Time to do the differential

[mataku527]

I finally got a chance to put the car up on the lift.  I took a look from below and noticed the differential had a decent amount of fluid on it.  There was also some fluid on the right hand side.  I included a picture with the red marks where the fluid was.  I did see the FAQ article about resealing the rear cover, but seems I also need to do the right output seal.

 

1.  Should I also do the left output seal

2.  Other than the output seal, gasket maker, crush seal for fil and drain plug, anything else I need?

3.  I saw one post that mentioned: "rubber O-rings that go inside the bolted flanges"

 

Edit: after reading some more, I was able to find the parts.  I guess I'll just order the orings, both side seals, and cover gasket as they aren't very expensive and I won't know if they need to be replaced until I see them.

Parts list: 2 shaft seals, 2 orings, 2 gasket seals (for the plugs I believe) and 1 cover gasket. 

 

 

Edited September 6, 2017 by mataku527

[TobyB]

I use RTV on the back cover, instead of the gasket.

Either seems to work fine.

 

When you drop it, you may find it comes out easier if you

remove the rear support entirely.

 

have fun,

t

 

[Zorac]

I agree with Toby, pull it out to do the work.  Make sure you support it though as it is very heavy.  In addition to the parts you mention, I did he nose seal on mine too (it was leaking pretty bad), although I didnt replace the crush collar when I did it.  My backyard procedure was as follows:

 

-Check end nut is tight as I have seen them loose

-Mark nut/shift with paint

-Remove nut and flange

-Replace seal

-Replace flange, use locate on splines or it will leak out the splines

-Torque bolt to the minimum spec (150ftlb if I recall right)

-Paint marks should align

-Install tin cover so the nut can loosen off

-spin flange by hand, I used a small torque wrench to make sure it took about the same amount of force to spin it before and after seal replacement 

 

I've put about 10000km on it without issue or leaks!

[mataku527]

51 minutes ago, Zorac said:

I agree with Toby, pull it out to do the work.  Make sure you support it though as it is very heavy.  In addition to the parts you mention, I did he nose seal on mine too (it was leaking pretty bad), although I didnt replace the crush collar when I did it.  My backyard procedure was as follows:

 

-Check end nut is tight as I have seen them loose

-Mark nut/shift with paint

-Remove nut and flange

-Replace seal

-Replace flange, use locate on splines or it will leak out the splines

-Torque bolt to the minimum spec (150ftlb if I recall right)

-Paint marks should align

-Install tin cover so the nut can loosen off

-spin flange by hand, I used a small torque wrench to make sure it took about the same amount of force to spin it before and after seal replacement 

 

I've put about 10000km on it without issue or leaks!

Do you mean input seals?  I've read that is pretty difficult and since mine looks okay, I was not planning on doing it.   

[FunkyLaneO]

Drop it, pressure wash it, replace both seals and both o-rings (they are cheap) and do not lose track of where the shims go. Gasket and crush washers too, if the input isn't leaking don't touch it. Pop it back in and Bob's yer uncle!

[AceAndrew]

Little tip to prevent leaking in the future.  Smear a little Dirko (or similar non-hardening sealer) around the OD of each seal.  It's also not a bad practice to wipe on a thin layer of wheel bearing grease on the ID of each seal.  I've seen dry seal/shaft rotate, tear microscopically, and eventually leak prematurely.

 

-Andrew

[mataku527]

1 hour ago, FunkyLaneO said:

Drop it, pressure wash it, replace both seals and both o-rings (they are cheap) and do not lose track of where the shims go. Gasket and crush washers too, if the input isn't leaking don't touch it. Pop it back in and Bob's yer uncle!

 

Is the crush washers part 12 in the picture above?  It's labeled as gasket ring.

 

 

[mataku527]

57 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

Little tip to prevent leaking in the future.  Smear a little Dirko (or similar non-hardening sealer) around the OD of each seal.  It's also not a bad practice to wipe on a thin layer of wheel bearing grease on the ID of each seal.  I've seen dry seal/shaft rotate, tear microscopically, and eventually leak prematurely.

 

-Andrew

Thanks for the tip, I have to say I know very little about different greases.  I'll check out harbor freight and pick up a few varieties.

[FunkyLaneO]

18 minutes ago, mataku527 said:

 

Is the crush washers part 12 in the picture above?  It's labeled as gasket ring.

 

 

Yup, not exactly a crush washer but a seal for the drain and fill. I seem to recall they were flat aluminum.

[Simeon]

Don't confuse the crush collar with the crush washers. The collar sets the preload of the pinion bearings when tightening and can be over tightened (the tricky part of replacing the pinion seal). The crush washers are the means of sealing the oil filler plugs.

[Zorac]

3 hours ago, mataku527 said:

Do you mean input seals?  I've read that is pretty difficult and since mine looks okay, I was not planning on doing it.   

Yes, I meant the input

[TobyB]

Quote

It's also not a bad practice to wipe on a thin layer of wheel bearing grease on the ID of each seal.

I did that for decades.  Now, instead, I use the gear oil that'll be inside the diff.  

I had seals that didn't seal as well as I'd hoped, and I attributed that to the grease

being too thick (and destructive) in the space between seal lips.  Since I changed to oil,

things have sealed better.

But that's just my anecdote.

 

As to the input, no, don't do it unless the nut's loose or it's leaking.

And do the side seals one at a time, IF you decide to pull the bearing carriers (you can do the seals without pulling the carriers)

That way you have no danger of getting shims mixed up!

I have never seen one of those o- rings leak, but that doesn't mean they can't.

 

hth

 

t

 

[mataku527]

Is there a way to check to see how soon I need to do my differential? I don't notice anything while driving and wanted to see how urgent of a job this is.  

[AceAndrew]

Well, as long as the bearings aren't screaming.... and you keep your diff oil topped off.

 

To answer your question, no, not with any certainty. 

[mataku527]

completed the job.. it took a lot longer than I expected.  Most of the time spent trying to break the frozen nuts and bolts!  Luckily I had access to a lift, transmission lift, impact wrench, otherwise I don't think I would have been able to complete the job in one day.  I didn't end up doing the side seals as they were not leaking AND the website that explained it all was down when I was trying to pull it up.  One of the CV boots had a tear on it.  All in all though, looking more at the car there is a decent amount of rust.  I'm not sure I'll be spending too much time fixing things unless it really needs to be done.