engine and drivetrain 1600-2 5-speed and rebuild

[rogerspeed]

I purchased this very early (12-20-67 DOB) Manila 68 1600-2 that Mike from Camarillo had for sale on the FAQ last summer/fall. After putting in a missing later 1600 pedal box with dual circuit brakes I drove it daily. It ran well but did smoke and leak some. I decided to do the five speed swap first. But once I started, one thing led to another, so out came the engine and sub-frame. So far the rebuild has consisted of:

81 5-speed

rebuilt clutch & pressure plate

323 t/o

rebuilt master and slave(320)

block tanked/bores honed

nos pistons, hastings rings

crank polished/ new std bearings

head rebuilt:

New valve springs

new exhaust valves

all new valve guides (O/S)

new waterpump

m30 oil pump and chain

new chain guide and tensioner guide

new strut mounts and cartridges

new ball joints and suspension bushing

new engine mounts

etc.

[rogerspeed]

more photos

[rogerspeed]

more pix

[HarryPR]

Looking great!

Wish I still had my Manila '69 2002.... It's good to see so many early cars being brought back to life by members of this board. I want one!

[winstontj]

from the rear, I removed the center link before installing the trans, made it much easier to work

You probably know this if you did all that work... BUT you can just lock the wheel hard over and the center link will move forward enough so that it's out of the way. I always get nervous that I'll screw up the allignment if I remove the center link.....

[rogerspeed]

from the rear, I removed the center link before installing the trans, made it much easier to work

You probably know this if you did all that work... BUT you can just lock the wheel hard over and the center link will move forward enough so that it's out of the way. I always get nervous that I'll screw up the allignment if I remove the center link.....

Cool. I've done this before w/o removing the center link, cranking the wheel to the right as you indicate, and intended to this time. I had already installed a new center link (should be on the list) so removal was easy, just made for an easier job. On a side note the link that was originally in there had a slight bow! Since the center link if a fixed dimension, removing and replacing shouldn't have any efffect on the alignment, unless you find that the old one is worn out.

[MichaelP]

How did you accomplish this:

Isn't the G245 from the e21 a 4-bolt flange? Or is the 323 a 3-bolt?

[rogerspeed]

not sure of the year of the trans, came via Terry here in Socal, i think it's either an 80 or 81 320, definately the 245 with the three bolt flange, had to have my d/s front flange swapped as it was the four bolt. I think they went to a four bolt flange on the 82-320. I be posting some more pix later, retained the long-neck and the three guibo d/s and used the 320 transmission mount crossmember

[BarryA]

Isn't the G245 from the e21 a 4-bolt flange? Or is the 323 a 3-bolt?

3 & 4 bolt flanges - early cars (1980) had 4 bolt, later ones (81-82) had 3 bolt - because so many more were built, the later 3 bolt flange units are MUCH easier to find. Add to that the factor of the 3 bolt guibo being somewhat more durable than the 4 bolt, and many people feel that the 3 bolt is a better option.

Not sure about 323's, but since 323 OD transmissions are essentially a Getrag 245 with a different bellhousing bolt pattern, they most likely follow the same early = 4 bolt, late = 3 bolt pattern.

[BarryA]

on the engine/trans, too.

One suggestion - watch your shifter platform mounts carefully for a while once you start driving the car......

From the photos, it appears that your rear shift platform mount attaches the platform more or less rigidly to the tunnel - in addition to transmitting noise into the body, that type of mounting may result in premature failure of the front shift platform mounts (as the engine/trans moves around on its mounts, if the rear of the shift platform can't move, the front mounts will be forced to absorb more movement than they were designed to handle).

The factory E21 mount between the shift platform and the tunnel is designed to absorb a certain amount of both fore and aft and side to side movement as the engine & trans vibrate and move on the motor/ trans mounts - you might want to look into adding an E21 rear mount.

[rogerspeed]

on the engine/trans, too.

One suggestion - watch your shifter platform mounts carefully for a while once you start driving the car......

From the photos, it appears that your rear shift platform mount attaches the platform more or less rigidly to the tunnel - in addition to transmitting noise into the body, that type of mounting may result in premature failure of the front shift platform mounts (as the engine/trans moves around on its mounts, if the rear of the shift platform can't move, the front mounts will be forced to absorb more movement than they were designed to handle).

The factory E21 mount between the shift platform and the tunnel is designed to absorb a certain amount of both fore and aft and side to side movement as the engine & trans vibrate and move on the motor/ trans mounts - you might want to look into adding an E21 rear mount.

Thank you, I'll keep an eye on it. What I did was use a common upper shock mount rubber as a bushing between the platform and the tunnel. The high strength bolt has a large washer on the interior side locating it, on the underneath I installed a washer then one nut, a lock washer and a second nut, so that the two nuts are locked to each other on the bottom end, I'm trusting that will provide the flexabilty, so far no vibration problems.

[rogerspeed]

got about 150 miles, nothing over 4K, think I'm gonna be much happier without the left rear being flat!

[trangieboy]

Can you believe that my sahara RHD 2000ti NK sedan was built on the same day as your 1600-2 !!! Mine ended up in Australia !!

Mal.

[rogerspeed]

Can you believe that my sahara RHD 2000ti NK sedan was built on the same day as your 1600-2 !!! Mine ended up in Australia !!

Mal.

a good day for a BMW!

[rogerspeed]

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