body and interior Oil-based Touch-up Paint Availability in the US?

[PaulTWinterton]

I want a quart of touch-up, brush-on,  oil-based Inka (paint code 022 or 202) paint.  Nice to have for those hard to reach areas. 

 

Auto paint suppliers in Canada will mix up 2-stage paint in containers or acrylic/varathane in aerosol.  They no longer offer oil-based paints, except in aerosol cans. 

 

Are there auto paint or custom paint retailers in Washington state (or elsewhere in the US) that will mix up custom color brush-on oil-based paints in quarts or pints?

[esty]

if you have a lowe's there, they sell a urethane porch paint that's kick ass and they will color match it for you...you can also buy an additive that helps eliminate brush and roller strokes...or most paint stores sell urethane paint and can do the same thing

 

i buy it at lowe's because it's a good product and less expensive than buying at a paint store...cost is about $30.00 for a gallon...i used it in the trunk of 2 cars and when dried looks as good as if i'd sprayed real auto paint

[PaulTWinterton]

Esty!  That is great news!  The US border is 40 miles away.  I'm sure there's a Lowe's not much further than that.

 

Just hoping they can do a good Inka match.

 

Not too long ago I could purchase those paints in Canada.  Not anymore.  New environmental laws.

 

Thanks.

Edited March 29, 2015 by PaulTWinterton

[esty]

just be sure to get the high gloss if you want it to shine like auto paint...Home Depot also carry's the same kind of paint, just with a different label/name

 

here's a picture of the lowe's brand and the other stuff you can mix with it

 

 

 

[nbcbird]

Paul--Don't know why you need a quart for touch-up.  Wesco Autobody Supply sells the major brands: PPG, Dupont, Glasurit (solvent based paints are still available in Washington).  There's one in Bellingham.  Imagine the price could be $150-200 for a quart considering you will also need a catalyst.  I thought you were painting your 2002 tho, not your porch.

Edited March 29, 2015 by nbcbird

[Tulah007]

Paul--Don't know why you need a quart for touch-up. Wesco Autobody Supply sells the major brands: PPG, Dupont, Glasurit (solvent based paints are still available in Washington). There's one in Bellingham. Imagine the price could be $150-200 for a quart considering you will also need a catalyst. I thought you were painting your 2002 tho, not your porch.

Paul--Don't know why you need a quart for touch-up. Wesco Autobody Supply sells the major brands: PPG, Dupont, Glasurit (solvent based paints are still available in Washington). There's one in Bellingham. Imagine the price could be $150-200 for a quart considering you will also need a catalyst. I thought you were painting your 2002 tho, not your porch.

Lmao.

I'm a Autobody tech so I'd never apply that kinda paint either.

But as the saying goes "to each his own"

You can order supplies online from some vendors like autobodytoolmart , Eastwood , ETC.

Or you can hit eBay a seller named wmbsq sells DuPont and ppg. Be sure to buy the small tip paint applicators as well for a "seamless" repair.

Older BMW double digit paint codes are very difficult to find.

It took me over a month to find a vendor to mix atlantik (blue) correctly . I ended up having it done in Nason , which I wasn't happy with but I took the extra mile of prep work and used a SPI universal clear and it turned out really nice.

Best of luck.

Edited March 29, 2015 by Tulah007

[esty]

you guys kill me....to use an automotive paint, you have to pay huge bucks for paint and it doesn't stop there, you have to buy activators, reducers and a host of other prep tools and products to spray it...if you want to paint a trunk, do it yourself and don't have the equipment or know how to spray automotive paint why does something that's labeled something different not work for some applications on a car...

 

i'll guarantee either of you naysayers that if you saw the paint in trunk of my 76 and in my 74 that you would never know that i applied it with a brush and roller...never

 

you guy keep wasting the big bucks for little alligators embroidered your shirt collar and stop discouraging alternative methods & products for us practical folks

 

fwiw. urethane paint, whether labeled automotive or porch is urethane paint, the toughest & best available...do a little research before you buy your next shirt 

[TobyB]

I think this is a case of the right shoe for the right application.

 

I've gone (very far) both roads, and there's a time for each.

