Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1972 Riviera M2 Build


02tom

Recommended Posts

I love reading about all the other projects on here, but I knew my project would be a slow road to anywhere. I've been waiting to actually post pictures and info, thinking that it would take too long to post an update. Once I get the engine in, wired up, and running, I'll fell better about having posted, but hopefully this will help keep me motivated too.

Hopefully, I'll get the car back from the restoration shop in the first half of the year with a fresh coat of paint, and ready to move forward with the second incarnation of the car. This has probably been the harder road to take to build a car and I have entertained the thought of buying other cars at times that were finished. As long as it continues to be fun, I'll keep putting this car together...

post-2008-13667668501385_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668501764_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fast forward 10 years or so:

2007 - Bought the M3 engine
2008 - Engine Rebuilt
2009 - Transmission Modified - (no pictures yet)
2009 - Subframe reinforced
2009 - Bought the M3 body
2010 - Oil pan mods
2010 - Begin bodywork
2011 - Took a break
2012 - Continue bodywork

post-2008-13667668509628_thumb.jpg

post-2008-1366766851055_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668511509_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668512558_thumb.jpg

Edited by 02tom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In 2010, after finally coming to the realization that I don't have time / ability to do the bodywork, I had scheduled to have my car put in line for a partial restoration to repair the accident damage.  Used new repair panels for the trunk floor, rear panel, and driver's quarter.  A trunk lid from CA was bought shortly after the accident was in good enough condition to be used.  New door panels were also fitted because of the amount of work the existing ones needed - though not rusted, they couldn't have been made to look right with any amount of work.

 

Oil pan wouldn't clear the subframe, so I went with a different one.

post-2008-13667668513373_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668514206_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668515019_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668515838_thumb.jpg

Edited by 02tom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back to the body shop for the second time, and had a false start with some carbon fiber panels. The trunk lid was too thick and there was no way to reasonably rework the body to accommodate the trunk lid. The hood was weak in the center, and would not have matched the quality of work on the rest of the body. After several weeks of back-and-forth with trying to decide, bought a new BMW factory hood.  I was told that the panels were "race car" quality, but judging from earlier panels on the Porsche from the same company, it makes you wonder?

post-2008-13667668517882_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668518849_thumb.jpg

Edited by 02tom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Detail work before paint - trying to keep a fairly factory look, but with changes to suit the new drive train and with mods I've seen done working toward what I want in the car.  Note: Snorkel removal utilized the section of sheet metal from the driver's side of a parts car.

post-2008-13667668519872_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668520702_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668521628_thumb.jpg

post-2008-13667668522432_thumb.jpg

Edited by 02tom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

suggest jamming the radiator as far to the right as you can. that will leave more room on the left for air intake. open up the rad support where needed to let air hit all of the radiator.

i had my rad made with the outlet coming straight out the back rather than out the side specifically so i could put the rad 2+inches further to the right.

who made the CF panels you were not happy with?

2xM3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought I had a picture of the core support since it's been modified, but the modifications aren't done yet so I guess I held off. I hadn't thought of modifying the radiator outlet. The radiator I received has the outlet for a car with A/C which is what I was looking for, but I don't know if you would have room with the outlet pointing straight back? The left mounts on the core support have been moved to fit the new radiator, and the opening for the radiator has been enlarged to fit the size of the Silicon Garage rad. I'll post some pictures when I can get back over there.

The carbon fiber hood and trunk lid were from American International Racing. I'll probably use them one my other car, since it will never be a show car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

core cut on right side

DSCN5602.jpg

space on left

DSCN5604.jpg

how far over

DSCN5606.jpg

no a/c here...just slows you down....;-)

interesting info on the american racing cf parts. i have them bookmarked as source for my car. do you have any more pics of the fitment problems?

2xM3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your radiator really is pushed over - I need to get over to the shop to look at mine again. Why do you need so much room for the air intake? I was looking at using the 528e filter box with the M3 upper portion or whatever combination was in the Aardvark method.

I think I've got it the best it's going to be, but I'm having the panel opened up on both sides of the radiator. I've looked at Steve Petersen's pictures, and he's got a lot of room to work with the AC hoses, oil cooler and condenser (at least as much as you can without cutting out the top or something else custom).

It's hard to show the problems with the panels, especially the hood, but the trunk lid couldn't match the original lines of the body perfectly, and the gap on the driver's side was just too much. At first the shop was willing to try to work with the panels, despite the estimated additional cost of labor, but after more time went by, it was decided just getting a new hood, and using the used trunk lid I had was the way to go.

The concern with the hood was how much the center was going to flop up and down without somehow adding support. The hood needs more support in the center and the trunk lid alignment would require too much sheet metal work that would require me to only use that trunk lid once "adjustments" to the quarter were made to make it line up. I've seen these panels on other cars, and didn't see the problems I encountered, though now I'm what others had to do to make them work. They're all hand made, so each one is going to vary some.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, here's the picture. The bottom of the trunk lid matched the body line, but the top didn't sit flush.  Would have had to lower the hinges farther than they were made to be adjust to make it work.  Way too much bodywork for a panel that, if replaced would have not worked with any other trunk lid. 

 

I need to stop trying to add comments to the pictures cause it's causing problems...

post-15153-13667668542734_thumb.jpg

Edited by 02tom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your radiator really is pushed over - I need to get over to the shop to look at mine again. Why do you need so much room for the air intake? I was looking at using the 528e filter box with the M3 upper portion or whatever combination was in the Aardvark method.

I think I've got it the best it's going to be, but I'm having the panel opened up on both sides of the radiator. I've looked at Steve Petersen's pictures, and he's got a lot of room to work with the AC hoses, oil cooler and condenser (at least as much as you can without cutting out the top or something else custom).

It's hard to show the problems with the panels, especially the hood, but the trunk lid couldn't match the original lines of the body perfectly, and the gap on the driver's side was just too much. At first the shop was willing to try to work with the panels, despite the estimated additional cost of labor, but after more time went by, it was decided just getting a new hood, and using the used trunk lid I had was the way to go.

The concern with the hood was how much the center was going to flop up and down without somehow adding support. The hood needs more support in the center and the trunk lid alignment would require too much sheet metal work that would require me to only use that trunk lid once "adjustments" to the quarter were made to make it line up. I've seen these panels on other cars, and didn't see the problems I encountered, though now I'm what others had to do to make them work. They're all hand made, so each one is going to vary some.

not much room for an intake, especially if you have a squaretail like i do. getting cool air is important so i wanted to get the airfilter out from behind the rad.

probably already saw this in my M2 build thread, but i am using a CF airbox.

DSCN1784-1.jpg

thanks for the info on the CF panel fit. bummer.

2xM3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Current state of the radiator support. It's opened up on the sides of the radiator with the edges rolled for strength. Sorry for the poor quality pictures, the shop's crowded at the moment.

I would think that there are others who have gotten carbon fiber panels that matched the lines of the car better? I hadn't heard of any problem prior to buying mine, so I don't know what the difference would be. I guess one could start another thread on other's experience working with the carbon fiber panels if they were considering buying them...

post-15153-1366766864598_thumb.jpg

post-15153-13667668646838_thumb.jpg

post-15153-13667668647769_thumb.jpg

post-15153-13667668648582_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...