Fuel Leak!

['76mintgrün'02]

Ohh.  that's a pisser.  I typed a LOT and the glitch ate my words again.

[Son of Marty]

5 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Ohh.  that's a pisser.  I typed a LOT and the glitch ate my words again.

I feel ya, brother.

['76mintgrün'02]

 

 

1 hour ago, RainMoore said:

So I've determined that the blue line goes into the charcoal canister, from there a small black tube goes over the radiator and connects to the return line, which is still connected to the tank. Does this make sense?

 

 

 

Yes, that sounds right.  Where does the outlet from the charcoal canister go?

 

1 hour ago, RainMoore said:

 

I may follow your lead and get a Jeep fuel filter.

 

Make sure the return line is sealed up in the meantime.

 

 

1 hour ago, RainMoore said:

I've replaced the sections of fuel line and the filter, but I'm confused about the "step up" tube.

 

The very helpful guy at auto zone couldn't think of an option that could withstand gas without deteriorating. While much more appropriately sized overall, the lines I used are 7.9mm and still too large for the outlet nipple on the pump.

In the trunk where the main fuel line goes into the tank the plastic turns into an old cloth-covered gas line for the last 8" or so, and that's deteriorating and needs to be replaced. Should I cut part of the end of the plastic fuel line off when I do that? The two different lines seem to be glued together somehow. When I replace that section I could cut a small piece of the plastic line for the pump, but then how should I connect the replacement piece?

 

Replace the cloth covered line(s).  It is "glued" to the plastic due to deteriorated rubber.  Peel or slice it off.  No need to glue the new line, but a hose clamp is a good idea. 

 

BMW sells a sleeve for the fuel tank sender, but you can snip a piece of the plastic line for the fuel-tank sender-nipple if your sleeve  is missing or cracked. 

 

That's what I used on the fuel pump outlet too, but that was my own kluge, so do so at your own risk.  Mine has not leaked.  

 

 

1 hour ago, RainMoore said:

I've also replaced the battery leads, and found that both the grounds off the battery had a lot of corrosion which I cleaned. I figure that could have been what caused the pitting in the points, and the busted condensers (a set in the car and in the glove, both were ruined). The negative has a 4 gauge to the engine and a 10 gauge to a tab on the body, which i replicated. There doesn't seem to be a ground from the engine to the body. Would you add one? and if so where would you attach them? Does anyone add a ground wire from the distributor to the body or engine or is it grounded by its connection itself?

 

Clean ground contacts are essential.  I'd run a larger wire between the battery negative and the body.  The one from the factory was pretty beefy and 10 gauge is too small.  Tons of stuff is grounded to body sheet metal, potentially sucking juice at the same time.

 

No need to ground the engine directly to the body, because that's what the two straps meeting at the battery do.  They're like one strap with a clamp in the middle.  

 

No need to ground the distributor to the body or engine.  The metal to metal contact does that.

 

 

 

 

[RainMoore]

Thanks for taking the time to re type all of that, what a pain!

 

33 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Where does the outlet from the charcoal canister go?

 

It connects to the metal return line, which is still connected to the tank.

 

41 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I'd run a larger wire between the battery negative and the body.

 

I've got a 4 gauge to the engine and a 10 gauge to the frame. What you said about the battery being a connector of sorts makes sense. might just add another ground to the body, or get some of those strap cables. I've read they carry a lot more current.

 

43 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

BMW sells a sleeve for the fuel tank sender, but you can snip a piece of the plastic line for the fuel-tank sender-nipple if your sleeve  is missing or cracked. 

 

 

I'll probably try this when I replace the old line at the tank. I assume this will work for the pump sender as well, and from what I can see the sleeve on the tank is still there.

 

Thanks again for all your help! Hopefully I can get it running soon! Would be a big step forward at this point.

['76mintgrün'02]

2 minutes ago, RainMoore said:

54 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Where does the outlet from the charcoal canister go?

 

It connects to the metal return line, which is still connected to the tank.

 

So, the vent line is being vented back into the tank?  That sort of defeats the purpose.   

 

 

I like braided ground straps.  That's what I'd use.  Make sure it is connected to clean bare metal.

