Mars

Yes. Walloth & Nesch is very well known. Excellent parts supplier over the pond. Go here: http://www.wallothnesch.com/e/frameparts.htm

This one is saved on my favorites especially since I just let go of my '70 chamonix (to be picked up next week). Me likes a LOT. Perfect fit and finish. I've been wanting a Polaris 02 for some time. I was bummed when Jake up in Canada did not sell me his Polaris Tii This is the nicest Polaris I've seen since then. Watching to see when the price soars on the auction, though. I might just put my max bid in and be done with it. So, you'll have to bid against me. I saw it first!

Most excellent color too, by the way. Looks Anthrazit but that color wasn't available until 74 & Derby pre-dates this model so I can only assume it is a respray color change.

Delia, as usual, is correct. This *could* be a model 71 car which is basically a 71.5 or newer body trim. The VIN will reveal all.

They're getting a bit harder to find these days but there's still plenty of them around to be found. Most guys here have at least one in their trunks! The more 'rarer' variant are the cool 13x5 early steelies that came on the 71-73 Tiis. Sherman Martinez is always a good source for a set of these as I bought some from him many moons ago when I restored a 72Tii. If you get a set of 13x5's with the dog bowls that's a cool look since they're a bit fatter. I like that look. Very clean and original old school. On one of my 02's I have the stock original wheels it came with.

Yo no sabía que aqui había tan muchos hispanos en este foro. Saludos de este miembro. Yo soy Espanol y Puerto Riqueno. Yo vivo en Pennsylvania en los Estados Unidos.

MikeO, Surprised to hear that double-clutching does not help you on the upshifts. In all my experiences you should not be hearing any crunching. Typically the synchros go bad between 1st and 2nd. Yours is 2nd to 3rd and I know the spin time/revs are a bit different/longer but double-clutching should have eliminated the sound. Anyway, the early and late trans' are all interchangeable (for the most part with a few rare/small exceptions like 3 bolt and 4 bolt output flanges, etc.). All transmissions have a date cast inside the bell housing just above the input shaft. You can tell what year they are from from that. B&W units pretty much surfaced after '68 after BMW got tired of so many complaints and recalls for failing trannies. So, a '69 or later build will be fine for you. The porsche style synchros are usually found on very early (66-68) models and some 1600's up to '71 but by 69 the larger % of 02's had the newer B&W synchros. I would shoot for a 71+ trans to be sure but if you've ever owned both you can tell right away from shifting if it has the buttery smooth/soft porsche synchros or if it has the more 'brassy' sharp B&W synchros. M.

Edgar Butler is well known within the 02 community. He's been around for a long time and buys/sells 02's frequently. Conditions vary and for the most part he prices accordingly. He's an older gentleman and not always quick to respond online. Usually a phone call will yield you better results. Some will tell you he is fair and others will say to watch out for him but without knowing the specifics of all those dealings I reserve judgement. For the record I am not acquainted or affiliated with Edgar in any way but reputations get around if you've been around long enough. I spoke with him one time a couple years back and he seemed to be a real nice guy and very helpful. That said, did he tell you the odometer was accurate? I doubt it. Most of these cars even with rebuilds are always off when it comes to the odometers. Very few take the time to take it apart and zero it out on a rebuild so YES, most likely that is NOT the correct mileage. The motor's source can be verified by the VIN on the block. We can tell you if it truly came from a Targa Euro or not if you post it. The condition (if rebuilt) can be identified too. Does it have any leaks? Do you see newish nuts and bolts throughout? When you look inside the head (through oil cap) is it clean or is the head stained in "oil brown"? The knock could be as simple as your valves needing adjustment. Sometimes even after a rebuild they have to be gapped. Other times the eccentrics will come loose on fresh rebuilds. They should be done every 20k regardless. Take the valve cover off and verify your valve lash/gap is .006 - .008. Other than that, make sure you are using good oil. I recommend Castrol GTX or Valvoline both in standard 20/50 dino oil. That may also quiet down your knocking. Other causes for knocking *could* be your distributor. Take your cap and rotor off and drop a few drips of motor oil on the felt. Your distributor could be dry and/or knocking from wear. Check for distributor shaft play. Other than that, I recommend a basic tune up. It's a used 30+ yr old car. Even with an engine rebuild you can't assume that all of the tuneup stuff has been done. I go over all of my cars to make sure. So, replace your cap, rotor, plugs, wires if needed and if you are still on points replace them and your condenser. Set your timing, point gap and with the oil change you should be good to go and you will know for sure the car is all set right. Tune the carb, too. Cheers.

