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Everything posted by chad

  1. My swap and presence on the forum has been on hiatus for a few years until about 2 weeks ago. Finally got around figuring out my wiring issues and got her fired off over the weekend. Now I can clean up all the wiring and get everything tucked away.
  2. Yes, I still have a few sets left. Please email me for details. Thanks.
  3. I have checked the CPS based on the methods shown above (47 to 48) and my multimeter read approximately 554 ohms. I also checked the resistance of the cylinder ID sensor and it met the specs referenced above as well. I have tested the coil, which I have power when the ignition is on, and both the primary and secondary test spec out according to the Bentley. At this point I am going to just replace cap, rotor, and plug wires because that is the only thing I can think that is left since everything else specs out. I did check fuel and while I still have to check pressure, I do have what appears to be sufficient flow coming from my return when I am trying to start so at this point I am assuming I have adequate flow to get it started. It also appears to be getting fuel to the combustion chamber because there is fuel on the plugs.
  4. Thanks. I do have the green wire from the C104 plug neat the DME wired to Run/Start at the ignition and I have switched the CSP and ID plug coming off the plug wires. Also, after repeating some of the diagnostics, specifically testing the fuel injector control, I noticed something that didn't seem right to me. Following the methods below, I bridge terminal 36 and 2 with a jumper and then ground terminal 16/17 but the injectors do not click. I was using a testing light to use as a ground and when it is grounded the light comes on. Correct me if I am wrong but there shouldn't be power to terminals 16 and 17 when jumping terminals 2 and 36, right? From my understanding if there is constant power to both pins at an injector(s) and terminals 16 and 17 have power than there is no grounding occurring and I could have a short or pore ground somewhere.
  5. Thanks Toby. I'll take a look at those suggestions as well asap. I am sure I'll have a few more questions in the next few days.
  6. Thanks Toby. I'll pick up a noid light at the store when I pick up some new relays. After I posted my original post I ran through everything again and my timing light isn't flashing consistent so I think there is a spark issue as well. I am going to confirm by pulling a plug. I have an earlier harness and the injector lines are not a separate harness like i believe the later ones are. I can only hear the fuel pump run when I bypass the relay or when I check the fuel pump relay control which I can also hear the injectors clicking. Should I be able to hear it run like I do when the relay is bypassed? This puzzles me even more because when I check the fuel injector control by bridging terminal 36 and 2 and then grounding terminal 16 or 17 I don't hear them click. I also confirmed with a multimeter that I have no voltage between the two prongs at the injector plugs when the ignition is in the Run position.
  7. I am going through these diagnostics (http://www.rtsauto.com/ecu-pinout-and-electrical-tests-e30/) and was not able to hear the injectors click. I am not going through the DME Fault Code 16 (fuel injectors present) procedures in the the ETM. Hopefully this will tell me something. The have also complete the procedures according to the referenced link to test the fuel pump control and main relay control and those were successful. If the fuel pump control passes then that tells me that the relay is fine, correct. If the relay was bad then the signal wouldn't make it to the pump right? UPDATE: I tested injectors 1 and 2 and there is 12v at both wires. I alos jumped the injectors of 12v and they click so that tells me there is something wrong with the engine side of the harness right? Are M20 harnesses prone to any wiring issues that I should look at?
  8. I finished wiring the M20 wiring harness into the 2002 chassis harness according to 6 into 2 and the threads here on the forum but I unable to get the engine to fire off. I'm looking for some help on diagnosing why it wont start. I have reviewed the appropriate ETM (1987) and various other resources, namely the FAQ, to diagnose why it wont start but still cant find the issue. I am using the chassis side of a C101 plug and all of the pins are tied into the 2002's harness as described in the referenced information above. Please note that I do not have the O2 sensor plugged in because I still need to fabricate the down pipe. I have also unplug and removed the MAF at times to see if that was causing an issue. I am assuming that I could get the engine to fire off with those not connected. I do have the MAF plugged in at the moment. My primary reason to test start the engine is because I want to have as much room as possible to clean up the wiring within the engine compartment before I attached the remaining parts. Listed below is a summary of my diagnoses/tests I have performed. 1. Engine turns over. 2. Power to the ECU via the green wire from the C104 plug. This wire is tied into the two green wires at the ignition (Start/Run). Test light confirms that power is going to the DME during start and run. 3. Test light shows that I have power to pins 6, 7, and the coil. 4. Test light shows no power to pin 13. 5. I have jumped the fuel pump relay (87-30) to test the fuel pump. I can hear the pump working when jumping the relay. 6. Pin 13 has power when jumping fuel pump relay. 7. I have attached my timing light to check spark and it is flashing so I assume I have spark (solo diagnoses). 8. Tach wires (chassis) are not currently connected to the black wire at the C104 plug. 9. Fresh fuel is in the tank. 10. new battery I am inexperienced EFI systems but based on what I have observed it appears that I may have a fuel delivery issue. I am going to go and pick up all new relays to ensure that those are not causing the issue because I am not sure if the injectors are tied into those relays to where they would not work if one is bad. Any guidance to help diagnose the issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chad
