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Well she is running, sort of , and oil leak.. aarrgghh...


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75 BMW 2002, Manual, used engine...

 

Okay, I know that I'm trying to resurrect this car on a budget, and maybe I'm crazy to think it is even possible... the original engine needs to be rebuild, so I took a chance and bought a used engine to get the car at least to a point that I can register it and drive it. The end goal is to get it to a point where I can work on the body and eventually paint it...but first I need to work out the mechanicals. you might not realize or maybe you do.. lol...having a car sitting for 20 plus years, everything needs to be checked, engine, radiator, gas tank, countless number of rubber hoses, clamps, etc. and to do it on a budget on a 75 is almost impossible.. well here is where I'm at... the used engine runs and I think that is a place to start. I have a good gas tank, radiator is good, new fan, water pump, I even went as far as purchasing the small tabs from BMW to lock the fan down. so in some areas I purchased aftermarket, some places I bought original. But here is where I think I messed up.. i bought a used engine...but I'm only into it 7 bills.. so let's think of it as an experiment. to see how much life i could get out of a 700 dollar used BMW engine.

 

So today, I successfully primed the fuel lines (with a cheapy brake vacuum) so I know that the line from the tank was full with fuel, hooked up the line to the fuel pump and put a plastic water bottle at the other end, the pump ended up priming and started to fill up the bottle, so I know I had fuel, I previously checked for spark that was good, so I just went for it and the darn thing started, I got it to the point where I could just click the ignition and it would remain at idle. So I know I'm on the right track.. I'm confident that with more adjusting of the carburetor and the timing, I can get it to a place where it will idle on its own and will act like a normal car....

 

When i was checking for leaks as the car warmed up, i noticed an oil leak...

 

 

 

 

IMG_0690.thumb.jpg.0957a3eeee37aacb5ee5d171f4f23493.jpg

 

 

 

   IMG_0688.thumb.jpg.77337d10adad923a09ea4f40aa3cbcb7.jpg

 

I did replace the oil pan gasket, and the valve cover gasket, however I didn't replace the timing cover gaskets, nor did I check the head gasket, etc. From the pictures it looks like the oil is coming from the upper timing cover area and perhaps the person that had the engine before didn't seal them all that good. I should have just bit the bullet and replaced all gaskets that I could replace that came with the gasket kit. but I didn't want to disturb what was there, thinking that there were no leaks there. 

 

I don't know if the pictures show exactly where the oil leak is, but from your experience does this area leak? or tend to leak because the gasket was not properly installed?

 

if it is just an upper timing cover, that would be an easy fix to repair with the engine in the car, and normally my attack on those types of paper gaskets, I apply a super small amount of "dirko" grey sealant. So i think I might tackle this to see if the leak stops. if not do you think it could be a head gasket leak at that point ?

 

so here is what I have.. a semi running used engine, with an oil leak that needs to be repaired, hopefully the repair is minor.

 

also I know that i have oil pressure because I checked and the oil is coming out at the rocker "oil bar".. but what is strange is  that the "oil" light at the dash is not lighting up, should it be lighting up when the ignition is first clicked? i ultimately want to get a oil pressure gauge, instead of the idiot light so i can see the exact pressure while the car is cranking and running.

 

 

Thoughts about the oil leak??? hopefully this is not a major set back and can be something minor that can be fixed with just a new gasket.

 

Larry_in_socal

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So.......as you probably figure a few things going on here, first it sounds like the oil pressure ight in your dash cluster is burned out, it should light up when the ignition switch is on with out cranking the engine, easy fix. The leak at the upper timing cover is common and as you say most likely can be fixed with a new gasket and some sealer, when you replace it try tightening the 6 horizontal bolts hand tight just using just a socket extension for a handle to snug them then tighten the 2 vertical bolts down and then tighten the other 6 bolts and it should seal. 

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Yep, that 90-deg corner of the upper timing gasket is tricky spot to seal.  But you have a reasonable chance of success if you remove it without screwing up the head gasket underneath, replace the two vertical gaskets that seal it to the head, and then use a small dab of silicone gasket maker in the two corners when you reassemble, and tighten down as Marty said above.  I'd give you a 75% chance of success that way.

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Do yourself a favor,  hit the bolts with a bit of penetrant a couple days before you plan to change the gasket,as a couple the bolts are open to corrosion.  And just a little "tappity tap" when putting them on.  There are a couple of folks who broke them off when re-installing the cover.  

 

Regards

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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On 5/14/2022 at 9:19 PM, Son of Marty said:

So.......as you probably figure a few things going on here, first it sounds like the oil pressure light in your dash cluster is burned out, it should light up when the ignition switch is on with out cranking the engine, easy fix. The leak at the upper timing cover is common and as you say most likely can be fixed with a new gasket and some sealer, when you replace it try tightening the 6 horizontal bolts hand tight just using just a socket extension for a handle to snug them then tighten the 2 vertical bolts down and then tighten the other 6 bolts and it should seal. 

 

Marty,

thanks for the reply... I'll work on the oil pressure light, that's an easy fix... as for the tightening did you happen to swap the horizontal and vertical wording when you replied, shouldn't it be... the 6 vertical bolts hand tight just using a socket extension for a handle to snug them up then tighten the 2  horizontal bolts down then tighten the other 6 bolts down....

 

Just want to make sure I read that right.. no worries.

 

 

thanks,

LarryF_in_SoCal

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No offence but I think your mixing up your horizontal and vertical, horizontal lays with the horizon, flat, vertical is up and down, apparently the only way Tom Cruise can fly a fighter.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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you typed 6 horizontal bolts....and 2 vertical bolts....and yes I do understand the difference between horizontal and vertical... and the 6 bolts on the upper timing cover look vertical to me and the 2 bottom bolts sure look horizontal to me... no worries.. I understand what you were trying to say....  and by the way Tom Cruise is too short to be a fighter pilot.. lol.

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