1800 NK restoration prject

[rey949]

Nathan,

in speaking with Dan we will also have a crank sensor. Dan had an s14 style crank pulley fabricated to work with the system.

From what I gathered the Cam sensor will signal within a range and the crank sensor will trigger the batch or sequential firing system.

If you want more detail once we get going I can post.

let me know...

thanks,

Rey

[roadhog0]

Nathan,

in speaking with Dan we will also have a crank sensor. Dan had an s14 style crank pulley fabricated to work with the system.

From what I gathered the Cam sensor will signal within a range and the crank sensor will trigger the batch or sequential firing system.

If you want more detail once we get going I can post.

let me know...

thanks,

Rey

Yes please. You can email me if you wish too. The reason I'm thinking about it is because running a crank sensor has the car firing at both intake and exhaust strokes. Running something on the cam fires at the right time

[ziff73]

Just read this whole thread.....freakin awesome! Great job, can't wait to see some of these cars!

Stephen

[rey949]

Again... slowly , but surely we are getting closer.

Just an update...we are goin with EFi on this car...so trying to configure the fuel supply, as well as having something that is better than before, but still retaining some of that vintage look we want to achieve.

Fuel cells made specifically for the car that replicate the bolt in configuration of a stock fuel tank...

A few pics of the progress...alomst complete. Then off to powder coating and then installation...

Rey

[rey949]

Installed teh engine today

The engines in these cars sit rather forward. Has anyone attempted to use 02 mounts to move the engine and tranny back a few inches?

Any thoughts/experience out there?

Rey

[rey949]

Working on a short shifter setup. Going with a DTM style setup...fit nicely and looks good. The stock shifter in my stock NK has me reaching a little to shift. Maybe this one will be a little more aggressive and easier to shift. Not sure I like that shift boot...I think I will check to see how the stock rubber boot looks...

Rey

[rey949]

Suspension looks a little high; especially in the rear. We used coupe shocks and 2002 springs in the rear. I thought it would sit a little lower...We had to modify the lower bushing on the shocks. Bilstein HD shocks. Maybe after she sits a while it come down a little. I think we will be making some changes to this setup before it is all over...

Rey

[dumpedDAILY]

I was wondering how much you got the coilover set up from GAZ and did you get the full front and rear? I'm scared to see what shipping to the UK from US will cost. Thanks.

[rey949]

I have not ordered the gaz setup yet. I went though some numbers with them. Not a final price as of yett. I am waiting to see how the setup I have currently will work.

Not sure I will be going the gaz direction yet.

Thanks,

Rey

[Mike_B]

Looks great! I'm always looking forward to your updates.

Any chance on making another DTM style setup? I'd love it for my 5-spd conversion.

As far as the suspension goes, I'm very happy with the Ground Control setup made from my original NK strut housings.

I still need some thicker spring pads and an adjustable rear sub-frame for the back, but the front is really nice.

[rey949]

Mike,

Thanks! I will get you the cost on that DTM setup for the sort shifter. There is also a Ball knob you can use on it. I like the thinner style. I will tell you it really works well, the shifter moves like 3 inches total from shift to shift...really slick. I may bend the shaft a little to bring it closer, but I will not do anything until I get the seats in and check the feel that way first.

More to follow.

A pic of the ball knob for you...

Thanks,

Rey

[bluedevils]

Guys I have a general question. Do coil overs provide a complaint ride? like modern cars? TIA

[rey949]

Al,

Coilovers can be setup to match the stock attributes of a street suspension. The great thing about a coilover conversion is you are taking a 60s suspension and bringing it up to a 90s technology. It is more plug and play so to speak. There are a myriad of spring and shock/strut rates so you can pretty much set it up any way you want. Fortunately with our vintage cars we have a few other options left if someone wants to stay with the old shock/spring setup. I am no expert, but I have spoken to a few and this is what they tell me.

Hope this answers your question.

Rey

[bluedevils]

thx rey, Your project looks great.

[rey949]

IF YOU USE THE S-14 CRANK , YOU WILL EITHER NEED SPECIAL PISTONS

OR SPECIAL RODS TO GO WITH IT .

( HOW MUCH HIGHER THAN 10:1 DO YOU WANT TO GO ? )

THE S-14 RODS ARE 9mm TALLER THAN THE 2002 AND ARE SO LARGE ON THE BIG END THAT THEY REQUIRE

SOME MATERIAL TO BE REMOVED FROM THE BLOCK . THE M-10 RODS WILL FIT THE S-14 CRANK JUST FINE .

THEN THERE IS THE COST OF NEW S-14 Vs. M-10 ROD BEARINGS . (S-14=$$$)

DO YOU HAVE THE S-14 PULLEY TO GO WITH YOUR CRANK ?

IF YOU DO , IT IS NOT HARD TO BORE THE HOLE IN THE TIMING COVER TO

FIT A S-14 CRANK SEAL .

IT IS ALSO POSSIBLE TO MACHINE THE CRANK TO ACCEPT A M-10 PULLEY .

THE S-14 PULLEY STICKS OUT FARTHER AND WILL INTERFERE WITH THE FAN . I SOLVED THIS PROBLEM BY TAKING

THE FAN OFF AND MOUNTING THE BIGGEST CFM PUSHER FAN I COULD GET TO FIT IN FRONT OF THE RADIATOR .

A SPACER UNDER THE FAN COULD WORK SINCE THE INTERFERENCE ISN'T THAT BIG . I WAS NOT

COMFORTABLE WITH THAT OPTION ON THE 2002 BECAUSE THE FAN IS ALREADY SO CLOSE TO THE RADIATOR .

BELT CHANGES WOULD BE A NIGHTMARE AND THE FAN DOES FLEX TOWARD THE RADIATOR AS THE MOTOR WINDS UP .

THE 1800 MAY BE A DIFFERENT STORY .

OK...SOOO I posted a question on the NK Forum about moving the engine back a bit because it sits kind of forward in the engine bay.

My REAL reason behind this was because with the stroker crank (S14) the front crank pulley sticks out farther in front than the '02 crank pulley; thus leaving no space for the radiator.

This question came up early in the build. RIMSPOKE chimed in, and with his infinite wisdom, was obviously correct about the crank sticking farther out when you swap out and build a stroker engine.

We discussed this happening and came up with a plan to move the engine back 2 inches to accomodate this situation.

You can see in the picture we had new motor mount brackets fabricated to move the engine back two inches.

This was enough to accomodate the fan as well as not alter the car whatsoever.... I really wanted to stick with what I had, but this worked out much better for this situation.

We also came up with a plan to remove the clutch fork, and or slave cylinder with a interesting setup that Dan came up with. More on that in the next update. For those of you who want to put a stroker engine into your NK you now have an alternative to altering the transmission tunnel in your car.

More to follow....