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Exhaust question for racers.


Lee

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I am having problems adjusting the exhaust line to fit in there without hitting and vibrating throughout the shell. I will have a friend bend some pipes for me next week. Thanks for the head up. Anyone has pictures?

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Brake harder. Go faster.

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I'd think it'd get crushed that way.

Mine goes over- the secret was

buying a few pre-bent elbows, and

then cutting them up and welding 'em back together

at the right angles. Not ideal, but better than

crimping the tubing from trying to

get it to bend too tight.

There's not a lot of extra room...

hth,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Hey Lee....

Don't have pics, but you should be able to fit a 2.5" through the stock location. I have no rubbing or vibration. I even mounted the subframe bushing upside down to tuck the subframe up against the chassis.

I used to have the usual rattle with the old set up back in the day, 2.25" It always vibtated on down shifts into corners. really annoying, I can see your reasoning. Since I redid it and spent some time with the fitment, no isses since.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,285590/highlight,exhaust/

I think with a little time an patience having it all tucked up nice is the best way. Hope this will help. Good luck.

MOE

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Proud Member #190 since 2003.

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Hi Moe

You've done exceptional work on that exhaust and subframe. Pretty impressive. I think I should spend at least a whole day with some pre-formed tubing and a welder. I will probably do that in the Spring. I just swapped my big center Magnaflow muffler (that was rubbing when driving over every bump) for a... Cherry Bomb, which now sits about 3 inches higher.

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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all the race cars here in california (c-sedan VARA) run headers to a 3" collector. then about 2 ft of 3" piping and a 90 degree bend towards teh ground. Rougly at the center bearing area.

loud, yes. very . Jeff Ireland said it's the most otimal exhaust setup for a race m10. Very open and free.

Jeff's car is like this, so is scott parsons and others. I just copied thier setup and made my new exhaust like thiers.

I have some pics I can post later.......

68' 1602

98' ///M3 Sedan

88' ///M3 Sold *

06' ///M3 Competition Pkg Sold *

http://www.bmw1602.com/

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all the race cars here in california (c-sedan VARA) run headers to a 3" collector. then about 2 ft of 3" piping and a 90 degree bend towards teh ground. Rougly at the center bearing area.

loud, yes. very . Jeff Ireland said it's the most otimal exhaust setup for a race m10. Very open and free.

Jeff's car is like this, so is scott parsons and others. I just copied thier setup and made my new exhaust like thiers.

I have some pics I can post later.......

68' 1602

98' ///M3 Sedan

88' ///M3 Sold *

06' ///M3 Competition Pkg Sold *

http://www.bmw1602.com/

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Derek...

I have some pictures, as far as measurments and specific details, not really. You just have to make sure that it will clear the bell housing. Basically from the top of the subframe and the top of the rack is the same height. So the clearance between the pan is the same, but as you can see I had to notch the rack mount plate to clear the bell housing. If you go straight out from the bottom of the subframe, it will hang 1/2 inch lower to clear the bellhousing. The car is very low, and I wanted to tuck everything up as much as possible. Hanging it lower will also help line the steering rods up better to the arms. The other way around that is to modify the steering arms on the strut. I will so that some time in the future. Someone on NickVyse M2 site has done that.

This is a frankenstien mixture of parts. The reason for 3 u-joints was to get around the brake rod. THe heim joint is help everything stay in place. The double u-joint is from Flaming River, the center rod is fabricated from an 02 steering wheel rod. If my memory serves me right, the lower u-joint is from an E30. The rubber guibo has now been replaced by 02 poly steering guibo from IE. I had to use 2 since the E30 guibo is thicker than an 02 one. I have a picture of that somewhere.

th_DSC00213.jpg

You can see the notch here for bellhouse clearance. Ususally the steering damper goes in that place. THis is an early E21 rack which doesn't use that. Later racks use a damper. The rack is taller, than the subframe height wise

th_DSC00202.jpg

th_DSC00203.jpg

You can see that I had to turn the arm bolt around to clear the boots. Usually the castle nut goes on that side. You can avoid this by hanging the rack lower to clear the bell housing and mounting it back to clear the 24mm nut. The father you move it back the harder it will be to make all the u-joints work without binding.

th_DSC00204.jpg

Hope this will answer any questions. Email if you have any more, I'll try my best to give any advice.

Cheers.....

MOE

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Proud Member #190 since 2003.

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TX...

Yes it would hit at full drop if I didn't use coilovers. I have IE newest coilover setup. It has a treaded shock body, and is shorter, so it doesn't hang far down at all. At full drop, I have about 3/4 inch. If I disconnect the lower mount of the coilover, it will hit.

I don't remember how much shorter the new coilover is to the old bilstein setup. I would have to dig up the old setup and measure. They are for sale if anybody is interested. I just have the shock and lower spring/threaded collar.

MOE

SIGSTUFF2.jpg

Proud Member #190 since 2003.

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