1972 Riviera M2 Build

[02tom]

Had some unseasonably cool weather today (and for the entire week according to the forecast) and decided to try to get some more done on rust proofing the rest of the car.  At least until I started, I thought I could just shoot the 3M Rust fighter and be done with it.  When cleaning up around the rear subframe I was cleaning with a wet rag and blowing things out with compressed air just to try to minimize the amount of trapped dirt inside of the rear subframe, trailing arms and any thing else I may come across.  Well, I was really surprised when I start blowing out chunks of dirt and pea gravel from the subframe mounts.  The dirt was rust colored so after investigating further, found the source of the dirt.  I had thought that I'd been through everything the first time I cleaned the underside of the car, and I knew that I had not driven the car that much to have that much accumulation anywhere.  So what it was was the box around the rear subframe mounting bolts never had got blown out sufficiently probably because of lack of proper tools the first time I went though the car.

 

Soooo, now I've used POR-15 metal ready prep and will have to wait for things to dry out before proceeding, but I'm glad to have found this because of how big of a problem it can become if not treated.  After seeing this, I'm wondering if there's any reason that you couldn't put a rectangular plug in the hole to keep things clean, as I don't think the opening is necessary for drainage?

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[02tom]

Okay, one last picture of rust proofing before I move on, since I was able to wrap up the rust proofing today.  With a whole week of unseasonably cooler record setting temperatures, I thought I'd better get this done, before the miserable heat returns. 

 

I'd forgotten the access holes for the shock towers, and thought it may help someone at some point.  Of course, the more time you spend doing this type of work on the car, the more places you see to treat.  I couldn't figure out any way to treat the B Pillars, but I'm satisfied with the areas I was able to treat. 

 

With the heater box still out and the windshield wipers completely removed, I was able to see how much rust proofing was needed in that area - especially under the windshield.  In addition to the empty space of the fuse box area (on both sides), there's empty space up under the windshield and on either side of the cowl opening area that was in need of some preventive maintenance.

 

At any rate, with this out of the way, I'm ready to start putting the car back together again

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[oh2ryan]

Nice work on all the rust proofing. Im doing the same thing right now with my 2002 since everything is disassembled. I love the color of your car btw, it looks great.

[02tom]

Thanks, Ryan.  I've looked at your build a few times and it looks like you're starting with a great car to work with.  Any rust preventative is always a good idea, and absolutely necessary for the humidity around here.

 

It looks like we've got the same rear shock tower/battery holder.  I just drilled the holes for mine and  POR-15'd them.  Will have to wait on the grey vinyl material to get here before I can put it all in. 

 

Aside from that, I'm concentrating on the fuel system right now and will make a second attempt on running the stainless lines in a couple of weeks.  The first line I bent, the 90 degree bends behind the frame rail were too tight and slightly crimped the line, so I'm not taking any chances and redoing it.  I also found a better tool for bending the lines - it's like a pair of pliers that are specifically made for 4 sizes - 5/16 line being one of them - made by Grand Rapids Industrial Products 81050.  Much better than hand bending like I was trying to do with the generic aluminum tube bender.  We'll see how it goes though...

[M3M3]

any updates Tom?

[oh2ryan]

flywheel..that thing is the trigger for the flywheel sensors.  my sensor is shimmed out to clear also.  btw, you only need one of the sensors.  if you trace the wiring for them, the other sensor just goes to the diagnostic plug.

 

Marshall, can you elaborate on this a little more? Or Tom if you have some information on these flywheel sensors. I dont mean to bring up an old post but I just now arrived to fitting some sensors on my M2 and was reading through some S14 builds in my spare time. Will a CEL ever be triggered by the computer if only 1 flywheel sensor is used? I ask only because one swap guide I have says "both sensor are required".

 

How did your fuel system come out Tom?

Edited November 1, 2014 by RCM3

[02tom]

 

Thanks for asking Marshall, I've been way to busy with work for awhile, but I make some progress when I can.  Not many pictures to show for what I've done lately

 

The rear brace and battery holder - along with the grey vinyl material under it - was fairly simple and easy to do with what time I've had.  It was a tight fit, but I think it's a good addition to the car, along with the '95 740iL ground cable.  I just bought some sound deadening material, and should be able to run the e30 battery cable soon after getting the floor covered.

 

I have everything to run the fuel line again, but have been mulling it over since it's such a tight corner of the engine bay where the pedal box is.  I need to be careful that things aren't so tightly packed in there that the lines have any opportunity to rub on something and rub through the line over time.  I have bought another fuel filler (Fuel Safe FS-FV290A-C) with a smaller diameter 4.75" bolt circle and had a backing plate made for it while drilling out the tank (doesn't show in the picture).  The other fuel filler was just a little too big and there's no way it would have laid down flat against the tank.  I'm still looking for an appropriate 2" vent and ventilation / carbon canister components.

 

The door glass is in and the passenger side door went together flawlessly, and works well.  The driver's side needs some attention and I'm hoping it will adjust out.  Right now, the window is binding when changing directions and I'm going to have to glue the felt in because the metal clip alone isn't holding it in place.  One last adjustment to the door latch on the passenger side door and I think I can call that side done!

