Throttle linkage for MS 325i TB

[mike472]

In regard to the picture you could say I'm pulling up but with the manifold turned upside down and installed on the engine I would be pulling down in the same direction as the lever on the pedal box. You could pull sideways toward the fender using one of the other arms on the linkage like the gentlemen above using the other bosses on the manifold but I thought the longest arm would give the best leverage to pull the throttle open. It looks like the distance this long throttle lever needs to move is the same as the pedal box lever moves at its end when you measure its movement. I can drill additional holes in either arm to increase or decrease the travel to get proper pedal feel

[jimk]

I see now, you are using the arm that in an E30 pulls the TV cable.

[mike472]

Guys

My idea was a failure. When I mounted up the manifold the cable coming from underneath was ending up in front of the rubber elbow inlet. Looked at the bellcrank mounted on the firewall route and decided it looked like a pain to build. So what did I do? I cheated and called IE and spoke to Jeremy who kindly described to me a linkage that was purely cable from pedal box to throttle body. He was using a 41" cable with two simple brackets. I will try this and report back.

[Colin]

Guys

My idea was a failure. When I mounted up the manifold the cable coming from underneath was ending up in front of the rubber elbow inlet. Looked at the bellcrank mounted on the firewall route and decided it looked like a pain to build. So what did I do? I cheated and called IE and spoke to Jeremy who kindly described to me a linkage that was purely cable from pedal box to throttle body. He was using a 41" cable with two simple brackets. I will try this and report back.

You need a lever in there to reduce the throw.

[mike472]

I was advised I could increase the leverage and reduce the pull to the right amount by drilling a hole about 1" inboard of the original hole on the pedal box lever. The big lever I was originally pulling on had more travel required to fully open. If you use the original mounting points for the E30 you have a much shorter lever requiring a shorter pull. This will be remedied by doing the above. I may drill a couple of holes to give a little range of adjustment.

[02Coastie]

Guys

He was using a 41" cable with two simple brackets. I will try this and report back.

I just did this yesterday on mine, using an old DCOE cable linkage conversion that I had laying around. I ended up running a bracket off the manifold for a side pull on the TB.

The cable end had a ball joint on it already, so I just drilled the throttle lever to accept the stud.

For the pedal, I installed a bracket off the lower bell housing to block bolt. I thought the motion of the engine on the mounts could cause some problems, but I was pleasantly surprised to find no noticeable issue.

However, per your most recent post, I don't have a ton of pedal travel. While it certainly is usable, I'd like a little more fidelity on the tip in. I think I may take your suggestion and drill a hole in the pedal arm 1" or so back to see how that feels.

[mike472]

Guys

He was using a 41" cable with two simple brackets. I will try this and report back.

I just did this yesterday on mine, using an old DCOE cable linkage conversion that I had laying around. I ended up running a bracket off the manifold for a side pull on the TB.

The cable end had a ball joint on it already, so I just drilled the throttle lever to accept the stud.

For the pedal, I installed a bracket off the lower bell housing to block bolt. I thought the motion of the engine on the mounts could cause some problems, but I was pleasantly surprised to find no noticeable issue.

However, per your most recent post, I don't have a ton of pedal travel. While it certainly is usable, I'd like a little more fidelity on the tip in. I think I may take your suggestion and drill a hole in the pedal arm 1" or so back to see how that feels.

02Coastie,

Excellent! Thanks for posting this with great photos.

I have a five speed with a nub sticking out from the trans that I used with the dual webers close to where the starter bolt you used is. I didn't use it this time. I was thinking the top pedal box bolt is better since it doesnt move and is in a little better spot to put a bracket that is more in line with the pedal lever. I wanted to drill a couple of holes in the pedal lever and make sure the cable is fairly centered over them to get as straight a pull as I can.

I guess you could make a longer bracket if you wanted to keep your lower mount on the starter bolt. It might be hitting the body when the engine shakes if you try and get it down close to the pedal lever in the same spot I'm going to mount my bracket. You can see how much further in the pedal lever is from where I mounted my weber cable on the transmission. I didn't like the fidelity of that setup either. I think drilling those holes further in on the pedal box lever and getting a well positioned short stiff bracket is the key.

How long is your cable?

[mike472]

I finally got some good results. Made a bracket to pull from the side out of stainless stock I had. Used a 41" wire and 36" sheath for a cable. Had to do a little bending and the pedal box bracket is a little short. Otherwise everything is working fine. Drilled a hole almost 1" back on the pedal lever. Need to raise the lever inside the car to get a little more travel. Going to do MLytle's Stanley hinge gas pedal to go along with this. Should solve all the problems with sticky hard to modulate gas pedals.

[02again]

Lookin' Good Mike, wish I had more time to help.

[Colin]

That is almost exactly what I have and it has worked well on my daily driver for the past 3 years. You will still want a lever to reduce the throw. I'll post so photos of what I went with.