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13

Solex
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Everything posted by 13

  1. He seems relatively knowledgable (for the vast amount of stuff he owns) but almost all of his interviews with someone when they bring something in, he really just doesn't seem all that interested in what they have to say. It's a meh from me, but some of those cars are drool worthy
  2. Drop a CA Tuned monster rear end conversion in with an e30 LSD, and put a Holset on... Or be cheap like me and go spray juice on these cheap engines
  3. The one thing that is strange is how little info there is on it in a lot of m20 swaps. I realize it's not always common but perhaps it's something one of the swap authors should edit in. Anywho I took a bit of a break as I need some parts but I will be soldering my connections up this weekend and hopefully looming up the wires again and running all my switches and nitrous hookups. Im going to run connectors out to my fog lights aswell for times when I would like to pull the bumper off quickly or take it off before I leave for autocross days or for when the engine inevitably blows lol Should be ordering a clutch line from CA Tuned, getting my rad plumbing sorted, and hopefully measured for wheel studs and spacers this week. Might be able to take it for a drive around the block when all that stuff arrives and gets installed. I may even order my lip and turbo spoiler soon. Than it will be buttoning up the trans tunnel, and unfortunately throwing a tarp over it for fall as I will be in trade school for two months until November which is just in time for the snow to start falling. If the car runs decent before I tuck it away, I'm probably gonna order some spare parts over winter and plan a trip down the west coast of Canada and the States, swing out to Vegas/ Grand Canyon area for a few days, and than haul ass back to Canada to take the gf to see her family out in Saskatchewan (she's always wanted to show them my car, especially now that it's got some life in it now), than cruise on home and enjoy it as my summer car.
  4. Yep it was the ecu plug test that confirmed the lack of power and my power probe and multimeter that made it relatively easy to find. Yeah it's flopping around good because it's not bolted in on the drivers side as I wanted to make sure it would fire before bolting it all down in case I had a possible fault in the engine wiring. Mlytle was very correct about using the etk manual as it revealed in 10 minutes of testing what was wrong as opposed to me trying to figure it out by winging it and ripping my hair out.
  5. I'd say it depends on how bad the rust is. I bought my 74 02, basically a base model but had a nice little weber, spare trans, another set of wheels and tires, two spare doors, and a box of other parts for $1500 3 years ago out by Drumhellar and passed inspection like a champ. Mine was basically rust free due to a previous owner doing some body work shock towers in the back of mine must have been replaced at some point, aswell as a respray to a dark green instead of the factory hellblau. Interior was mostly there minus the shifter surround, and there was some choppy wiring but was perfectly fine for DD in summer. That being said a legitimate Tii even in "mediocre" shape seems to be between 5-9000 here but due to the Alberta inflation where everyone tries to squeeze every cent out of a car i'd say its pretty good. To give you an idea, i've found a number of cars far worse off than mine over the last year going for mid 4's up to a crazy $12000 for one in the exact same shape as mine without factory wheels or anything so... Id say you got a deal especially with spare parts and a fresh engine. I'd say give it a good cleaning and park it somewhere dry and clean until you find the time and means to get working on her. It would be a shame to strip the engine and sell the rolling chassis to someone like me who is almost debating another engine swap -shiftyeyes- I'd say it depends on how bad the rust is. I bought my 74 02, basically a base model but had a nice little weber, spare trans, another set of wheels and tires, two spare doors, and a box of other parts for $1500 3 years ago out by Drumhellar and passed inspection like a champ. Mine was basically rust free due to a previous owner doing some body work shock towers in the back of mine must have been replaced at some point, aswell as a respray to a dark green instead of the factory hellblau. Interior was mostly there minus the shifter surround, and there was some choppy wiring but was perfectly fine for DD in summer. That being said a legitimate Tii even in "mediocre" shape seems to be between 5-9000 here but due to the Alberta inflation where everyone tries to squeeze every cent out of a car i'd say its pretty good. To give you an idea, i've found a number of cars far worse off than mine over the last year going for mid 4's up to a crazy $12000 for one in the exact same shape as mine without factory wheels or anything so... Id say you got a deal especially with spare parts and a fresh engine. I'd say give it a good cleaning and park it somewhere dry and clean until you find the time and means to get working on her. It would be a shame to strip the engine and sell the rolling chassis to someone like me who is almost debating another engine swap -shiftyeyes-
  6. Well, as you guys may have noted in my 5th picture there was a 3 wire plug with a green wire beside the ecu connector... Well turns out that was what was causing my lack of ignition power. So I ran power to it... You can tell I may have been a little bit giddy as I did not expect it to fire so quickly and I whipped out the phone and gave it a few braaaaaaps. The biggest thing was so many people in my life as of late were saying I should just sell it or get someone or a shop to finish the wiring. I stuck with it, and now I get to give a ton of people the middle finger because it is finally running! 3 years this month was when the old m10 bit the dust, and now she lives on!
