IE rear camber bolts WTF!?

[2joejoe2]

So, I'm rebuilding my rear suspension I ordered the IE rear camber and toe kit.....IE uses a BMW style bolt for the toe kit (bottom) and a custom bolt (top) for the camber kit.......... On the OEM style bolt the eccentric washer turns with the eccentric bolt.....While on the camber kit the eccentric washer is not keyed to turn with the bolt... I see this as a big problem. I was expecting the washer to have a D shaped hole with a flat spot milled in the bolt to keep the eccentric washer in alignment with the eccentric bolt. 

for a hundred bucks I would expect something a little better.....should of made my own.  

Is this normal?  If so how do you get the the washer and the bolt lined up? 

 

 I would call IE but they are closed and I want to know what you guys think 

 

Edited March 25, 2017 by 2joejoe2
Messed up picture ID

[TobyB]

That's to give you more camber.  The BMW bolt only gives you

a couple of degrees of adjustment.

I DID make my own, just that way, and it works fine.

Once you assemble it, the 'captive' washer welded to the

bolt head adjusts camber well enough- you can't loosen the nut

too much, or the washer gets loose from its channel, but it works.

 

I haven't had trouble with it slipping.  I HAVE knocked the toe loose,

but learned to torque it twice, very very tight.  (And to be honest, I was jumping the curb

on the inside of t7 at PIR when I knocked it loose)

 

hth

 

t

 

['76mintgrün'02]

I would like to make a set, when I refresh the rear subframe.

Thank you for the inspiration : ) 

[TobyB]

Tom, if you only want a couple of degrees, the factory 'slotted' bolt is a pretty nice bit of kit, for the roughly $10 a side it costs...

...but milling a small slot into a bolt and then milling the corresponding washer's not hard, either, just a bit time- consuming!

 

t

 

[2joejoe2]

So, Toby are you saying that you made yours so that the large eccentric washer is keyed to spin with the bolt? 

[JohnH]

I've been down this worm hole. The major problem using these camber plates is that they seriously compromise the trailing arm bushes. They change the pivot angles, which is okay for short term racing usage, but over a longer term the bushes will fail, particularly if the are poly bushes, as they have no give in them.

 

You really need to modify the trailing arm to use a rose joint or similar.

 

I found the best way forward was to use offset bushes for camber correction.

 

The toe correction is not so much of a problem as you are only twisting the outer bush a small amount.

[2joejoe2]

John.....I've wondered about that....the misalignment between the two pivot points does have to put a bit of stress on the bushings as well as the control arms

[JohnH]

Joe, heres someone elses solution;

 

 

(apologies to whomever I stole this image from)

 

Its a fantastic bit of work, but I cant see it lasting once salt and crap from the road get to work.

 

My feeling about this, is that one should sit down and work out what angles you want and them modify the subframe to keep the pivot angle uncompromised (use a length of rod to highlight the pivot angle) , and use the standard bolts and trailing arm with standard bushes. After all you only want to do this once, right?   

[2joejoe2]

Yeah thats a little intense for a street car.....and I dont feel like replacing rod ends every couple years.. I think I am going to weld on the camber tabs then install the trailing arm. I will adjust the camber to 3/4 of the way up its travel range and then I will see how misaligned the outer trailing arm mounts are.  The inside of the outer mount should be a little high....So I will weld that tab a little higher than the hole factory hole.....I am trying to achieve a straight line from the inside trailing arm mounts to the outside mounts  the 3/4 of the way up on the camber is kind of arbitrary but its approximately were I think I will be adjusting my camber to

 

Pictures to follow.

[TobyB]

Quote

So, Toby are you saying that you made yours so that the large eccentric washer is keyed to spin with the bolt? 

Nope, just did it like IE.

 

It works.

 

And yes, when you use something like this, you don't get all the adjustment because the bushings don't have that much deflection.

 

On a race car, I set it to the desired angle, align everything, then it's set up to not be in stress if I make small adjustments.

But the adjusters won't let it go all the way the other way...

 

t

 

[Mike_R]

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-suspension-steering/adjcmbkit-lock.html

 

About 6 years ago I purchased the full set and asked the same question about why the two eccentrics did not lock togeter .  Shortly after the "new" improved version came out. 

 

[Crumbod]

In the process of doing I.E. STAGE 1 springs and bilstein he shocks. Do I need to do something about camber?

[M3M3]

Both the eccentric and posilock style have been around for a long time.  I have used both.   Explicit detail on installing the posilock version in my build thread.  

 

Both cause the TA bolts to be off axis, binding up the suspension.   I would not use poly TA bushings with either.   Use stock rubber as it flexes and is more tolerant of the off axis bolt alignment. 

 

You need to recheck bolt torque regularly with both styles.  TA movement unscrews the bolt. 

[2joejoe2]

14 hours ago, Crumbod said:

In the process of doing I.E. STAGE 1 springs and bilstein he shocks. Do I need to do something about camber?

If you flip your sub frame mounts you will probably be good. Only reason Im doing the camber mods is because Im going pretty low and I had to pull out the sub frame to mod my trailing arms for coil overs....so why not.