Broken plastic heater valve/box bracket - Possible solution.

[asifallasleep]

While troubleshooting a heating lever that wouldn't go all the way to warm to fully open, i discovered the issue was that the plastic bracket on the heater box that connects to the heater valve was all cracked. As a result the heater valve moved too far from the box, basically stretching the cable so that the dash heater lever met with resistance. I removed the heater valve and of course the cracked plastic bracket crumbled to bits.

My remedy was to purchase thick 3/4 inch flexible pvc to replace the tattered flimsy worn out hose that connected the heater valve to the heater box. The flexible pvc is so sturdy, the healer valve doesn't need to be connected to anything to hold it into place. WIll have to monitor this over time but seems to be a good solution.

[jimk]

Beware PVC gets soft and looses strength at temperatures above 120F. Are you sure it is PVC and not CPVC? CPVC withstands much higher temperatures.

[esty]

sounds like you're using polyethylene, which should work great...good job!

[asifallasleep]

Beware PVC gets soft and looses strength at temperatures above 120F. Are you sure it is PVC and not CPVC? CPVC withstands much higher temperatures.

Yikes. I did use a flexible PVC tube. Thanks for the heads up. Ran to Autozone and got proper heating hose and reinstalled. Funny how once you do something is soooo much easier the 2nd time around. The heating hose I got from Autozone was just as thick and sturdy as the PVC tube I removed. Modern day hose is so much thicker and sturdier than the old stuff. The original hose I replaced although of course old and worn, was so thin in its original state. I'm not sure with the thicker hoses if mounting the heating valve unit to the heating box is really necessary. The pulling of the cable is so light and with the hose being thick and all connections secure, similar to say a plumbing setup, I think I'm ok.

[Mike Self]

some few years--broke it while trying to remove that petrified 26 year old valve-to-nipple hose--but I replaced it with a piece of off-the-roll heater hose of the proper diameter, and it's plenty stiff to hold the valve in position so the control cable works properly. I was gonna install an aluminum valve bracket, but didn't see the need.

mike

[asifallasleep]

some few years--broke it while trying to remove that petrified 26 year old valve-to-nipple hose--but I replaced it with a piece of off-the-roll heater hose of the proper diameter, and it's plenty stiff to hold the valve in position so the control cable works properly. I was gonna install an aluminum valve bracket, but didn't see the need.

mike

i basically did the same as you did. the hose is so stiff seems to be no need for a bracket. i guess it will be fine as you did yours years ago!!!

[eurotrash]

While troubleshooting a heating lever that wouldn't go all the way to warm to fully open, i discovered the issue was that the plastic bracket on the heater box that connects to the heater valve was all cracked. As a result the heater valve moved too far from the box, basically stretching the cable so that the dash heater lever met with resistance. I removed the heater valve and of course the cracked plastic bracket crumbled to bits.

My remedy was to purchase thick 3/4 inch flexible pvc to replace the tattered flimsy worn out hose that connected the heater valve to the heater box. The flexible pvc is so sturdy, the healer valve doesn't need to be connected to anything to hold it into place. WIll have to monitor this over time but seems to be a good solution.

Do you have any photos of this piece you used? I am performing this repair soon and need a solution.

Thanks ..