  7. Good morning FAQ'ers, so I swapped out my ecu for a known working ecu (pulled from a running car 2 days prior as a part out due to a rusty frame) So I woke up today (being layed off everyday is a holiday in disguise lol), and said okay lets see what an engine harness test will show. So I ran all pertinent tests (excluded automatic and a/c tests) and found some interesting results. The tests I ran were on this page for the 55 pin connector http://www.rtsauto.com/ecu-pinout-and-e ... tests-e30/ Results: Starter Input Test: FAIL Test calls for testing voltage between pin 27 and ground with the Ignition ON. Expected Results would be of course 12V, I got a reading of ZERO. This leads me to believe that perhaps this is what causes my main relay not to click open, etc etc. Reference Sensor Test: FAIL Test calls for testing resistance between pin 48 and 47. Expected results are 540 ohms with a +/- 54 ohm variance, I got a reading of NOTHING. This leads me to believe this could be a link to my next test by having my crank postion sensor being hooked up to the wrong plug (but I could be wrong). Evap Emissions Purge Valve: FAIL Test calls for pin 36 and pin 2 to be jumped together, aswell as grounding pin 5 out which should result in the purge valve clicking. The strange result was when I connect pin 36 and pin 2, the valve clicks, and grounding pin 5 does nothing. This one seems like it will be a relatively insignificant problem to getting my car to fire up but will need to be addressed down the road. So, here is a recap on what happens on top of the above mentioned test results. The fuel pump relay itself and is healthy, nothing happens to it when I attempt to turn the car on or start in any way, jumping it will fire my pump up. The ecu relay itself was tested and it is healthy, nothing happens to it when I attempt to turn the car on or start in any way, jumping it will fire up my ICV valve and cause it to start buzzing. My coil has proper power, my ground seem to be all hooked up and I cant find any ungrounded power on the engine. I can fire my starter when I put my key to start. My gauges (minus the tach and water temp) seem to be fine, I have lights, wipers etc. When I turn the key to the on position the 2002 side relay will click to enable lights and signals, etc. So... whats the best plan of attack?
  8. bump. so i've checked CPS, checked my relays for working order (they are all fine), I have power at the proper pin outs on the ecu, the fuel pump can work by bypassing the relay, I can bypass the ecu relay to fire up the ICV, I have proper power readings at the coil, and all engine grounds are perfect. This leads me to believe I have a fried ecu... Hmmmm...
  9. Hey guys, so I have relatively in theory hooked up for the 02/m20 wires that are needed. Whats happening is when I turn the key to the on/run position only one relay 02 sign sounds like its popping on (99% sure its the blinker/flasher relay) and the L (alt light) comes on (which im thinking it should because the car is not fired therefore creating no electricity from the alternator), my fuel level moves up, and nothing else happening (besides being able to turn on lights/wipers/brake lights/park lights). I have 12v to my coil when in the on position but its like the car wont attempt to spark either. I have power to the ecu (I think theres four pins on the ecu with generous 12.4v of power), I can jump the relay to run the fuel pump in any key position, I can que the starter when I turn the key to start. My guess is that my relays are completely shot and/or my ecu is fried. Everything other than a few random never connected ground wires (brown) on the 02 side, aswell as a blue wire with a ring terminal seem to be hooked up. I am quite baffled.
  10. Hey guys, I just got layed off and that means its the perfect time to get the engine running in this thing. Ive got most of my 2002 wiring figured out to run to the c101 plug, but I have a good number of questions about all the jazz on the M20B25 and what goes where and what needs to be grounds, etc. Okay first pic... So its not mounted or anything, but where exactly should these two power cables run to? I imagine the large main power wire runs to the power distribution block, as for the small wire, I have no clue (also I will repair it if I need it). The engine and harness are from an 86 325 Second pic... I imagine this would have ran to a brake booster of sorts... Since its in an 02 i'd assume just cap it off. Third pic... This plug is on the same branch as the 3 main relays, no clue where she needs to run to... Fifth pic... So the big one and the two right close to it are for the ecu, the other plug further down the line... no clue Sixth pic... No clue where she goes Seventh Pic FPR, as far as I knew, this was going to be for the supply, everyone is saying its the return... Eighth pic... Okay so if the other was return, this should be the supply. The two wires look to be running to either a ground or to the power distribution block... Ninth pic... Engine to chassis ground? Tenth pic... Not a clue... Eleventh pic... This is further along on the main branch from the ecu just poking into the engine bay... again not a clue... Final pic... So this is actually 2002 wiring, I believe its for the oil temp gauge as the colors seem to match up but as far for there being two wires im perplexed. Its a VDO factory gauge. Unfortunately most of the wiring is butchered on the 02 side and half of it was just danging in the engine bay when the car was running with the m10. I admit its a huge amount of questions, but this is really the only thing that I feel unsure about... I really am not a fan of wiring at all. Thanks guys!
