Big Brake Drama!!

[Supergeek]

So I installed Irelands big brake kit on my '76 this morning, and everything went smoothly. I bled the brakes with the help of my Mother and everything seemed cool. When I finished I fired her up to take her for a spin, and there is no brake pressure! None! The front Girling calipers don't even catch. Brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. I know I bled them the right way. What could be causing this? The original brakes worked fine before this. The master cylinder is a Tii unit thats about 3 months old. I checked all the hoses and there all tight. One of the bleed screws did shear off at the top, but it was already tight and no fluid was leaking. I'm stumped. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

[PSloan]

Did you put pads in the calipers? JK

[Supergeek]

Yep. Every part was installed, which makes it more confusing.

[PSloan]

The only thing i can possibly think is that they werent bled properly. did you bleed the rears as well?

[winstontj]

Is there any fluid leaking anywhere? Did you grind the calipers to make them fit?

Sounds like you should invest in a power bleeder. It was the best brake tool I've ever bought. You should also use a screw extractor and replace that sheared screw. If there is air in there you'll never get it out.

[ingraham]

Two possibilities: 1) Incomplete bleed, as others have noted. 2) Master cylinder bore was damaged by manual bleeding.

The answer to both problems is the Motive Products Power Bleeder (Model 0109) plus the Motive Products Bleeder Bottle (Model 1820). This pair of tools makes brake bleeding a one-person joy, and it's a must for DIY brake work. The manufacturer is http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html and you can get its products for less from many parts vendors.

Master cylinder damage is common after pump-the-brake-pedal manual bleeding. It happens when you press the pedal beyond its normal range of travel. The MC bore there can be rough from lack of use, and forcing the piston through there damages the piston seal.

Repair the broken bleed nipple. Get a Power Bleeder and Bottle and bleed the brakes again using all bleed nipples. If the pedal still goes to the floor, assume you need a new MC.

[MOESPEED2002]

Any chance that you installed the calipers upside down. Make sure the bleed screws are on the top. It is possible to install the right on the left unpside down and visa versa. Don't ask me how I know. Good luck.

MOE

[racebmw]

Check that you didn't run the master cylinder reservoir dry when you were bleeding. It is easy to do with those tiny reservoirs...

Jeff

[Lee]

"I know I bled them the right way."

Looks like you did not. Do not blame the MC before you bleed the system PROPERLY. How much fluid did you waste before the pedal got hard? Did you even tested the pedal to be hard before going for a ride?

My best advice would be to have somebody with experience help you on that...

[Beaner7102]

I'd try bleeding in the correct order:

Clutch first - yes clutch first

Then rear wheel furthest from the MC, then other rear. Then front LHS and finaly RHS. A power bleeder is the best for this as you will need about 2 qts of fluid to do it right. Be careful, no brakes is a big danger, ending in death. Beaner7102

[TobyB]

did you seat the shoes against the rotors?

If not, the Volvo (or 528) calipers will take a half-

dozen pumps to move the pistons out and squeeze the rotor.

Otherwise, you might have a leak (heh heh)

or the pistons are self- retracting- do a couple a' pumps

and see if you get pedal.

There are a hundred ways to bleed brakes, and 87 of them work just fine...

t

[Pinepig]

and 87 of them work just fine...

t

You just outed yourself fellow ARFcommer.