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M20 Swap Pics Thread


Meintii

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I am using a 245 for my swap but I assume that the transmission tunnel manipulation would be similar to what everyone else does.  I did have to take a hammer and dolly to the rain gutter and edge of the transmission tunnel.  I likely did not have to manipulate the tranny tunnel  but I wanted enough clearance to access the tanny bolts from the back (my 02 was originally an auto).  Below are a few picks of the rough in.  Once the engine and tranny are pulled I will be finish the body work to those areas.  

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I can't see if you Had to cut the radiator support but by the looks of how far back the engine is there might not be much modifications in the front half of it? Well anyway I need to set when will they be ready?

Actually I just saw the picture of the radiator I scrolled up some that's definitely a plus that you didn't have to cut up the radiator support. Definitely put me down for a set

Actually I just saw the picture of the radiator I scrolled up some that's definitely a plus that you didn't have to cut up the radiator support. Definitely put me down for a set

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up switching shops to get these cut in an appropriate amount of time. I finalized the first set and have order my new contact to cut more. I ended up using 3/16 inch material. I should have these ready very soon.  If anyone is still interested in a set please send me an email.  Thanks.  

cwallin00@hotmail.com 

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Edited by chad
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Ugh that would suck to pull the Powertrain in and out... Perhaps I'm jaded by my low roof height in the garage. Excellent work on the mounts! I will be lookin to fire mine hopefully around the 20th

1974 2002 - M20/Getrag 260 swap underway

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Those mounts look great! So many cool 2002 builds happening right now. Also Slavs, you're in the wrong thread. We are all crazy in here.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

clutchCTRL!


Move with a purpose.


1991 325iX 4dr/5spd I 2000 323i I 76 2002 - M20/G260 - in progress.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

The motor is officially in, please forgive the aluminum foil and toasty looking bay.  I used the foil to protect things during the degreasing/pressure washing process.  The Chad W mounts are decent, I ended up needing to get them re-welded for strength, but after they are in, I had similar results to his motor placement.  1.5 degrees on intake manifold, 21.5 degrees on the valve cover (1.5 off from stock which was 0 and 20). The placement of the new hole to offset the passenger motor mount is key.

 

His mounts do not allow the trans to clear the center tie rod (track rod?) when using the G260.  The remedy was to shorten and strengthen the pitman/idler arms to bring the assembly forward an inch or so. 

 

There is a huge benefit to using his mounts and making adjustments to the pitman/idler.  The motor is really low (center of gravity) and there is a lot of clearance in the front for the radiator.  I also shaved off the threads on the water pump and cut 1/2 of the crank nut off.

 

Also, the motor is coming out again for panting, cleaning up, etc.  I am basically doing this whole swap twice.

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Edited by nerdydorkus
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Glade to hear that there isn't a huge issue using the G260 and overall that your happy with the mounts. Sorry again for that bad set. Others shouldn't have an issue with the quality of the welds. Keep us up to date on the swap.

Edited by chad
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The placement of the new hole to offset the passenger motor mount is key.

 

That's looking awesome mate

 

Any chance you could take a photo of the new hole you've made in the passenger motor mount pretty please? I'm gona be doing the exact same thing in the next few weeks.

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That's looking awesome mate

 

Any chance you could take a photo of the new hole you've made in the passenger motor mount pretty please? I'm gona be doing the exact same thing in the next few weeks.

 

Sure, no problem.  I do have a better method now that it's all said and done (of course).  I'd recommend bolting the rubber mount to the motor and Chad's mounts, then not bolting it to the subframe at all.  Then get mock up the motor and subframe on the car roughly and shake the motor back and forth until the mount seats firmly in place.  This will tell you where it wants to be, rather than trying to force it in a hole that torques the mount in an odd fashion.  Check your alignment with the trans/diff and mark your holes and drill away!

Edited by nerdydorkus
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