  11. Ugh that would suck to pull the Powertrain in and out... Perhaps I'm jaded by my low roof height in the garage. Excellent work on the mounts! I will be lookin to fire mine hopefully around the 20th
  12. Ugh and just when I thought I was done with turbo plans lol I think I might be ordering one later this summer
  13. it's been aired back up for quite a while (the pictures are old)
  14. Oh nice I will have to look into that. As for the light bar in debating on running one beneath the diving board up front for added light output (while being somewhat hidden). I tend to drive on some dark back roads in the mountains so the more light the better
  15. im sure ive posted these but since ive been riding the high of making progress on my swap... Cant wait to get it sorted and on the road
  16. Well, winter has passed and its full steam ahead these days pushing to get the swap done. Trans mount was mocked up friday and waiting to get final welding (I have no real way to safely grind my booger welds into something nice so its usually back and forth between my garage and my shop at work). Anyways this is what she looked like mocked up and here she is waiting for final welding, cleaning, and paint So besides that I need to do my driveshaft bearing mount, run my power, fuel, and nitrous lines from the trunk, install my fuel pump, pull the engine and trans and give it a final inspection (I have a feeling I may have been a bit careless when I was originally doing the timing belt), get a clutch line (impossible to find), notch a few things for clearance, paint the engine mounts, build the throttle cable adapter/mount, finish the wiring build my afm and rad mounts, figure out which coolant hoses to buy, and maybe get the thing to fire up... than buy new front struts, wheel spacers, brakes, light bar, finish up the fender flare install, run the nitrous accesories, fab the trans tunnel, and send it to get a side exit exhaust...
  17. Pretty sure that engine and trans is sitting too far forward and needs to come back. I had a similar issue needing to remove the flywheel cover to get my steering clearance, now I clear by about 3/4 of an inch at the closest point. Only difference is, I made my own mounts (and a G240 trans but the point is moot). If you have your own welder or know someone who does, the mounts are pretty easy to fab up. I finished mine with just a hammer, protractor, grinder and welder in about an hour so even a pro shouldn't charge much if you farm it out
  18. Hey look she fits lol So the whole shift linkage setup is a mix and match of 325 links and 02 Platform and selector, pretty much cut and welded it to fit my ideal throws. Still need to weld it up for good but im happy, and the hurst shifter feels absolutely perfect! With a bunch of tweaking and help from my prybars we got the engine and trans in together and wouldnt you know, the 325 driveshaft fit perfectly. Still need to build a few brackets but I think its moving along well. It was actually a bit wild to sit in the car and know that the drivetrain is pretty much in and good to go... As you can guess I spent a couple minutes sitting in the car making racecar noises and rowing some gears lol We cleared up the steering clearance issue by removing that giant inspection plate and I will be tossing in a plexiglass (or some thin steel) to cover the gaping holes where the engine and trans mount. The only real issue we have now is the front sway bar(?) runs into the crank sensor so.... I dunno what to do there.... The biggest issue is they rub pretty darn hard. Once we get the last brackets measured up, I am pulling out the engine and trans one last time, picking away at a few electrical projects (fuel pump wiring, nitrous accessories, line lock wiring, etc.) running fuel lines, and basically finishing up most everything else. I still need to find a clutch cable, and some fuses for the m20 harness. I did however manage to get ahold of a bottle mount for my nitrous (since it was missing it) off my work for free.. Technically a fire extinguisher mount but with a few tweaks and some paint she will work fine! Basically just need to gain some clearance for my bottle heater. Main reason the progress has slowed right down is most of my money is going into this \/
  19. Yeah the car wouldn't be driven gently that's for sure, sounds like it would fit the bill perfectly!
  20. Just wondering about that how-to/article that was posted a while ago... Does anyone know what kind of power that setup would be able to withstand?
  21. I concur, seems a number of people I've talked to don't run there's either.
  22. Okay so here's where mine is sitting. The inspection cover is rubbing like mad on my drag link. Already filed it down, but I'm thinking I will remove the plate and make my own inspection plate if it gives me enough clearance. The tranny is also dropping down just a bit but even when level it's still rubbing. As for exhaust I think I clear it but I will most likely make a custom down pipe/collector
  23. Bump Does anyone have info on the e28 steering setup. I read that it needs the inner tie rods and the drag link needs to be shortened and retreaded but I can see how. Does the dropped portion of the drag link come in three pieces? If not, how can it be shortened and threaded? Sorry for all the dumb questions
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