Another fuel system question

['76mintgrün'02]

The 2002 tank is an easy one to siphon fuel out of since there isn't a baffle like in newer tanks.  

 

I would probably take some gas out that way and then replace that piece with new fuel hose, but it depends on whether you intend to use the return valve. 

 

If you are not going to use the return line, it is best to cap it at the tank and drain the metal line that runs under the car (and cap that too, just to keep it clean).  

[lewisfoto]

5 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

The 2002 tank is an easy one to siphon fuel out of since there isn't a baffle like in newer tanks.  

 

I would probably take some gas out that way and then replace that piece with new fuel hose, but it depends on whether you intend to use the return valve. 

 

If you are not going to use the return line, it is best to cap it at the tank and drain the metal line that runs under the car (and cap that too, just to keep it clean).  

For now I will probably not use the return system. Was able to make the leak stop by disconnecting the return hose at the tank. Now I just need some way to cap it.

[ray_]

Er, why is there no clamp on the fuel pickup line at the tank?

[lewisfoto]

9 minutes ago, ray_ said:

Er, why is there no clamp on the fuel pickup line at the tank?

 

I noticed that too I guess I need to buy some hose clamps and replace some hoses this weekend.

 

Edited July 30, 2021 by lewisfoto

['76mintgrün'02]

You can use a short piece of new fuel hose and an 8mm bolt, as long as the bolt has a shank with no threads to clamp onto.  You'll need to cap it at the return valve too, of course; or bypass that before starting it up again.

 

The previous owner plugged my fuel return line with a bolt down under the battery tray and left it connected at the tank.  I've read of people having leaks and draining a lot of fuel when that "fix" fails.  The dumber thing the PO did was to put a screw in the little plastic tank vent line.  I discovered that one when I started sending fuel back to the tank and it got pressurized.  I started smelling fuel and when I took the gas cap off air would woosh out.

 

You might want to locate that little plastic vent line where it comes out of the firewall under the hood and make sure it is open.  I run mine into the air cleaner now.  Originally, it ran into a charcoal canister first, but the PO took that out too.

 

I'd save all the stuff that you take out.  If you don't want/need it, there are people that need to smog test their '76 cars in California (and Colorado?) and they might like having it.  I had a guy in Colorado buy my air pump bracket.

 

Tom

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

You can also buy a rubber cap for the return nipple at the tank.  Just make sure it is compatible with fuel.

[lewisfoto]

13 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

You can use a short piece of new fuel hose and an 8mm bolt, as long as the bolt has a shank with no threads to clamp onto.  You'll need to cap it at the return valve too, of course; or bypass that before starting it up again.

 

The previous owner plugged my fuel return line with a bolt down under the battery tray and left it connected at the tank.  I've read of people having leaks and draining a lot of fuel when that "fix" fails.  The dumber thing the PO did was to put a screw in the little plastic tank vent line.  I discovered that one when I started sending fuel back to the tank and it got pressurized.  I started smelling fuel and when I took the gas cap off air would woosh out.

 

You might want to locate that little plastic vent line where it comes out of the firewall under the hood and make sure it is open.  I run mine into the air cleaner now.  Originally, it ran into a charcoal canister first, but the PO took that out too.

 

I'd save all the stuff that you take out.  If you don't want/need it, there are people that need to smog test their '76 cars in California (and Colorado?) and they might like having it.  I had a guy in Colorado buy my air pump bracket.

 

Tom

 

 

 

I used a section of the original hose and clamped it with an 8mm bolt as you suggested. I think for now I will bypass the whole fuel return system. I assume the fuel hoses are something I can buy at Autozone? is there a size or type I should ask for?

['76mintgrün'02]

Any auto parts store will have fuel line.  Don't buy the kind that is for fuel injection.  It is made for higher pressure and is stiff and hard to clamp.  You want 8mm, or 5/16" fuel hose for most of it.  There is a short piece of 1/4", or 6mm at the pump outlet that runs over to your return valve.  If you reread this thread we've discussed that stuff quite a bit.

[lewisfoto]

4 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Any auto parts store will have fuel line.  Don't buy the kind that is for fuel injection.  It is made for higher pressure and is stiff and hard to clamp.  You want 8mm, or 5/16" fuel hose for most of it.  There is a short piece of 1/4", or 6mm at the pump outlet that runs over to your return valve.  If you reread this thread we've discussed that stuff quite a bit.

 

I am ever so grateful for your help, Thank you.

 

['76mintgrün'02]

You're welcome.  If you find you need a new plastic sleeve for the tank outlet nipple and want to snip that off of the end of the plastic line that runs through the cabin, bypass pruning shears work well for that.  They're actually my favorite way to cut hoses too.  You can see the sleeve poking out of the end of the hose at the tank and the one in the can was for my pump.  (As mentioned in an earlier post, I like using it for the pump outlet nipple as well, so it can have 5/16" hose instead of 1/4" hose). 

 

 

Just don't try to clamp larger hose onto a smaller nipple, like in this photo.    It's clamped so tightly that the rubber is spooging out of the clamp slits!

 

 

( replace the old-hose/plug you did today with new-hose/plug when you get some )

 

Tom

[Buckeye]

3 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

 

This not any ordinary pruning shear. It is Swiss made and is by FELCO. 

['76mintgrün'02]

Good eye, Buckeye!  Those little number six pruners seem to work the best for hose.  I bought the classic number two pair first and then found the sixes and eights for about a buck a pair later on. 

 

The number eight is the one I use the most on the trees.  I found a second pair of number eights in the St. Vincent DePaul's scrap metal dumpster about a month ago.  They charged me $.27 for them.  That made my day!  It's so funny what people throw away because of a tiny bit of surface rust.

Tom

[Buckeye]

You got them literary free. I bought one several years ago and still as good as day one.

They are pricey, but I know I cannot afford to buy tools twice.

 

[lewisfoto]

Okay I removed the return valve and replaced the hoses. Here are a few pictures so tell me what you think. One thing I did not ask was how much torque to give the hose clamps. I made them "snug" but not tight.

 

[John76]

You may want to put a rubber isolator on that fuel filter to keep if from cracking on the alternator.

Fuel spray and 14 volts are not very compatible.

See what Tom ('76mintgrun'02) did to his Jeep filter.

 

Re: Hose clamps. Snug is good....too tight can cause cracks and leaks.