A few more options for you. 1. We don't know exactly what noise you are hearing so allow me to suggest a tranny fluid change. I don't know if you use dino, synthetic, old or fresh gear oil but some times some noises (mainly whining sounds) will go away with flushing your trans' gear oil. If you are using synthetic switch back to a heavier weight of oil. 2. The easiest, cheapest options as the others said is to find a used tranny. On average $50-$125. Make sure it doesn't 'whine' and buy from reputable source/seller. You can't really 'test' a tranny outside of the car. 3. Cheapest option of all (and least labor intensive=none) - If you are not restoring this car and don't care about having everything 'perfect' but just want a solid driver and, if you don't want to swap/fix your tranny but also don't want to deal with the crunchy sounds just double clutch it. You can double clutch it forever this way and you'll have no noises to deal with at all. The synchro is already shot it's not going to get any worse but by double clutching you will eliminate the noise AND prolong clutch life throughout the other gears. With this option you have to do nothing but change/improve your driving habits. Cheers.

If I come down to PR (which I'm overdue) can I swing by, check it out and take it for a drive?

I never get tired of seeing someone post pics of their cars Especially when they are super clean and sporting rare® colors like your siennabraun. Excellent car.

Pretty much since they are dependant on external emissions controls or other external air/fuel mixers. I'm trying to think of something my old brain may be forgetting. Going to call my older brother and see if he remembers something about these... Anyone else have any experience with these types of carbs?

Yes, but rarely. For the most part any Weber 32/36 you see on Jeeps, Fords, Datsuns, etc. all have it but I do know of two occasions where I saw them sealed. One was on an old Ford Escort my brother had briefly back in the 80's. It was stock and plugged for Emissions reasons. The other time was in a funky Jeep Wagoneer and that one had the idle mixture settings inside of a throttle body setup. Where'd it come from??

That bumper will fit just fine. Buy it with confidence. FYI, though - That is a post 71.5 model bumper with the rubber impact strips. The side "horns" and entire bumper *will* work on your car but you will have the rubber impact strips over the early (non-impact rubber strips) look you now have on your car. It will not match your rear too which is all chrome. The matching rear for that bumper would have the long bumper horns and impact strips. But, it will fit as they are interchangeable and can be swapped. The only difference between early and late cars are the bumper brackets which determine how far in or out the bumpers are held. Accordingly this affects where the hole in the fender goes too but in your case you can bolt this on with your existing brackets and be done/have no problems. Early cars prior to '72 had the std 90-degree bends, but in '72 they added a twist to reinforce the 90-degree bend (obvious difference). Not unitl '73 did they go to the "Y" support brackets which pushed the bumper out away from the nose another inch or two. Here's an excerpt from Rob Torres describing bumper variations just as an additional FYI/Trivia post. Rob wrote this up over 7 years ago on Roadfly and I kept the post as a good reference. Bumper Differences: US vs. European 2002 Models and Years by Rob Torres 67-71 Front US: larger “bumperettes” (“short” ends) European: small “bumperettes” (“short” ends) Rear US: large® “bumperettes” (“short” ends) European: license plate lights inset into the bumper and spaced for the long european plates. These have chrome “cover caps” to hide the bolts at the adjoining pieces. (“short” ends) 72 & 73 Front US: the 72 and 73 have a rubber strip in the middle of the bumper, although they both have unique bumperettes ( 1 year only each). They both also have 1 year only brackets which on the 73 move the bumper outward to meet US DOT requirements. European: the european fronts use the US 72 brackets because there was no need to space them out. Rear US: rear bumperettes same as for both years. (not year unique though) Brackets are unique for both years as mentioned above. European: license plate lights inset as well, and cover caps. Brackets are the US 72 only. 74 & 76 Front US: Large bright dipped aluminum bumpers with side rubber bellows. These were mandated by the DOT for 5 mph collision tests. With the additional reinforcements needed to make these functional the weight added to the car totals about 250 lbs. European: same as the 73 US model and which were used on the remainder of ALL of the remaining production years EXCEPT the Turbo which used the “early” european bumpers ( “short” ends F & R ) This list will be posted on the new 2002 registry site with part numbers.

if someone knows or gets access to them let me know! I was having talks with him about buying some 6v spare parts (relays, etc.) that he said he had but we were never able to complete a transaction before his untimely demise. I agree he would probably want them to go to a good home or to all the fellow 02 nuts out there. RIP Mitch - cruisin' 02s among heaven's highways....

It is nice and most likely worth bringing back up to par. Especially since it is an early tii and somewhat rare euro model. But it does have some rust issues on the passenger side rockers and fender as well as other small areas. Great car but inspect it real well if you want to buy it. Seller seems honest and trust worthy. I contacted him about it over a week ago and he got back to me pretty quickly and answered all my questions and sent pics. I just decided to pass for my own reasons.

