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exhaust manifold question


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I've never replaced an exhaust manifold before, but this weekend I will. I've read the excellent FAQ here about the studs and what to watch out for.

I have the Tii manifold, new studs, new copper bolts, and a heat shield exhaust gasket.

I am guessing I should replace the gasket between downpipe and manifold as well?

I am guessing I should use all new fasteners on the downpipe/manifold clamp as well?

I understand I should use red loctite on the upper exhaust studs which penetrate into the valve area. Where is anti-seize compound used? Is "Lubro Moly Anti-Seize" fine?



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I just did some of this myself a few days ago. With the red locktite in the oil/stud holes, when I removed the studs I pulled the valve cover off and took some hemostats and held a piece of rag over the inside of the hole to block it. Then I took some carb cleaner and shot out the oil from the outside of the stud hole. Just a little cleaner in there for the lock tite to do it's wonders. Don't know if it matters, but I've never had one leak...


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73 RHD Targa

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Yes - use a new gasket on the downpipe. If you need one, let me know. I have one I will never use - brand new - I will send it to you.

Be careful with the loctite red. Have a plan and test fit before using it. Remember - once it sets (and it sets fast), you need to heat the part up with a torch to ever break it loose.


FAQ Member # 2616

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Agree with "yes to all", except instructions given to me said use Blue Loctite on exhaust manifold studs after cleaning both them and the holes with carb cleaner. Don't know if makes a difference, but the Blue has worked for me - no oil seepage. Whatever my mechanic used the first time didn't work, so he redid it at no charge. You sure came up with your parts quickly! Where'd you find the tii manifold?

1976 2002 Inka

2008 M5 Sapphire Black Metallic, 6-speed

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If you have a set of thread chasers, use those instead.

Taps tend to cut, thread chasers tend to clean. Taps can clean, just go easy.

+1 on the thread chaser and not a tap

i think it would be next to impossible to prevent any metal shavings from the tap from getting into the head/oil passages and then creating havoc down below. in fact, unless there is a definite problem threading the new studs in, i wouldn't do either.

i also believe (others feel free to chime in here) that the studs are designed to be tight as they thread into the head - a semi-interference fit if you will.

72 2002tii

1988 535is  “Maeve”

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Guest Anonymous

Hello I went to realoem and got the original part numbers.

They were

07119908317 exhaust manifold studs

11621744323 copper nuts

I have the heat shield gasket on the way from Ireland. Does this remove the need for any metal bolt on shield? (Seen in realoem diagrams.)


(formerly known as deathcow)

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