 

Ryan, I'm afraid that I'm not going to be much help on the wiring yet, though my first thought after reading Marshall's earlier response, was just to leave the diagnostic port in the harness.  I haven't put any thought or research into that choice since then though...

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[M3M3]

Marshall, can you elaborate on this a little more? Or Tom if you have some information on these flywheel sensors. I dont mean to bring up an old post but I just now arrived to fitting some sensors on my M2 and was reading through some S14 builds in my spare time. Will a CEL ever be triggered by the computer if only 1 flywheel sensor is used? I ask only because one swap guide I have says "both sensor are required".

 

How did your fuel system come out Tom?

s14's will not thow a cel.  the ecu does not have diagnostics.  i did not notice this until i had put a bunch effort into accommodating the diagnostics port.  in reality, the diag port on the s14 harness does nothing more than the diag port on an M10 does.  if you trace the wiring diagrams for the s14, you will find that the second sensor is only wired to the diag port, nothing else.

[02tom]

 

Finally had a day off again and started to think about getting back on the '02, but with the "Polar Vortex" on the way and it being about time to start thinking about the possibilities of what winter may bring, I finally put another limited slip in my eta.  Took too much of the day just to get this done, so once again the '02 will have to wait....

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[02tom]

 

After much deliberation, I've decided that I'm going to run the fuel lines on the outside of the frame rail, instead of inside like the original stainless line.  The lines will enter the engine bay the same way that they are on an E28.  This will hopefully free up space around the pedal box's crowded corner, nor will it have the fuel line near the front of the frame rail.  Attached image shows the E28 fuel lines in the front wheel well

 

I'm also making slow progress on panel and trim alignment, which has been a much bigger challenge with all the imperfections from previous accident repairs.  The windows are all in, and functioning well.  The driver's side doors has been a challenge but I'm closing in on moving on from it at this point.  Everything fell into place after a couple of days of trial and error with a dremel, trying to get the door to latch 1/8 inch tighter.  Finally got it to latch as tight as the passenger side and will disassemble and touch up the exposed metal.

 

The front bumper is on, and I'm hoping that the rear bumper will be less of a challenge.  The stainless bumpers have not been an easy bolt on, but there's too many problems with this car's unibody to put the blame entirely on the bumpers.  I've given up on the car being perfect a long time ago, and I can only imagine even the highest quality restoration work results in a less than perfect result, but a car that could pass for perfect unless you were the builder.

 

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[02tom]

Spent most of a morning assembling and massaging the rear bumper together. That progress along with getting some of the wiring cleaned and the hole drilled in the rear panel, I'm getting close to be able to install it.

While doing some of the wiring clean up, I decided I'd better get the fuse box cleaned up. Very nice write up from Rocan: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/159997-fuse-box-restoration-guide/ I use the salt and vinegar, but used it in a Harbor Freight jewelry cleaner. Going one step further, I also used some paint stripper for flexible plastic from a brand called Aircraft. Although it can eat some types of plastic - it's made for the plastic front panels on newer cars - it works well with all the plastic parts I've used it on on the '02. Ironically, there's a warning that states "Do not use on Aircraft" 

 

I did the parking brake lever bearing conversion today since it was sitting there in my way of getting the sound deadener in. Thought it better to do it now than to loose track of it again. Spent hours one day just trying to figure out where I had stashed it... I noticed that I'd had the Williamggruff ( http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/130871-handbrake-upgrade-kits-25-shipped/ ) brake lever bearing kit since 2010 when I was throwing away the packaging. One tip that I've finally figured out that can save some time is to use a zip tie to hold the small pivoting arm to keep it from spinning far enough to release the rod runs though the handle from the button in the grip of the handle. Hard to explain but hopefully the picture will help someone. After I found the link to the bearing kit, I see using some electric tape on the handle works too, instead of my zip tie idea.  Nonetheless, great upgrade for those who haven't done it yet, might even work for other early models?

 

 

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[02tom]

Wiper Rebuild based on Jim's excellent write up on the FAQ:

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/77977-wiper-linkage-refurbishment/

 

Unfortunately, the left and right wiper shaft pivots - 61 61 8 444 105 & 109 are currently showing none available with BMW, and would go on back order, if ordered.  The wiper linkage is somewhat of an upgrade from the pieces that came on the car originally.  The short piece came from BMW chrome plate, while the longer linkage came painted, both with new bushings (still wish they were available by themselves) and the rods came without the split in them lengthwise, as the originals had.  The new linkage made the biggest difference, mainly because of the new bushing that I had never noticed how sloppy they were from wear.  The left and right wiper pivots were inverted and freed up using some high quality synthetic lube.

 

More to come soon...

 

 

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[02tom]

The fuel lines are ran and the rear bumper is on

 

 

Edited September 9, 2016 by 02tom

[M3M3]

nice!

 

did you test fit the rear subframe and trailing arm to make sure there is clearance on the fuel lines?

[02tom]

Thanks, I looked it over pretty good but there's still a chance of having to move one of the clamps. I fitted the bushings and straps and there was room to spare. I'm more concern about the engine bay where it would be easy to forget where the wiring or brake booster support bracket is supposed to be.