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prepping for track day


gwb72tii

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My son (325i) and I (318is) are going to a driving school/track day at the end of the month. Here's what we're doing to prep, and I appreciate any suggestions about anything else we should do;

325i

replace brake pads (pagid)

flush/replace brake fluid

the timing belt was replaced about 15k miles ago

check dif fluid level (LSD 4.10)

change oil

adjust tire pressure

318is

drop oil pan and inspect (just read about loose/missing bolts. yikes!)

replace brake pads (mintex red)

replace timing chain tensioner with new one

check dif fluid level

change oil

adjust tire pressure

the 325i has eibach springs/bilstein sport shox

the 318is has H&R springs/sport shox

missing anything?

TIA

72 2002tii

1988 535is  “Maeve”

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Get plenty of sleep the days before. Your car should be done and ready at least 2 days prior to the event so you don't even have to worry about it.

Read and re-read the track/school info.

Plan to arrive early so you are not at all rushed.

Take sunscreen and water AND a raincoat and tarp to cover your stuff.

Let people know if you are new to this. Most groups will pair you up with more experienced people.

Walk the track if you are allowed.

Breathe.

Smile.

Remember that you are there to learn on your own terms, not become the next Mario Andretti.

And one last item I always recall was the quote," Eat some apples the days before the event. It's hard to learn if you are full of s***.

Steve J

72 tii / 83 320is / 88 M3 / 08 MCS R55 / 12 MC R56

& too many bikes

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excellent advice from both before me -

re-read, and re check, and re-read the above pointers.

additional details:

place your hands on every suspension, bolt, nut,

mount, linkage, joint, same for exhaust connections, hangers,

d-shaft couplings, GEAR SHIFT connection from under the car!

and center d-shaft hanger.

Inspect steering column joint - just above the steering rack.

Inspect for any coolent, fuel, and oil leaks.

Make sure brake lights work.

Rain-X your windsheild.

DO NOT OVER FILL YOUR MOTOR OIL !! or COOLENT TANK !!!

Your club should have provided a Tech Inspection Sheet

for you to fill out(and for your servicing Technician to

sign off after a Safety Inspection) that you can follow yourself.

You don't want to wait in Tech Inspection line and then learn at last

moment that you need to scurry around the paddock looking for a

hanger - or worse.... to secure something missed in your inspection.

RE-CHECK WHEEL BOLT tightening torque before each session.

Be Prepared, road tested, new brakes gently bedded in, plenty of rest and normal diet so you can enjoy yourself and focus on DRIVINIG - NOT FIXING.

HAVE A GREAT TIME

C.D.

20-2471357.JPG

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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All the above tips and pointers are great, definitely follow that advice. I can't speak enough to the benefits of thoroughly 'nut and bolting' a car before track days.

Once you are on track, if you find yourself stuck behind slower/or holding up faster traffic: don't hesitate to pull into the hot pit and ask the marshalls for some spacing. (Use the "stretch for time" hollywood hand signal) It only takes a minute or so at most, and the clear track conditions will enable you to really focus on yourself, your car, the racing line, corner station locations, and what your instructor is trying to help you with. That's enough for the first day. You don't need to be worrying about the Viper with it's nose up your arse while you're getting your feet wet!

Check those mirrors, stay hydrated, have fun...

-s

Shad

'70 2002 #671 "Bimmerschmitt"

'70 2002 BADUDA aka 'Wall Art'

'72 2002 #672 Sold

'73 2002 Sold

'79 528i Daily Driver (future ETC Clone)

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hey thanks everyone

we've never driven on a track before, so we're pretty pumped. both cars will be up in the air and thoroughly checked over, especially the suspension bits.

we start in a novice class following an instructor around the track, then eventually with an instructor in the car. luckily a friend who races a caterham will be there and will be hopefully with greg (benetton).

i'm not there to set any lap records, and hopefully greg will have a cool head about it as well.

i guess they run in the rain also, which should be interesting as well.

can't wait!!

72 2002tii

1988 535is  “Maeve”

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Have fun, it will be a blast. The noise level inside your car will be higher than ever imagined, there will be a lot of things going on all at one time, so try to relax. If you find yourself choking the steering wheel, loosen up your grip. Most of what will be taught is not intuitive at all - if that were the case you wouldn't need instructors. So, not only listen to them, but ask them to clarify, try to master one turn at a time only, it can be overwhelming at the beginning.

Just relax, stay focused, stay ahead of the track, and everything will just flow naturally.

FAQ Member # 91

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heh-

one of the few good deals left.

Steve runs a fine show. Good that you

have a mentor lined up, though-

we're a club of racers, and if this

is the first time you've run Bremerton,

having someone in the right seat is key.

Watch out for the VHT if it's wet. It's kind

of exactly like ice...

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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BMW Motorsport recommended a 1 L overfill of oil for track duty. Ask anyone out at the track. One Liter past the Full Mark.

I would NOT overfill an M20, especially not by a liter!

S50/S52 is an entirely different story. 1 QUART over is recommended to help reduce valve clatter. Self adjusting valves can lose some oil pressure. Not an issue in an M20.

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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BMW Motorsport recommended a 1 L overfill of oil for track duty. Ask anyone out at the track. One Liter past the Full Mark.

Oooh, milkshake! Make mine rootbeer.

Yeah, don't do this horseshit. And in fact, even in the S52 it doesn't work-

a friend's LTW was getting air bubbles in the lash adjusters

(what makes it clatter) and she actually lowered the level to

'right in the middle' of the marks and it FIXED the problem.

The thinking is that a bit more oil will help solve pickup problems-

more oil= more oil to pick up and keep pressure in the system.

The problem is that it's also enough oil (especially on an M10 with it's shallow pan)

to let it slop around enough to wind around the crank and get whipped to a froth.

Froth being a much worse lube than oil, you then lose oil pressure

and the bearings try to use air... much less successfully than

oil. And the lash adjusters get full of it, and clatter. Which is bad.

That's my experience. I learnt it myself!

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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It might not be as much of an issue for a single day as it is for a two day school, but don't give into the red mist.

On a couple of occasions I have pulled off of the track before my session was done. If you are wearing down or find yourself getting more and more agressive, don't be afraid to pull into the pits. We'd rather have someone who knows their limits instead of pulling them out of a tire wall.

Steve J

72 tii / 83 320is / 88 M3 / 08 MCS R55 / 12 MC R56

& too many bikes

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