'67 1600 update / 32/36 throttle shaft bearings install

[Johnny Haywire]

Howdy everyone. Please excuse my radio silence for the last few months, life kind of got in the way for a while there. I've still been visiting the site and have been reading your posts, just haven't had much to contribute lately.

 

That said, I have actually been driving the car regularly. It's been on daily driver duties since May or so and has been extremely reliable, though by no means do I have all the bugs worked out.

 

Now that I have cleared out some extra space in my shop, I've pulled her in and am getting started on the to-do list. After getting rid of the idle cut-off solenoid and moving up a size in idle jets earlier this year and still having an erratic and lean idle (and no vacuum leaks), I finally noticed that there was a good bit of play in my primary throttle shaft, I could change the idle by several hundred RPM just by wiggling it. Ordered the bearing kit from Pegasus and have been sitting on it until now.

 

The bearing install was actually pretty straightforward and, wow, I'm impressed with the result, nice positive action with no slop at all. One question I'd like to throw out there is about "peening" the butterfly screws to prevent the possibility of them backing out and causing, you know, very bad things. The factory screws look like they basically have half of their bottom two threads buzzed off and that seems to be a great solution (it wasn't brutal to remove them, but certainly required some effort). I was thinking to use blue Loctite and then also buzzing off half of the bottom two threads with a Dremel, but I'd like to hear your opinions on this before proceeding. And, yes, I did buy the low-profile racing butterfly screws from Pegasus : )

 

Since we all love pictures, here are some pictures. I also adjusted the valves the other day and started cleaning the engine up so I can see if there is any seepage with the new gasket. Plus, clean engine!!!

 

I know Mintgrun really likes the patina on my air filter housing, but I think it may be time for some cleanup and paint... 

Edited October 8, 2018 by Johnny Haywire
Grammatical errors : /

[Simeon]

The staking can be done in two ways. Factory screws have a dimple in the bottom, you can put a small Phillips screwdriver in a vice and then pass the end through the carb body to sit in the simple. You can the get a punch and strike the screw head from the other side. A little bit fiddly. 

 

The other method is to crack the throttle open and then get some reasonable size pliers and squeeze the exposed ends of the screws to deform them. Not a good application for Locktite as they will be bathed in fuel in normal operation. 

[Johnny Haywire]

Thanks, @Simeon, this is exactly the advice I needed. Which method do you prefer? I believe the low-profile screws do have dimples on the bottom.

[ray_]

1 hour ago, Simeon said:

in a vise

 

 

[Mike Self]

1 hour ago, Simeon said:

in a vice

The same as "Vice-Grip" pliers--the cops use 'em to hold criminals...used extensively by Crockett and Tubbs.

 

mike

[Simeon]

“Two countries divided by a common language”

[TobyB]

It's a vise of Ray's...

 

t