If you KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, it doesn't make sense to

spend the hundreds of hours of prep to do a concours shell and

then roll it with Rust-o-leum.

Likewise, if you ASPIRE to do concours work for the rest of your life,

don't master the fine art of Rust-o-loom.  There are inexpensive

products that will train you (mostly) in how not to apply proper auto body paint.

 

However, if you have a car you love, a paint job that's NOT worthy of Pebble Bitch,

you don't have a fully- equipped spray booth (or even an inside garage) and you

just want it to look 95%  better for 25% of the effort, there are a LOT of ways to go about

things.  Including the abovementioned cheap on- line paint.  I spent $300 for enough to do

the race car, inside and out, and it's darned near good enough for anything.  It's certainly

good for a daily driver spruce- up or a race car.   But I wouldn't use it to do a bare- metal respray

on a Jag XK120...

 

It all works.  And the results are almost always directly dependant upon the skill and diligence of the

nut behind the sandling block and roller....

 

t

who was never really happy with rust-o-leum's gloss, but it's holding up great on the tractor...

[esty]

when i suggest something like the paint, i was answering Paul's question, he specifically asked about buying that type material...i assumed he's not doing a full respray...he qualified the use of the stuff by saying he was using in "those hard to reach areas"...for which it works very well

 

i do understand snob appeal of high priced, snooty named stuff...they affords certain bragging rights and i absolutely know the importance of doing things the right way but touching up a booboo in the trunk, under the spare tireor painting inner fenders or other places out of sight & mind does not require that anyone buy a $200.00 quart of paint, a $50.00 bottle of reducer, a $50.00 can of activator and break out the masking tape, respirator mask and air up the compressor

[M3M3]

Paul--Don't know why you need a quart for touch-up.

Lol. Agree. If you need a quart, It is far, far beyond a touch up job!

[PaulTWinterton]

I'm with Esty

 

Ok, maybe a quart would last me a lifetime...but currently I need to reach down into the lower nose of the car and a spray gun is not going to happen in my situation.  There are spots where the factory paint didn't cover much anyway.  I also have a couple of spots UNDER the car (below the rad for example) that also needs a good cleaning, prepping, POR 15, and Inka topcoat coverage to keep surface rust at bay.

 

I would never touch the outside of the car with anything less than a professional job, but it doesn't make any sense to me to throw a lot of money, not to mention DIY learning curve, at areas only seen by me.

 

Hey, if this was a ground-up restoration, I'd get the car on a rotisserie and have a pro job done all at once.  I'll let the next guy that owns my car do that.  I'll just make sure that I keep the car clean, and rust free, in the meantime (probably the next 10 years).

 

Seriously...my biggest concern is getting a good Inka code 22 (or 202) color match.  I'm not sure that a "building supply" store can do that ACCURATELY.  I'll take a sample Inka part from my car for matching, and hope. I WILL NOT put a mismatched color in or under my car.

 

See...I'm still a fanatic, but Urethane rocks!

Edited March 30, 2015 by PaulTWinterton

[stricht8]

The only issue I have with using an alkyd based urethane paint is that if, in the future, one wants to repaint the trunk, the automotive paint will be incompatible with the oil paint. This will necessitate the complete removal of the old paint.

[esty]

The only issue I have with using an alkyd based urethane paint is that if, in the future, one wants to repaint the trunk, the automotive paint will be incompatible with the oil paint. This will necessitate the complete removal of the old paint.

although some that you'll find in the home center type stores are...the paints i discussed are not not alkyd based & once cured, with light sanding can be painted over...at least with acrylic enamel and acrylic urethane automotive paint...been there, done it

[stricht8]

Well as long as they can be painted over then sure why not.

Where is this paint available? I've never seen a porch and floor paint that was urethane based. I've seen alkyd based but urethane fortified. Guess I have investigating to do!

[TobyB]

The other thing about the pricey shit is its finite shelf life.  As in, when you need it again in a couple of years, you find it's dead....

 

For out- of- sight things in boring colors, I like the Rustoleum "pro" rattlecans- the material's a bit better, it goes on a bit better, and holds up ok.

 

Hammerite was really good a long time ago, but it's pricey, doesn't cover for crap, and recently, hasn't been as good as I remember...

 

t