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Fuel pump question


Pastell02

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I have a 75 with a 32/36 carb and I recently pulled the fuel tank had it cleaned and painted. While it was out I also replaced the fuel lines from the fire wall to the carb. My question is how long should the engine crank before getting fuel to the carb? I've double checked the fuel line from the tank forward and it's clear.

Thanks,

Steve

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Try pouring a little fuel down the carb throat and crank to get it to fire.

Caution - too much and it can backfire and big flames.

Most starters spin a bit slow for the pump to really have enough oomph to start sucking fuel through. The high revs of a running motor do the trick.

HTH Beaner7102

1971 - 2002 RHD VIN 1653940. Agave (stock with Pertronix & 32/36 Weber) - "Cactus"

1972 - 1602 RHD VIN 1554408. Fjord (with 2L motor, 5spd & LSD - Weber 40/40 to come) - "Bluey"

1984 - E30 318i VIN WBAAK320208722176 - stock daily driver

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if this car SAT for years - the pump diaphram is toast - replace the pump and yer good for another 25 years

ACHTUNG! - DO NOT INSTALL A ELECTRIC PUMP! -

replace every rubber fuel hose - you don't need to see gas

leaking for a hose to be bad - it's old and sucking air through its

rotten rubber contributing to your long cranking times

02FUELHOSEANDCLAMPS.jpg

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Check the connection at the hard plastic line. It doesn't have a bulge or barbs to help grip the hose so you need to get it right otherwise it will suck in air at that point.

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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well then -

that can/could be.....

low - or uneven compression

valve adjustment

ignition timing

worn spark plugs

STALE GAS

choke adjustment

huge intake vacuum leak

brake booster hose off someplace ?

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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I've doulble checked the lines there are no leaks and the clamps are tightened.

CD, everything on the list below is set/adjusted to spec compression was good even across all cylinders (timing is just static as I havent been able to get it running long enough to get a timing light on it). Choke setting hasn't changed from when it was running fine, gas/spark plugs are fresh. The line from the booster appears to be fine the fitting at the booster wiggles a bit could that be an issue? I haven't looked at the fuel pump yet that will be tonight.

Steve

well then -

that can/could be.....

low - or uneven compression

valve adjustment

ignition timing

worn spark plugs

STALE GAS

choke adjustment

huge intake vacuum leak

brake booster hose off someplace ?

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Have you tried disconnecting the fuel line at the carb, directing it into a container and cranking?

Pull the top cover and see if there is fuel in the float chamber or if the entry to the jets are glued up. Might be worth pulling the jets one by one and squirting carb cleaner through the jets and through the mounting holes on the carb body.

If it fires from unmetered fuel you need to work backwards through the metered fuel path.

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Simeon, I'm not getting fuel to the fuel filter at this point.

Steve

Have you tried disconnecting the fuel line at the carb, directing it into a container and cranking?

Pull the top cover and see if there is fuel in the float chamber or if the entry to the jets are glued up. Might be worth pulling the jets one by one and squirting carb cleaner through the jets and through the mounting holes on the carb body.

If it fires from unmetered fuel you need to work backwards through the metered fuel path.

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order a NEW machanical pump from BLUNT today

but before you do

disconnect the hose from the carb- place end in bottle and crank for 30 sec.

always a possibility you have a major blockage from the tank

pickup strainer, a crushed hose/pipe between the tank and pump

LOOK!

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Yeah, I'm with CD on this one-

put vacuum on the fuel line and see if you can get fuel from the tank.

MityVac is good for this sort of thing.

The land cruiser sat for 10 years, and there was half an inch of goo

in the bottom of the tank that effectively plugged the pickup solid.

The 122 had junk in the tank that kept jamming the pump valves open,

making the pump appear dead- but a good cleaning fixed everything-

for a while.

If you can get fuel from the tank, then suspect the pump.

hth

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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  • 2 months later...
Just a follow up on my fuel pump issue. It did turn out to be a bad pump I installed my new pump(Thanks Blunt Tech!) today and fired up after just a bit of cranking.

Steve

Oh nice .. Now go drive it

www.BluntTech.com
FAQ Supporting Vendor
 Sales@BluntTech.com

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