Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Squealing From Motor


paulram

Recommended Posts

I cut the belt on my air pump today (removing it as soon as I can fit in the garage). I assumed the squeal I heard when giving it gas would be gone.  It is not.  I checked the alternator belt and it is snug.  What else could cause that whining?  I don't hear it when I gas the motor by hand at the carb, only when the motor starts pulling (2500 RPM +).  It definitely sounds like a squeaky belt.

 

Thanks.

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How old & condition of that belt?

Take the belt temporarily off and try to rev the engine. Do you hear the noise?

Try with new belt again. If squeal sound persist, then I would think suspect is water pimp, alternator or even worn out water pimp pulley

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try spraying some WD40 on the belt and pulleys. If that stops the squealing (temporarily) then it is your belt.

Check the belt is running in the correct v on each pulley and is aligned on the same plane.

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it a squeal or high pitched whine? My car had a high pitched whine that got REALLY loud. I thought the engine was going bad it was so loud. It surfaced after a 800 mile road trip so I thought I pushed it too hard. Checked oil pressure with a gauge. All fluids. All gauges were normal and power was normal. Sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and still no change. Finally found it when a rag was placed near the carb and the sound muffled. It was the throttle shaft on the carb letting in air and "whistling" loudly. May not be the sound but if you can't find a bad belt then try that.

1976 BMW 2002 Fjord Blue Ireland Stage II • Bilstein Sports • Ireland Headers • Weber 38 • 292 Cam • 9.5:1 Pistons • 123Tune Bluetooth 15" BBS

2018 BMW M550i X-Drive

1964 Volvo Amazon Wagon
http://www.project2002.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cut the second belt to the air pump as it was loose and worn.  I had already replaced the alternator/fan belt with a brand new belt and it is tight.  I can spray the belt to see if it goes away.  If not is it best practice to just replace the water pump anyway?  Is there any way to diagnose high pitched squealing in an alternator or water pump?

 

Again, I don't hear it when i throttle the car by hand, only driving.  Maybe it is something else.

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is not the belt, check the alternator bushings, they tend to wear out over time and make a tremendous racket! There are urethane version that are much better than stock.

The question is not that we broke a few rules or took certain liberties with our female guests.

We did ;)

Charlie don't surf!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not touch the water pump without good reason.  Frequently the bolts holding it on are rusted very tightly to the block, and snap when you try to remove them.

 

Now, a good reason would exist if the pump were leaking.  To check, get your head under the car, preferably with engine warm and idling, hand brake set, and look up at the underside of the water pump.  There is a hole under the pump body leading forward to the fan, a scant 1/8 inch in diameter.  If there is coolant dripping from the hole, your pump is well on its way to hell.  If there is a drop of water, it's still coolant, and your pump is telling you to program a pump R&R.  Pumps are about, what, $45, and should be readily available from all the usual suspects.

 

As stated above, the work is in carefully removing the bolts without snapping one or more.  I get a 6mm tap and clean the hole threads, run the bolts on the wire wheel if I don't replace them, and use plenty antisieze in the holes so the next time (yes there will be a next time) the bolts will come out without snapping.

 

The other possibility for squealing is that although the alternator belt feels tight, we don't know what your definition of "tight" is.  2002s like to use engine compartment heat to slowly degrade the alternator mounting bushings, then the alternator is slightly but visibly out of alignment with the other pulleys and the belt will squeal although it feels tight.  You have to look at the alternator and other pulleys carefully and assess whether they are in alignment.  If not, "all the usual suspects" will sell you urethane alternator bushings which are supposed to never degrade.  Many 02s have these already, they are commonly red in color vs the black rubber originals.  Other colors could occur.

Edited by Honolulu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Sorry to revive an old topic, but I just went through a really similar issue and finally have some resolution. After reading jrhone's post above, I was able to track the sound down to my carb (I had already spent a week going through my belt, alternator, distributor, etc. etc...)

 

Turns out in my case, the entire carb was loose, just floating on the gasket where it mounts to the manifold! *d'oh*. Previous owner either didn't torque it down when it was installed, or it worked its way loose, but I could easily move the entire thing side to side. It was making a terrible cyclic squealing sound as it sucked air through the gap. I tightened the mounting bolts and viola! No more noise.

 

Something very simple to check and very simple to fix, before you start digging into waterpumps, etc... FYI for future squeal hunters!

Edited by echrisman

'71 2002 AX/street project in progress

'11 VW GTI daily driver / 02 parts hauler

'91 525i (gone but not forgotten)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...