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Everything posted by Laurent1602

  1. Laurent1602


  2. Okay, thanks! And the thing on the picture, is that a sort of valve?
  3. Hi, I rebuilt my brake master cilinder but I guess that was not the best option... When bleeding the brakes it started leaking heavily between the cilinder and the booster. Luckily I was not driving my car already! A new brake master cilinder is ordered now. Problem is, there has been some brake fluid in the booster. I cleaned it out with some hot soapy water after reading that brake fluid would cause the membrane in the booster to fail. All has gone well but now I noticed this in the membrane, is this normal?
  4. I couldn't find a MikeS in my street, so I bought 'the right tool' and it was a matter of minutes now, pretty easy indeed! Thanks for the help! I'm now also removing the clutch master cilinder and rebuilding the brake master cilinder and then I should again be ready to drive
  5. Oops, I didn't see the circlip! How can I remove that best? And after that, does the slave slide out forward (to the engine) of backwards? Because backwards doesn't seem to be possible to me, I can't compress it enough and all fluid is already bleeded.
  6. The problem has become worse, until I couldn't keep the clutch in for more then a couple of seconds. Definitely a leak. It turns out that the slave cilinder is leaking, but I can't get it out! I want to get it out in the direction of the green arrow, but to do that I of course have to remove the other end from the linkage with the clutch (red arrow) but I can't get it out. I can push it far enough backwards, but it doesn't bend enough to get it past the linkage. What am I doing wrong?
  7. Well, I have no idea how long ago the master and slave cilinder have been overhauled. I own the car for a little over three years now and except fluid changes I never really bothered about the clutch so it would absolutely make sense to be wear of the sealings. The brakes and brake hoses however have been completely renewed so no worries there. I'll just see how it goes now as I don't have the time to do much on my car for the coming weeks. If it's going to be a recurring problem I'll probably renew all cilinders and the brake master cilinder as well, as that is the only part of the braking system that's not yet replaced. Thanks for the nice and informative write up!
  8. I agree with your explanation but this doesn't seem to be the case here. It first happened when I was on a drive (after 10km or so) and when I started it today (so when it was cold) it felt soft. I'm really wondering what it could be... For now I'll just see if it happens again.
  9. There you say it... I have a one piece carpet, damn Just checked it, everything is fine, no fluid! And now the mindblowing part (at least for me). I just started the car to put it back in the garage, and the clutch felt normal again. Another thing I suspected was that it was engaging a lot earlier when it felt soft, that too was again gone. Very strange sice I drove the car today for 60km without any improvement.
  10. Well, since it's that simple I'm out to check it right now!
  11. Thanks for the long and complete reply! My apologies for the short opening post, I was quickly typing it before I had to leave which is never a good idea. The car has had no recent work to the clutch or braking system. The fluid was last replaced last year. My clutch is using hydraulics indeed. I have checked the fluid level again today after standing still a couple of days in the garage now and it's still perfectly at the same level and no hydraulic fluid underneath the car. Because it started so sudden, I don't expect the problem being a swollen hose and pumping multiple times also doesn't make any difference. A broken pressure plate spring could definitely be the problem, is there a way to check that without having to take the clutch out of the car? That was the first thing that came on my mind as well, but unlike the E9 I can't see the springs under the pedals. The pedal box is only accessible from underneath the car I believe?
  12. Hi My clutch started feeling very soft suddenly while driving. It almost needs no force but still works perfectly! There's no loss of brake fluid neither, reservoir is still topped up. This makes me believe there's no leak but I'm still puzzled what it could be... Thanks for you replies!
  13. So suppose it's the pads, should just replacing them fix the problem?
  14. I've never been so thrilled to try out some advice! I don't remember remarkably more dust on one of the wheels (just washed it) but it might be possible. Would swapping the pads from the left wheel with these from the right wheel be a possible fix if that's the case? @Tzei I will be checking the bearings as well asap, thanks!
  15. It's a squealing noise. The caliper is not hitting the wheel (I have the E21 alpina style 13" wheels, they have enough clearance) since the noise was also present when I removed the wheel and turned the brake disk manually. The car is pulling to the left a very little bit (barely noticeable), but both calipers are coming out nicely. The calipers have been renewed 2 years ago, the disks about 1 year ago. Okay, didn't realize that. How can I check if it's the bearing?
  16. It's certainly the brake. When i took the pads out and turned the weel, the noise was gone. Also, I belive hitting the brakes wouldn't stop the noise if it was the bearing?
  17. Hi, Since a couple of months there's some noise from my brakes while I'm not braking, as soon as I brake it's gone. I traced the noise down to the right front brake. Since it's a sort of on/off noice going faster with the speed of the car, I suspect the brake disk isn't 100% straight anymore. Problem is, the brake disks are replaced recently and haven't even done 10000km yet. I'm afraid replacing the disk will have my ending up in the same situation after a couple of months. Any ideas how I can stop the noise or solve this issue in another way? I have already tried removing the sharp edges from the brake pads and disks with no result. Thanks for your replies! Laurent
  18. I could do that for you, but what difference would it make? If the package I send you is checked you will have to pay import duties I'm afraid...
  19. They're probably allowed to sell, hower US people risk to have to pay import duties I think... Inside EU no duties of course!
  20. That's pretty much the only option indeed... Do you have an idea which kind of damper I could use? I have no idea where I could find such a thing. Yes, but does IE have a manifold for 1600? These have smaller intake ports on the cilinder head.
  21. Well, mine are PHH and no DCOE and afaik I have no vacuum on the carbs. I also don't want to tap the manifold because the sidedraft manifolds for 1600 are very hard to find in original condition. On the other hand, I don't have any problem with my current setup without vacuum and the 123. Should I add vacuum to the 123 with these spacers?
  22. Great topic! As Zinz mentioned, I have an 123 as well. Why not share my experience with it? I bought mine in august, and installed the 123 with a curve from another 02 enthousiast (posted by Zinz a couple of posts earlier). Never changed much about it as the car was going great with this setting and no static advance. Dyno resulted in 90hp with a stock 1600 motor with dual Solex carbs, everything ajusted as it should. Not bad at all so I wasn't triggered to change much. When Zinz asked about my experiences with the 123 we started brainstorming about things to try out, just by talking about the settings we had, and things we might have to try out. Since then my car has improved quite a bit. To keep the long story short, static advance is now at 10°, but I retarded the curve by 2-3° above 4000rpm as the car was running hot when I kept driving at approx 5000-5500rpm in fourth gear (did that on a safe, wide, straight, empty road for testing purposes only, of course). I tested the curve and static advance settings (and a lot of others as well) with the tuning tool included in the 123 software. I always used the same piece of road and did multiple measurements in both directions with the same settings, and then took the average (pretty scientific right?). I haven't put the car on the dyno since then, but I really feel the car is driving at its best now, compared with before the 123, well, it's a whole different car actually! If there's anyone doubting about an 123 out there, just order the thing right now!
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