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Blunttech engine mount reinforcement - any tips?


tdskip

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Now that the engine is out and engine bay gettin cleaned up I should probably get this installed.

 

It appears to go on the back side, beyond cleaning everything well and making sure I have good metal to weld to any other tips?

 

 Thanks in advance for the thoughts.

 

 

CD7D6BB6-76DF-4B54-A579-51F734F9794C.jpeg

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3 hours ago, tdskip said:

It appears to go on the back side, beyond cleaning everything well and making sure I have good metal to weld to any other tips?

 

I think that one sits flat against the steering box side of the bracket, down between the webs.  The stud on the engine mount isn't very long and doubling up the web leaves very few threads for the nut.  People do it that way though and it seems to work okay.  I'd add thread locking juice for a little added insurance.

 

The broken ones I have seen all had cracks well below the top of the bracket, so you might consider shortening it, so there is only one layer for the stud to pass through.  I think that's probably what I would do.

 

When I did mine (as well as a friend's) I made a support piece that sits on the flanges, creating a box and kept it down from the top.  Either way will be plenty stronger-enough.


Tom

   

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Thanks Tom - I've seen your posts here on this via some searching on the topic. Nice work.

 

Do the rectangular engine mounts have a longer stud that would make the depth of the plate a non-issue?

 

Otherwise will make sure this plate doesn't interfere with the stud.

 

Thanks for the helpful and fast response.

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I used the Blunt plate also. True to form, it left only a small amount of thread on the stud. Enough to get the nut on, but not enough to "fill" the nut, if you know what I mean. 

 

My mechanic suggested a nut with a flattened bottom that has ridges on it...not sure what that's called but it provides more bite. We also applied Locktite. That thing ain't coming loose in my lifetime.

1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

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I used one of these when I pulled my front subframe on the tii.  Easily bent using a hammer to conform to the upright.  Don’t recall having any issues with the (stock BMW rubber) mounting nut.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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13 hours ago, tdskip said:

Thanks Nick. Hope you guys are doing OK back East. (Or, well, everywhere actually)

Oh, NY is fine now, best in the US actually. It's the other 27 states we have to worry about.

1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

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15 hours ago, tdskip said:

 

Maybe? Honestly don’t know, I may have removed it when I pulled the engine.

 

 

D4A1B2AD-EA49-4E2B-A521-0F8F88889FBD.jpeg

interesting way to unbolt the engine. took three bolts off right side of block instead of the one nut on top of engine mount.   the limiter is still there on the subframe.  assuming you are replacing the right side engine mount also.....

2xM3

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26 minutes ago, M2M3 said:

interesting way to unbolt the engine. took three bolts off right side of block instead of the one nut on top of engine mount.   the limiter is still there on the subframe.  assuming you are replacing the right side engine mount also.....


I am a 2002 newbie, so lots of room to learn but please do keep in mind I have a habit of reinstalling removed parts to take pictures and/or jog my memory for when it is time to reassemble. The car had also been partially disassembled when it came into my hands.

 

All the mounts will be new, now would seem to be the time.

 

 Thanks for the post.

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15 hours ago, tdskip said:

 

Maybe? Honestly don’t know, I may have removed it when I pulled the engine.

 

 

D4A1B2AD-EA49-4E2B-A521-0F8F88889FBD.jpeg

Nice Fjord tii!  Is it an early 72?  Hard to tell if it has a cowl notch.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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