 

There should also be a ground wire connecting the body of the alternator to one of the little bolts that holds the timing chain cover on the front of the engine.  10 gauge wire is good for that one.  If you already have one there, make sure it's securely crimped/connected.  You could also clean those connections while you are in there.

 

Tom

 

[2002Scoob]

On 4/17/2021 at 2:56 AM, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I think we're better off using modern fuel hose that doesn't have the cloth cover.  The cloth stuff is cool looking, but it's harder to monitor the condition of the rubber and I've read that it can be hard to find quality stuff that tolerates the ethanol laced fuel. 

This.

These hoses are maybe 1 years old, Max 2? I feel like I replaced them last season. Just redid all the rubber lines in the engine bay yesterday, and will do the trunk lines today. 

 

I'm guessing Ethanol rot,  as this is the line that runs on the firewall to the pressure regulator behind the motor.

 

All the fabric lines I've bought from stores or online have suffered the same fate in a matter of a year or two as well. Had a few scares back in the day driving along and things start smelling VERY gassy. Under that fabric the lines were like peanut brittle. Also had a set that would split apart at a very defined seam running the length of the hose. Those were BAD.

 

Also why I carry a fire extinguisher. 

 

Cutting back your existing fuel line to fit your mech. pump is also a great way to fix a smelly trunk at your fuel sender, too. I probably learned that one from Minty as well  

 

Edited April 18, 2021 by 2002Scoob

[RainMoore]

On 4/17/2021 at 10:58 PM, '76mintgrün'02 said:

BMW sells a sleeve for the fuel tank sender, but you can snip a piece of the plastic line for the fuel-tank sender-nipple if your sleeve  is missing or cracked. 

 

Got everything replaced, and stole your setup and relocated the fuel filter, makes everything easier to mess with in there. Seems to work much much better! Didn't realize how dry the carb was when cranking before, it must have not been getting any gas.

Ended up using some lawnmower fuel line on the undersized outflow on the pump. Was a pretty tight fit but it seems to work really well!

 

Thanks for all the guidance!

 

[R.I.P.B.M.W.]

   Do NOT run your engine with "lawn mower/'small engine" fuel line. It may fit, is cheaper than the dealer and is cool to watch the gas course through it but, you're playing with FIRE. That hose is for gravity fed small gas engines not for the fuel pressure  coming out of the pump to the carb and it may burst. It also may not withstand the under hood temps and melt. I realize that my '02 might have what some may consider a "small gas engine" but, not that small. If you really want to use that hose I would suggest you either carry a fire extinguisher (carry one anyway) or a couple of steaks and veggies wrapped in foil to cook on the air cleaner (before the fire department gets there) for your lunch/dinner. The right size automotive fuel hose is out there and not worth courting the disaster that will surely follow.

['76mintgrün'02]

23 minutes ago, R.I.P.B.M.W. said:

Do NOT run your engine with "lawn mower/'small engine" fuel line.

 

Words of Wisdom.

 

 

He's using the MAXPOWER fuel line as a spacer for the fuel pump outlet, to size it up to match the carburetor inlet nipple.

 

I'm guilty of putting the idea in his head earlier in the thread, when I showed my pump wearing a piece nipped off of the end of the plastic line that runs through the cabin.  I winced a little too, wondering how durable it will be.  The piece I used is tough stuff.  GenUine BMW.

 

Here's the photo I posted above.

 

 

Do you think this is an unsafe solution/situation?  It's been in place for a few years now with no leaks.

 

Tom

[RainMoore]

I hadn’t considered the heat factor. No fuel is actually running through it, or probably even coming into contact with it, but the thing melting is not something I’d considered.

I’m using good quality automotive fuel line for the actual lines I’m replacing.

 

I’ll look for a replacement before I’ve got this thing on the road. Maybe use some of the cabin fuel line like my friend above suggested.

 

Thanks for the good thinking there. Thought I was being pretty clever.

Edited April 21, 2021 by RainMoore

[R.I.P.B.M.W.]

   Sorry, I misunderstood the thinking there, Tom. I was thinking the complete line, pump to carb, was the clear hose. I would think that a short clear piece cut to size up to the larger size hose would be ok as long as there is a small (BMW emblem, of course) clamp on the pump outlet. Your idea using the sender sleeve is a +one also.