Is Shrick worth the price?

[LeeJohn]

Hey everyone, so im in need of a 292 cam.. Do u guys think Ie's cam or should i fork out the big bucks for schrick.. i am so torn.. has anyone had any crazy cam stories.. I dont know anyone personally thats destroyed a cam..

heard stories though.

[john1180]

I'd check with Delta Cams in Tacoma, they have a very reasonable and fast regrind service.

[Somchai]

Ypu can't compare a new billet cam from Schrick with a regrind.

However if you can find a cam from a new billet with similar specs to Schrick you can expect similar performance. Plenty of other name brand cams with very similar lift, duration that are cheaper than Schrick 'Cat' cams for instance or IE who are producing new billet cams for a reasonable price.

I did some searching and settled on Schrick cos in Europe they aren't expensive and they have the experience to produce a quality product with proven results.. That is what u are paying for.. If I lived in the US I probably would have given IE a call.

[Beaner7102]

Is $449 big bucks? VAC Motorsport:

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/schrick---m10-camshafts-p932.aspx

Choose your grind (284, 292, 304 etc.)

I got 2 from them the year before, fast delivery. HTH Beaner7102

[TobyB]

Ypu can't compare a new billet cam from Schrick with a regrind.

Sure you can.

Schrick 292= $490 Regrind $72 plus $50 for lash caps= $125

Schrick= lasts for x miles Regrind = lasts for y miles, where y

Schrick= set grind Regrind= multiple options.

Schrick= lower stress on rockers due to larger base circle.

I've run both, and honestly had no problems with regrinds. There's a good

case to be made that the smaller base circle puts more stress on the rockers,

but I have kept Febi rockers alive on moderate

(non- streetable) regrinds at 7500 rpm... so there you go.

As to what the VALVE does- well, that's independant of the base circle,

honestly.

So no, you won't get more power from a Schrick. You may get better

life, and you might be happier knowing you've put a known bumpstick

in there... or you might enjoy the 'hmm, let's see what THIS does'

excitement of the regrind du jour. I spent some time messing around

with what could be done under the stock lobe... and it was very instructive,

and pretty darned cheap for the experimentation.

So it's up to you- but yes, a cam's a cam, and that's all it is.

t

[rover1]

yes dr. Schrick is worth the price- i mean its kinda of a goofy question its kinda like asking is a bmw 2002tii worth the price or should i buy datsun 510?

[LeeJohn]

Hahaha i used to own a 510~~! hilarious..

Ok i get that schrick is better but im not exactly clear why..

is it on a molecular level?

is it a patenant "shape" they have?

harmonics?

giving credit where credit is do?

the cool machines they use to build them?

do they only use space metal?

i pulled the trigger on a 292. Im happy and now just have to get double springs and some oem rockers and its ON!

[hrg88]

If I lived in the US I probably would have given IE a call.

I am very happy with my IE 306 cam. Cost is more than a regrind, but much less than a Shrick. Ran it for 1 season so far and no measurable wear, great performance and actually streetable with my DCOE 45's.

[aa/fd]

Schrick costs more period, and until you reach the realm where the stock core will not support the opening area you are seeking save your money.

Any proper cam grinder house like Delta can do a nice job, as can most any of the after market cam manufactures.

Believe it or not domestic cam guys like Gary at Comp Cams, Bruce Crower, Chase form Crane are very up on all profiles for about any motor.

A note of interest Bruce Crower worked at and with Dr. Porsche and Dr. Schrick bringing a lot of the American approach to the continent.

Remember Hot-rodders are hot-rodders regardless of the language, and marketing is marketing. Spend your money wisely.

[Guest Anonymous]

Sorry toby but you will get more power from a non regrind. Regrinds don't have as much lift. A new billet like IE or schrick will have more lift and make more power than regrinding a 264 stock cam to 292.

[hrg88]

Sorry toby but you will get more power from a non regrind. Regrinds don't have as much lift. A new billet like IE or schrick will have more lift and make more power than regrinding a 264 stock cam to 292.

Not always true - there are many regrinds available with the same lift as the billit cams, but everyone seems to forget that the profile is very important also. Not all 292/.490 cams are crated equal.

[schwarz75]

Profile is a factor. Speak with Jim Rowe at MM. He has his own profile design and has his cams made for him accordingly.

[kbmb02]

Perhaps an extension of the question is this: If one could get a 'copy' of a Schrick cam with the same specs at all points on the lobe profile (whether from a new billet or a regrind), is there a benefit to the Schrick worthy of the higher expense? (that is, aside from supporting our German buddies...)

I hope to soon have an engine / vehicle to test the cams I've acquired (an Isky 310, a couple of Norris cams (can't find info on them), a Schneider which produces a healthy exhaust note and a cam labeled 'Bonneville Cam' with what appears to have a ton of duration). If anyone's looking for factory cores, shoot me an email.

Toby, I'd also like to know about your favorite Delta grind for a mild M10 race motor (should you care to release that info, here or via email).

-KB

[TobyB]

Sorry toby but you will get more power from a non regrind

Sorry, OldGuy, the 292 doesn't have all that much lift.

It's under .400 at the valve. I have one, and have dimensioned it- it's the

perfect example of a good 'fast road' compromise curve. Reasonable

overlap, good area under the curve, not too aggressive ramps.

It's a good cam.

BUT.

You could easily copy it onto a regrind with a reduced base circle.

It's a huge trade- off between the size of the base circle and the

amount of stress you put on the rockers. We're lucky that we can get

away with a LOT less than stock. 510's can't- they run off the ends of their

rockers. Equating a regrind with a 510, though- well, errr... whatever.

All this BS is really kinda pointless- for a 292, you have a lot of options,

and at that level, you might be able to find equal or greater power

from a regrind. Stresses aren't that high, you probably won't be running

it all that hard, and the price difference is huge.

But if you WANT a proven design that's easy to use and well- known,

and have the dosh, a 292's not a bad choice.

If you want more bang for your buck and don't mind experimenting a bit,

regrinds are very cheap and CAN make power.

It's a personal choice.

What I've found is that as you get over .400", Dr Schrick becomes

more and more attractive. This is where you run out of meat in the

stock stick, and also are running faster ramps- much more science just

to keep things from wiping. And even there, there are horror stories.

Ken, I was running a Racer Brown '325' grind for years (I THINK it was 325)

Not all that much overall lift at the .400 range, but a bunch of area under

the curve.

It's still my 'well, how much better is it ' baseline.

(and no, I got your message weeks ago and haven't called you... I suk)

t

[aa/fd]

Toby very interesting, Racer Brown, is a name out of the past and was highly regarded as a cam designer although mostly known for Mopar profiles, his Datsun 510 Asymmetrical cam profiles were ground breaking when released in the 70's.

If your interested in cam history and philosophy read Harvey Crane's site

full of a lot of good stuff from an old guy who saw the movie

http://www.harveycrane.com/