A wider gap will smooth out your engine better especially if you are running a bit rich. No two cars are the same though. Best to experiment and find your sweet spot. It's a bit of a pain in the butt but it will be worthwhile when you are done. I would start at .037 with your setup but move up and down until you find the best application for your car.

hmm... I don't see all of the pics but of the ones I do see between all of the threads I'm going to vote for Koke-head's sleepin' S14. I do like that car.

Single PC 680 under my rear seat. Plenty of juice to start/run my car. NO issues, complaints, problems. smaller, lighter weight and can be displaced almost anywhere you like if you want to do a conversion. Optimas are good too. If you Optima is fine then no need to replace/change

1. yes. it will fit just fine. 2. yes. it has a slight curvature to match the dash and also the indentation which has to match the orientation of the bottom dash. So a 2pc or 3pc dash will work on any 02/combo but using one from a LHD to a RHD will not work.

The screw pictured just below your water choke there (where the coolant hoses go in) is your idle speed mixture screw. There is one just higher up to the left of that which is your idle speed screw (not seen in your pic). There's also the fast idle adjustment screw (not visible in your pic) which is located on the upper right of your picture but is beyond the scope of this thread. To adjust your carb (basics) do the following: With the car off turn the idle mixture screw all the way in as far as it goes. Don't force it though. just go to where it stops. Then, turn it back out about 2.5 turns. This is the carb's base setting. Take your idle speed screw and loosen it until it no longer pushes on the throttle linkage/lever. Then, turn it back in just so it gently kisses the lever barely making contact. Now, start the car (cold or already warm). It will run rough and most likely will want to shut off. Avoid messing with the idle screw as much as possible. Then, take your idle mixture screw and turn it a quarter turn each time. Listen/feel for the motor to shake more or smooth out. Go a qtr turn each way until you find the sweet spot. It shouldn't be much more than the 2.5 base settings. You should realistically be within a half turn out or in from the 2.5 mark. Or, even exactly at the 2.5 mark. After that adjust your idle to the desired rpm range (800rpm - 950rpm average). It can be as low as you like so long as the car is smooth. Note: Adjusting your carb properly depends on * spark plugs being clean/not fouled * timing to be set properly * points gap to be proper * carb to be cleaned out (use carb choke cleaner) * wouldn't hurt to clean out your idle jets. Judging from your pic your carb could use a good cleaning. It may be time for a new fuel filter too. Use carb choke cleaner to clean the exterior of the carb to remove all the gunk, etc. It can cause binding of all your linkage and moving parts. Clean springs, base, everything. WEAR GOGGLES. Carb choke cleaner much like Brake parts cleaner flies out at high pressure and loves to spray back into your face and eyes. You don't want that. Trust me. Most everyone here can tell you how unpleasant that can be... After all that you'll probably want to adjust your automatic choke/fast idle adjustment. Come back when you are ready good luck.

This is typical of new seals. Sometimes they never 'break' in. I restored a Tii years ago and after putting those new seals on I had the same problem. I tried adjusting my doors by moving the strikers a bit which helped a liltle but I always had to slam my doors. I sold it several years later and it STILL needed the doors to be slammed shut. Some have tried soaking them in oil based products a bit to flatten them out some but I don't know if that has worked or not. Good luck.

Took the ol' gal out today very briefly in the late afternoon after the rains died down. I've been wanting to take a few pics of the car among the fall foliage. I took a few cool shots. This one pic below I am dubbing my "Roundel Cover Shot". The other pic attached is just a cool shot of our cars at a roadside barn house during our Watkins Glen trip back in September of this year. I threw it in just for fun since I was looking through a recent batch of pics. Bo Black's red 02 is one of my all time favorite 02's ever. 02 credits for the second pic are: Mike Pugh's red touring Bo Black's red 2002tii Skips' kickass green 2002 Chris' (Stone) white baur Mike Leeper's Fjord 2002tii Mars' (me) Chamonix 2002 Keith Kreeger's 74 2002tii Tom's green 2002 just a little bored and felt like postin' pics

No tags but it should have a white "S" on the side painted on under all the dirt/grime. Other than that you would have to open it up and count the teeth to determine the ratio. In order to verify you have a limited slip you can jack up the rear and spin the tires. If they both go in the same direction you have a LS. If they go in opposite direcitons you have an open diff. cheers.

Nice wheels > Are you sure they aren't 195/60/13 tires on there? BWA's come in a variety of sizes but the most common ones found on 02's is 13x6. My BWA SportStars are 13x6's: