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Noisy brake


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Hi,

 

Since a couple of months there's some noise from my brakes while I'm not braking, as soon as I brake it's gone. I traced the noise down to the right front brake. Since it's a sort of on/off noice going faster with the speed of the car, I suspect the brake disk isn't 100% straight anymore. Problem is, the brake disks are replaced recently and haven't even done 10000km yet. I'm afraid replacing the disk will have my ending up in the same situation after a couple of months. Any ideas how I can stop the noise or solve this issue in another way?

 

I have already tried removing the sharp edges from the brake pads and disks with no result.

 

Thanks for your replies!

 

Laurent

BMW 1602 (1975) - 3978554 - Fjord Blue metallic with double Solex PHH40

BMW 3.0 CSi (1974) - 4340715 - Nightblue metallic

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Could it be the wheel bearing?

It's certainly the brake. When i took the pads out and turned the weel, the noise was gone. Also, I belive hitting the brakes wouldn't stop the noise if it was the bearing?

BMW 1602 (1975) - 3978554 - Fjord Blue metallic with double Solex PHH40

BMW 3.0 CSi (1974) - 4340715 - Nightblue metallic

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What kind of noise? Squealing? Scraping?

Is your caliper hitting the wheel. Some 3rd party wheels are not compatible with the stock calipers. Try hoisting the corner and spinning the wheel. Listen for interference. If you hear interference, remove the wheel to determine where it's touching. You can grind the corner of the caliper A LITTLE BIT.

Any pulling when you apply the brakes? Any heat in the wheel after a drive? Sticking caliper piston?

Edited by PaulTWinterton

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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 Also, I belive hitting the brakes wouldn't stop the noise if it was the bearing?

 

Actually yes it does. Takes some of the excess play off hence no noise.

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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What kind of noise? Squealing? Scraping?

Is your caliper hitting the wheel. Some 3rd party wheels are not compatible with the stock calipers. Try hoisting the corner and spinning the wheel. Listen for interference. If you hear interference, remove the wheel to determine where it's touching. You can grind the corner of the caliper A LITTLE BIT.

Any pulling when you apply the brakes? Any heat in the wheel after a drive? Sticking caliper piston?

 

It's a squealing noise. The caliper is not hitting the wheel (I have the E21 alpina style 13" wheels, they have enough clearance) since the noise was also present when I removed the wheel and turned the brake disk manually.

 

The car is pulling to the left a very little bit (barely noticeable), but both calipers are coming out nicely. The calipers have been renewed 2 years ago, the disks about 1 year ago.

 

 

Actually yes it does. Takes some of the excess play off hence no noise.

 

 

Okay, didn't realize that. How can I check if it's the bearing?

BMW 1602 (1975) - 3978554 - Fjord Blue metallic with double Solex PHH40

BMW 3.0 CSi (1974) - 4340715 - Nightblue metallic

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 How can I check if it's the bearing?

 

Jack the front up on a jack stands. Grap the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and twist. There should be next to non play. Tightening the nut cures it but if the bearings are gone this is not going to get you very far. By removing the hub allows you to inspect outer bearing race - sign of worn - replace. Struts upper bearing / loose damper securing nut gives play too so take that in account when twisting the wheel.

 

hth

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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The other thing- it could be the pads.  Some pads make noises, and not always consistently- as in,

it might do it on one side and not the other, especially if they're not bedded in the same.

 

Here's something fun to try- go use them good and hard.  Lots of 120-60 km/h 'stops', hard braking

followed by aggressive acceleration.  In other words, go drive a favorite road, hard.  Have fun!

 

Then take a look- and feel- and see if one side's hotter or dustier than the other.  And look at the

rotor surface- sometimes a rotor will 'pick up' material from the pads unevenly, and it makes noise

and pulls.  And recent hard use will help show up anything unusual side to side, too.

 

Might not help, but you'll have fun 'diagnosing' your car!

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I've never been so thrilled to try out some advice! :D

I don't remember remarkably more dust on one of the wheels (just washed it) but it might be possible.

Would swapping the pads from the left wheel with these from the right wheel be a possible fix if that's the case?

@Tzei I will be checking the bearings as well asap, thanks!

BMW 1602 (1975) - 3978554 - Fjord Blue metallic with double Solex PHH40

BMW 3.0 CSi (1974) - 4340715 - Nightblue metallic

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Best not to switch the pads- they conform to the irregularities of a particular rotor, and that's where they'll be most efficient.  UNLESS something's wrong...

 

hth

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Yes, actually, it should, especially if you use a different compound.

If you really think it's that, it's always a good idea to scuff the surface

of the rotor lightly with something abrasive- helps bed the new pads.

 

hth

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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