for sale 1973 BMW 2002Tii in Lond Island, NY

[Mark92131]

Year:: 1973

Make:: BMW

Model:: 2002 Tii

Price:: 4500.00

Location: : Long Island, NY

I saw this ad on Craigslist and thought I would pass it along.  A 1973 BMW 2002Tii in Polaris over Navy.  Not too bad visible rust, except for rear passenger side wheel well, will need some TLC and paint.  On 320i basketweaves with recaro seats.  The engine has some leaks, but this looks like a steal for someone.

 

NM/NA,

 

 

 

Mark92131

 

 

http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/5234650333.html

 

 

 

[Mark92131]

Apparently gone, that didn't take long...  Anyone here get this one?

 

Mark92131

[james43]

Good word that went fast!

 

I hope a good guy got it...

[Drana16]

The person who bought it beat me too it. I it's minimal rust for an east coast car and a tii. The buyer got a steal!!! Easily worth 6-7k the way it was

[ttrousdell]

I saw the ad on craigslist the morning after it was posted and saw the seller that night. After about 2 hours checking out the car we decided on a price of 4500. It has its issues. There is rust but nothing too crazy. the engine runs well until it warms up then bucks and stalls. The car hasnt been registered since 04' and has experienced a lot of neglect. Im going to start working on it soon and planning for a full restore. Im a huge BMW enthusiest. Currently I own a very original E30 M3 and an e30 325is with an S14 swap. This is my first 2002 and im excited to bring her back.

Edited May 16, 2017 by ttrousdell

[ttrousdell]

f

From my post in R3vlimited, e30 forum

Got it about 2 miles down the road and then my troubles started. Car went from running well to bucking/loss of power. Fuel issue. The PO left no gas in the car so I figured it needed gas. Parked it next to this old merc and went to walmart to get a gas can and to the service station. Came back about 20 min later put the gas in and we were off again. Made it another 1/4 mile and then the same issues started. Slow loss of power till finally it didn't have enough balls to get above 1k rpm. Dying at idle.

Im thinking i should have taken it for a longer test drive last night instead of just a few rips in his neighborhood to make sure it goes through all gears.


Decided to call the tow.


After we got it off the tow truck i went to drive it again. Started  right up and idled great. Whipped it around the block a few times and  then the same issues stared. Gradual loss of power till it can barely  move. Too me it seems like its after it gets warmed up.



Happy intake boot.


Interior and trunk




interior





As far as rust, the pedal box is pretty rusty along with a small section of the drivers side frame. There are quarter size holes in some places of the trunk and on the rear and front valance. Nothing seems unmanageable tough.
In the mean time before the big stuff ill probably come back to the lot soon to try and clean out the fuel system and give it a tune up.

Tucked away in my uncle's lot.

Edited May 16, 2017 by ttrousdell

[Conserv]

No whining! That's a screamin' good deal even with the drivability issues!

Congratulations!

Steve

[ray_]

Likely the mesh screen in the tank is clogged with rust. Search the faq

 

Well bought!

 

Cheers,

[thehackmechanic]

Excellent buy -- beats my purchase of Old Blue ("what's my 73 tii worth?") that happened at the same time. But the car is going to need a systematic fuel system sort out. Here's the recipe. Don't skip any steps.

 

--Pull the pickup tube from the gas tank.

--Inspect the screen at the base of the pickup tube.

--Verify that both the outflow and return lines on the pickup tube aren't clogged (I've just seen three tiis with this problem). Ream then out with a coathanger and compressed air.

--Shine a flashlight in the gas tank and make sure it's not full of rust or sediment. I've seen them look like pot roast.

--Pull the fuel pump and inspect the conical screen at the inlet. It may be clogged or completely missing. 

--If the fuel filter inlet screen is missing, tap the inlet side out onto a paper towel. If rust and sediment come out, I'd recommend you replace the fuel pump.

--Disconnect the fuel filter to the left side of the radiator.

--With the fuel pump and fuel filter disconnected, blow the main fuel line out with compressed air into a bottle to catch what comes out. Inspect it. If there's massive amount of rust, blow brake cleaner into it and repeat until the rust is no longer visible when blown into a clean rag.

--Undo the return line from the back of the Kugelfisher pump.

--Do the same blowing out of the return line.

--Remove the pressure valve from the back of the Kugelfisher pump and visually inspect it, looking through it against a bright light. There should be a pinhole of light visible. If there's not, clean it with brake cleaner until there is.

--Pull the banjo bolt out of the front of the Kugelfisher pump and inspect the barrel-shaped screen inside it. I've spent hours removing and cleaning them.

--Reassemble everything, preferably replacing every fuel hose -- or at least every fuel hose that is too soft or rock-hard -- with OEM.

--Put a fuel pressure gauge just before the Kugelfisher pump. Turn on the ignition to run the fuel pump. It should read 29psi. 

--Inspect every part of the fuel delivery system for leaks.

--Start the car. Inspect the plastic injection lines carefully for leaks, both at the base of the lines at the Kugelfisher pump as well as in the lines themselves (they do crack with age). 

 

If the car still doesn't run right, follow the procedure in the "BMW 2002 Tii Injection Manual" to the letter to isolate the problem to the delivery valves, the suction valves, or the injectors. For a car that hasn't seen much use, I'd pull the injectors and send them out for cleaning and testing.

 

All that having been said, the symptoms you're describing are those of a classic clogged fuel filter or screen. But, still, I'd strongly recommend inspecting everything.

 

Good luck!

 

--Rob

Edited October 5, 2015 by thehackmechanic

[ray_]

I would have said all that. ^

 

But I type with 2 fingers.

 

[ttrousdell]

Awesome guys. I currently have it in a garage half hour a way but I will go see the car tomorrow or wed. Ill let you know if following the above I can get her running well.

[thehackmechanic]

Remember: "A car that feels like it's running out of gas, usually is." The "runs for a bit, then dies, then comes back if I wait, then does it again" is very consistent with crud getting pushed up against one (or all) of the filters/screens, then falling off when the car is shut off for a while, only to repeat the process over and over. Everyone with a tii has probably been through this. But remember, as others have said, that there is the one big filter, the small barrel-shaped screen at the front of the KFish pump, and possibly a third small conical screen in the inlet to the fuel pump. Any or all can be clogged.

[Beemeup]

Sure does sound like a fuel delivery issue. If all that ^ doesn't solve the problem, swap out your coil for a known good one. Heat can cause a coil to break down.

[brightINKA]

SHOCK TOWERS ARE SHOT- MAJOR WORK

[mossyoaks]

Your gas tank is most likely full of rust.

 

It collects in the fuel filter (the big one under the battery) and chokes the gas flow..

 

Will run fine for a few moments then gas is blocked and no more power.

 

You should pull the tanks and clean them out thoroughly before running the engine.  Replace all fuel lines and that filter too.

 

Looks like you have a nice roundie tii to play with AND at a bargain price!