty good. He routes his on the driver's side of the tunnel. I routed mine on the passenger side. He commented on mine when I posted. His opinion was that the terminal is in the hottest part of the car in back of the header. He's right about that, but I haven't seen any adverse effect of the heat, but maybe it's a 10 - 20 year problem, not something that's going to do any near term damage.

I meant the small battery underseat, not the routing. Sorry not to be clearer.

I actually routed mine through the interior and into the engine compartment at the firewall with the e-30 post near the distributor. The e30 wire may have some years on it, but it is too easy not to use IMHO.

[JohnC]

I meant the small battery underseat, not the routing. Sorry not to be clearer.

I actually routed mine through the interior and into the engine compartment at the firewall with the e-30 post near the distributor. The e30 wire may have some years on it, but it is too easy not to use IMHO.

OK, yes I agree with you! I did mine underseat as well. My terminal is in the same place as yours.

Zenon makes a great point. I also hate to give up any trunk space. I'm using two of the oddessy batteries. They are very powerful. I've left my H4s on for hours and when I went to start the car, no difference!

[c.d.iesel]

Hamada -

Just for your consideration, using E30 rear battery cable components saves you time, the connector ends are 'factory' tight and

save you the worry about faulty soldering. And to clearify,

I ran the cable under the rug, inside the interior, along the

drivers rocker sill up to the firewall. Not along the center

trans/drive-shaft hump.

I even ordered all the parts new from BMW - it's just

the way I operate. Besides - no bone-yards in So. West Connecticut.

Have fun - don't let the smoke out of the wires !

[mtriple]

wow great info guys. OK here is the deal: I don't have the time resource to go to pick a part and look, so I found someone on the board selling this E30 set:

Starter cable, distribution block, long cable (both - big and small gauge

Besides the battery box and strap in the back, do I need to order anything major or just some bolts to finish off?

TIA

Hamada

[Pierre]

That should do it.

I reused the negative strap of the 2002, drilled a hole on the panel behind the rear seat, attatched a long bolt and nut which ends up looking like a threaded stud coming out of the back. I attach the negative strop to that stud, with a washer and nut and voila.

Like Creighton, I run my positive wire on the inside of the car alond the driver side sill, through the firewall and bolted the junction box a little forward and above the master cylinder, right below the reservoir.