  9. I am in the Gig Harbor area and have one. PM me if your interested.
  10. I am looking for a 318is pump and sender for my M20 swap. Thanks. [email protected]
  11. No burrs. It wouldn't fit on my spare G245 either which tells me something is wrong with the disc. Compared to the old one you can see that the spline on the disc is off. The teeth are noticeably short and wider. I am going out this afternoon to get the part number on the disc to try and reference to see if the wrong one was put in the kit.
  12. I just ordered a replacement kit so hopefully that should fix it.
  13. Has anyone ever received a bad clutch disc with a Sachs kit? I when to put the clutch (E30 325i) and transmission in last night for my M20 swap the alignment tool would only pass through the clutch disk about 3/8 to 1/2 inch before binding up. I double checked this on the input shaft on my transmission (Getrag 245) too and had the same thing happen. I also double checked P/N on the E21 323i and the 228mm 2002 clutch discs and they are the same part number.
  14. Thanks. I am currently under the impression that the only wire at the C104 that I need to deal with is for the black wire for the tach, which would go the coil/tach.
  15. Can anyone tell me if the later model ECU (173) can plug and play with an early 325i harness? I have the early ECU and harness from a pre 87 325i and before I move forward wiring the chassis C101 to the 2002 chassis harness I wanted to double check and make sure first. Thanks.
  16. Anyone have a E30 325i single mass flywheel they want to sell? Looking for one for my M20 swap.
  17. Well that all depend on the results of the Apple Cup. Joking aside, I still have sets. Shoot me an email [email protected] Also, here is a link to a swap that used my mounts. There is a lot of useful pictures that Brett took. https://automotion.smugmug.com/Restoration-Projects-/1972-BMW-2002/i-xNkP3Kr
  18. Regarding the drive shaft, is it short even if you adjust the diff all the way forward?
  19. Glade to hear that there isn't a huge issue using the G260 and overall that your happy with the mounts. Sorry again for that bad set. Others shouldn't have an issue with the quality of the welds. Keep us up to date on the swap.
  20. You'll have to locate a M20 bell housing for the G245 as well. The transmission will be located farther back than what you likely have now and you will likely have to perform some minor body work in the tunnel like I mentioned. I am having about 20 cm removed from the front section of my drive shaft. Let me know what you decide. I have also attached a picture of everything mocked up. This includes the E30 M3 aluminum radiator that I had modified.
  21. I originally was going to use an e21 323i radiator but found out that a few e21 guys use an e30 m3 aluminum radiator as an upgrade. You have to swap the lower outlet to the other side but then it's a direct replacement. I purchased a Mishimoto radiator and just have to have the outlet swaped. It is a little bigger than the stock e21 323i radiator but still fits.
  22. Correct. As for the drip tray, I used a hammer and dolly to create the radius above the valve cover. You will also have a little hammer work to do for the transmission. Keep the questions coming.
  23. I didn't slot the hole but I think I have seen pictures of people doing it in the past. As for locating the new hole for the right mount, I would mount the left side and the transmission first, assuming you have made the room in the tunnel already. Once you locate the transmission, mount the right side and mark your new hole. That's what I did but I had my engine and transmission up on supports so I could take the mounts on and off when I was designing them. You could just mount the left side first and not deal with the transmission. The offset for each hole should be about the same distance. I am also using IE's urethane mounts. They don't have the "nubs" like the factory ones.
  24. I added a picture to show the 323i radiator in reference to the front of engine.

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