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Timing Cover Stuck


sirius815

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Hi guys. I'm trying to take care of the timing cover gaskets and have a bit of a problem - well two actually.

1) This is my first '02 and when I took the water pump off, I thought nothing of the two studs that are left in the block (through the timing cover) - after looking through many threads, etc...I cannot find any picture or mention of having two studs for the water pump. Even realoem says that 3 90mm M8 bolts are to be used - no studs.

This could lead to problem #2

2) The lower timing cover is completely stuck on there. How in the world can I get it off without damaging the head and oil pan gaskets?

Thanks,

Ben K.

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You probably won't be able to leave both undamaged and by the time your so careful not to damage the other you might have considered pulling the engine. With the head bolted down and the pan on, the lower timing cover is sandwiched.

Sorry.

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Well, I'd try to pull the studs first. If you're lucky, someone

just got clever on reassembly. If you're unlucky, they were repairing

prior damage...

The front lower chain cover has a pair of sleeves that

locate it to the block, so the studs aren't necessary.

And in fact, it's usually pretty securely on there without the studs...

You CAN pull that cover if you want- you end up having to figure

a way to reseal the oil pan and upper cover, but cutting a part of a

pan gasket, and regluing the head gasket with RTV works fine.

Life before RTV must have sucked...

Before you go after the lower cover, though, make sure it's really leaking-

the upper cover's a lot harder to seal, and anything from up there

can look like a lower cover leak.

hth

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Hi,

the front cover actually is not pinched by the oil pan and the

cylinder head. actually you can remove the valve cover and

then the upper timing cover. then you need to remove the timing

chain tensioner. the three bolts in the oil pan that go into the

lower cover are next. now about the two studs, they are from

an old style A/C pump bracket. once you have the water pump

off you can use a stud remover or you can double nut the stud

and slowly turn them out. if you don't have A/C then get two

replacement bolts instead of the studs. any way all the front

bolts from the cover need to come out to remove the lower

cover. so, if you use a razor knife along the full lengths of both

sides, the cover will come off. try very hard not to damage the

head gasket and the pan gasket, and they can both be permatexed

and reused.

good luck this is a very tedious task.

let us know the outcome.

stone

stone racing co

phila pa 19123

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I do feel that it's the two studs that are holding the cover on. I can see some light through the driver's side portion when I put pressure on the cover. The car is an ex-A/C car so that solves that mystery. I just tried the double nut method with no luck.

I'll let them soak in some PB blaster, however I'm not sure how far it will penetrate.

I'll likely pick up a Stud Puller/Extractor from Northern Tool tomorrow.

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Although many people on here use PB Blaster (probably because it's readably available), there are better penetrants out there. Both Kano Labs Aerokroil and Wurth RostOff will do a much better job of helping get something like your stuck studs removed, as actual tests have shown.

There is a mixture that Mike Self posted on here sometime ago, along with the above mentioned test results, that was even better still, but I don't remember the home-mixture shown in the results. I mixed some up at the time but it ate through an old oil bottle and I ended up discarding it.

Here's a link to one source for AeroKroil:

http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-cleaning/bore-cleaners-amp-lubricants/lubricants/grease/kroil-10oz-aerosol--sku749002099-33878-65923.aspx?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=pricegrabber&mc_id=s8004&gdftrk=gdfV21820_a_7c291_a_7c1020_a_7c749002099_d_749002099_d_5543

Bob Napier

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You're not going to reuse the studs-

time for the vice- grips. Put them on stupid tight, and wiggle.

Twist, mostly, back and forth, but also let them put some side load on it.

If you've got it loosened to where it's only the studs, odds are

they've corroded in there. Wiggling, penetrant, heat, and lots

more wiggling will do the best job of breaking the studs loose

from the cover.... but it's a tough one. Aluminum oxide's really

a tough substance- far harder than aluminum.

hth.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Alrighty - got one out using the double nut method - but I think having the sit with PB blaster all night was a plus.

I attempted it on the second one, however I couldn't get the second nut tightened down and began seriously straining the threads. I stopped before I eff'd up the bolt entirely.

I then attempted the locking pliers, however the set I have is just a bit too large and won't grip the bolt well. So I'll have to end up getting a stud remover after all just for the sake of attempting to save the oil and head gaskets. I'll keep you guys posted.

Ben K.

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