engine and drivetrain gaskets and seals

[Zorac]

for the second time in 3 years i am replacing all the gaskets/seals on the transmission and diff.  it looks like my biggest issue was not sealing threads (particularly on the shift mount platform) and not putting loctite on splines (and having the oil follow the splines out).  the other leak was the transmission input gasket where it was thinnest at the bolts.  i had put all my seals in dry with a smear of moly grease on the lip where it met the shaft and did my gaskets with a very light smearing of dirko on both sides.

 

this might be a bit like asking which oil is best, but anyone have any suggestions?  new plan was for red loctite on on splines, smear of dirko on the outside of seals and moly grease on the inside lip, and a light smear (but heavier were bolts are this time) of dirko on both sides of gaskets (worked 2 out of 3 times last time).

 

lastly, ive been told the trans input gasket is only available through dealers now (unfortunately with dealer prices and dealer wait times), any thoughts on either making a new gasket or reusing my old gasket?  it came out in relatively good shape, the fact it was the leaking one concerns me though.  maybe use only dirko, be tough to get right around where the oil come in to the front of the bearing though.

[Buckeye]

How about torquing the bolts per bolt's grade, size specs and using star pattern.

[Zorac]

all were torqued as per the factory manual.  not much of a star pattern when there are only 3!  i usually go around, snug them all up first, then torque them all.

[Zorac]

preped the surfaces with a razor blade, the aluminum side isnt the greatest.  didnt want to wait for a new gasket (3 weeks from germany) so i bought some fel-pro 1/64 gasket paper and made my own, pretty happy with the way it turned out.  googled and read lots, and it seems my old one likely leaked because i used rtv on it, so i'm planning on inserting the new gasket dry.  my only concern is that the aluminum side on the transmission isn't the greatest to the point where the outside of the bolt holes are even a bit rounded (looks like it was made like that?).  any words of wisdom before i put it all together dry?

[TobyB]

Permatex gasket sealant is what I use for things like paper gaskets on water pumps

(where it seems like the gasket needs something extra to help it seal)

 

I've also used RTV on 'em, and haven't had an unusual leaking problem.

Like where a water pump surface is kind of corroded.

 

t

[Zorac]

like this?

 

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-ultra-rubber-gasket-sealant-dressing-detail

 

and avoid the products (rtv) that are meant to replace a paper gasket?  this is a real pain to get too, i'm paranoid ill end up with it leaking again!  i used dirko grey on the paper gasket last time and that didn't work well and general consensus is that i should of used rtv and the paper gasket at the same time.

[Zorac]

scratch that, can't get that around here, all that i can get the the aerosal permatex gasket tack

[peterschop]

scratch that, can't get that around here, all that i can get the the aerosal permatex gasket tack

 

Where are you located? Amazon has it

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Permatex%C2%AE+Ultra+Rubber+Gasket+Sealant+%26+Dressing&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3APermatex%C2%AE+Ultra+Rubber+Gasket+Sealant+%26+Dressing

[Zorac]

Canada.  amazon.ca doesn't list it.

Edited August 9, 2015 by Zorac

[jimk]

Do they list this:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-51813-Anaerobic-Gasket-Maker/dp/B0002UEONM/ref=sr_1_1?srs=2598395011&ie=UTF8&qid=1439148599&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex%C2%AE+anaerobic+gasket

Descr says for waterpumps.  I've used on pan gasket based on a well known transmission shop in Denve, who said it won't leak and is easy to take apart later.

[Zorac]

they have that, but too late now!  gasket in (dry) and tranny back in the car! just made sure everything was very clean. can't be any worse than before.