Behr A/C Question

[bmw2002tiidriver]

I have a Behr a/c system and it blows, but doesn't blow cold air. I need to charge it. What freon would you guys suggest using?

[tjones02]

R12 if you still have the old original style compressor.

R134 if you have or get one of the newer rotary compressors. I recommend getting a new compressor.......

[c.d.iesel]

could be just bad power supply to the compressor clutch?

FUSE ?

WIRING ?

something simple - Look first

get system pressure readings - and look for oily

dirty deposits on the components - that's a leak

(your killing the planet by the way)

bad temp control switch on the consol ?

look

or do your car a huge favor and remove everylast

bit of the AIR COND and have a lighter weight, quieter,

cooler running, less vibrations, better MPGs and performance car

You have roll down windows.

[jgerock]

Even though it was somewhat hot and humid this weekend, I didn't use the A/C in my car. 270 (two windows down @ 70mph) works fine.

Or you could just gut the console and put gauges like Mark Sperber did in his squarelight.

[Emyers]

I recommend that even if you get a new compressor, good advice, you stay with R 12. There is no shortage of R12, and your system will need much more than new compressor to run R134a.

Earl

74 02Lux

02 M Roadster

72 Volvo 1800ES

[Gil. H.]

Just did the same diagnosis of my Frigiking system.

First, as c.d.iesel states, do the simple things first.

If you've got r12, you can tell by the adapters on the compressor and low pressure line, check the compressor to see if it's trying to engage when you turn on the a/c. If there's no freon the compressor probably won't 'click' on.

First thing I did was pull the compressor, if it's a york it's not as hard as you think. Mine was attached with barrier hose and clamps, a few bolts to the bracket and of course the belt around the crank. Pull the generator belt first, then the a/c belt. You can then disconnect the hoses, it's better if you've got modern compression fittings, then loosen the bolts to the compressor and take it out from the bottom. A friend to help you lower it down a good idea.

Have the compressor checked out. Most auto a/c guys will do it for you. I found a guy to service and check mine out for $60.

If you've got clamps on the a/c lines going to the condenser and compressor, get some t-bolt clamps from McCarr-Master. They torque up real nice and tight with a wide band to prevent leakage.

Install is the reverse. Make sure you reinstall the compressor belt nice and tight, any slippage and you won't get the compressor to engage right. Ask me how I know.

When you've got everything back in place, go to an a/c that still works on r12, they're out there, check craigslist. I picked up 4 cans of r12 for $30 from an ad on craigslist. Our 2002's need between 1 and 1/2 cans, 2 at the most. First you evacuate the system to make sure there are no leaks, then install the Freon.

I did the work over two weekends, so take your time.

With a well tuned car, the impact of operating the a/c to overall driving is minimal. Having hit 100 here in San Antonio already, it's worth the effort.

Most shops will try to get you to convert over to r134 resist if you can find a shop to keep yours going.

Post if you need any more assistance and good luck,

[jgerock]

One thing that some folks don't know. A/C systems on tii's have the compressor belt behind the fuel injection drive belt. You have to remove the nylon cog belt for the KF pump to gain access to the A/C belt. PITA.

Unique tii A/C crankshaft pulley