engine and drivetrain tii won't start ... any ideas? Here's the scoop...

[Guest Anonymous]

Car was in winter storage until about 2 weeks ago (and still has same tank of gas w/ fuel stabilizer). It started up fine and I've driven it around a bit with no problems. A few days ago I ran a short errand in town and when I came back out (about 10 minutes) it wouldn't start. The engine would 'catch' (start) and then die immediately. I tried starting it a number of times always with the same result. It starts, then dies. Throttle application while starting makes no difference. I suspect a fuel problem but haven't spent any time yet trying to narrow it down. My current suspects are:

- fuel filter plugged or similar, ie not enough fuel

- fuel pump, I can hear it but need to check that its sending enough fuel

- ignition, plugs, wires, etc. but this seems less likely

Anything else to add or do first? I think I'm going to start with the fuel system and then to electrical. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Karl

'73 tii

[Guest Anonymous]

to the starter selonoid, if this wire is disconnected it will do that, because it happen to me, I'm not sure if the 73 is the same.

[gnarlycreature]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but was this ever resolved? HAving a very similar issue in the tii.

[BillWilliams]

It sounds like the car is running off of fuel that the fifth injector (cold start valve) delivers, perhaps not getting any fuel from the Kugelfischer.

 

Check the things you suggest but also add the cogged belt that drives the Kugelfischer. It may be broken or "jumped time". If it is broken, order two. Carry one in the spare parts box.

 

If that is not it, report back, there are other things we can think about.

 

Edited August 8, 2013 by BillWilliams

[FB73tii]

Notice that when the crank pulley notch is aligned with the plastic raised tab on the lower belt cover (marked in white in the photo above, lower), the notch in the KF pulley will not necesarily align exactly with the notch in the aluminum KF injector pump front cover (marked in white in the photo, upper). As has been covered in previous posts, alignment is often off by about 1/3 of a KF pulley tooth. So, don't worry if it is not exactly aligned, just get it as close as possible.

 

BTW, I have never heard of a KF belt in good condition "jumping a tooth". Can't imagine how this would happen, the KF pump turns very easily by hand, almost no resistance to cause such a jump.

 

This thread is related to another thread--see it for a photo of a used-up KF Gilmer belt:

1972 Tii Crankshaft And Camshaft Resistance
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/143552-1972-tii-crankshaft-and-camshaft-resistance/
 

--Fred '74tii & '69 DCOE

Edited August 8, 2013 by FB73tii

[BillWilliams]

The last point is a good one Fred. I have seen a worn belt shred a few teeth and first look, the belt may look good but the shredded teeth on the belt will cause it to go out of time. So what I was inferring to check, is not only is the belt there but not out of time by a few shredded or worn teeth.

[tiitouring02]

I'd agree with Bill that's its probably about the Kfisher belt. If you've never changed it and you have no record opf anyone doing it, that's likely the culprate.  Jumping teeth shouldnt result in a No Start, but the belt breaking will...Ask me how i know.   I ended up replacing mine on the side of the interstate. Mine was original, and had finally desintigrated.  Luckily i had one in my tii roadside repair kit (thanks BT!)  Same exact issue, it would crank, catch and die.  You should be able to take the bolts out of the top of the cover for the Kfisher belt  and open it enough to look in.  Have someone crank the car and watch the pump pulley. if it doesnt turn, you're replacing your belt.  As Bill says, buy two.

 

 

[tjones02]

Huh, the belt on my parents' Tii lasted 225k miles... Yes it shredded, yes the symptoms were as described above.

Worn teeth on the pump pulley are usually the culprit of a loose belt and being slightly off in alignment. For many many years the pulley was NLA, but in the last few they're available again, and actually at a pretty reasonable cost. So, if you have an original pulley on your injection pump and the timing marks are slightly off then consider a new pulley.