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Highnote1

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Everything posted by Highnote1

  1. Highnote1
    I have messaged him! Just waiting on a reply. I do need a box though..unless he may have an extra. Thanks!
  2. Highnote1
    Trying to go back to stock after years of push button activation. Anyone got a working one?
  3. Highnote1
    I am on my second set of bumpers. The finish is amazing, price is excellent…you may have to massage some fit here and there. My first set, the rear shorty was really funky and had to use washers to adjust angles of the ends and this current set on the Tii, the front drivers side ear needs some massaging. Can I ask how much their trim molding is? They didn’t even offer that the last time I purchased from them!
  4. Highnote1
    Pedal rod was twisting in arm before engaging so never reaching full throttle. Tightened everything up and reset full throttle with pedal pinned with pump…I now know what a Tii feels like! Runs good!
  5. Highnote1
    Ok..so now seeming like a pedal issue. Notice the dead zone with no spring back? Again I get full smooth operation from engine compartment but pedal is a mess. I feel none of the spring back in the car that I feel from engine bay. IMG_4425.MOV
  6. Highnote1
    To update. Pinned the kugelfisher at full adjusted all to spec using following information. Pedal is pinned. When released, flooring it again does not allow it to go to full throttle. Adjust at pedal box now for that last little bit?
  7. Highnote1
    Okay…so had the wife floor it. The kfisch does NOT hit the stopper when floored? I can push arm down all the way from engine compartment but pedal does not get to full throttle! Where do I adjust? Just right here at threaded rod?
  8. Highnote1
    Will do. I know the filter is right..I wonder if running it around the block the last year or so on weekends has allowed some more crap to release. I do have a gauge…Amazon special…gotta see how I can attach it.
  9. Highnote1
    Yup. I used it. All lines are new when I was getting it going since sitting from 2009. New pump in back and new filter up front. This is one thing I noticed today that could maybe be something. When I used to turn the key and the pump came on with the hood open, the hose to the cold start valve used to almost jump as pressure got to it..now I have to watch it really carefully to see any motion when I tune the key on. Dunno!
  10. Highnote1
    New strainer on after I had the tank boiled and flushed so hopefully no junk….but I will check again and report back.
  11. Highnote1
    Will check. I do have all new measured linkages so I know that is not a weak point.
  12. Highnote1
    Long sitting 74tii up and running. Replaced starter recently and have adjusted valves…happy to report all cylinders showing between 190 and 205 on my compression gauge. Feeling like it will not need a rebuild. I have a steady idle about 950 or so, is a little slow to start after sitting a week but starts right up if I start it every day. Timing looks to be correct with adjustable timing light at idle and is advancing to 28-30 at 3000rpm so distributor is hopefully still kicking. New plugs, cables,caps, rotor… My issue is to me, it feels pretty flat on a hard pull, like it couldn’t get to red line if I wanted it to in 3rd in particular. Is it time to send injectors or kfisch off? If advance is happening, is it just not enough fuel zapping power? What else can I check before sending stuff out?
  13. Highnote1
    My least favorite repair..doing that the first time…I thought I would never get it back together. 🤦‍♂️
  14. Highnote1
    Is it genuine Bmw or aftermarket? I’ll probably take it shipped to 75025!
  15. Highnote1
    This is a long sitting 2009-2021 car and I got the kugel unseized myself and redid all of the fuel lines and whatnot. I got new linkages which caused wild surging at idle and adjusted timing and tuna can screws. Starts fairly quickly now and have idle around 950-1000 but doesn’t quite feel like it gets all the beans when I go for it. Came from a 76 with a Weber and feels about the same to weaker…compression is below average too but just seeing if the general air/fuel is to blame at all. Chasing some stuff!
  16. Highnote1
    Yes. Exactly. Mine doesn’t even go all the way to it. I read on here that some even move it more to cover it up a little to go richer.
  17. Highnote1
    I have all new correct linkages and a working Wur if that helps. Inside the tuna can, the d cam does not ever get all the way to hole, much less cover it up at all. Is it time to loosen and move that over? Is it off because of the new linkages making everything a little off?
  18. Highnote1
    Branny new alt and bushings and pully. I can turn the fan all the way around but do feel drag. Have not sanded yet or any dressing. Got my Wur all dialed in and now chasing hunting idle. What’s the problem with a belt squeal on start up! 😂🤦‍♂️
  19. Highnote1
    Here we go! Thanks man. Makes sense.
  20. Highnote1
    And …now I have surging at idle?? Wth!
  21. Highnote1
    No ac here.
  22. Highnote1
    You did it! Back of arm was hitting screw end of hose clamp for pressure relief valve! Fixed!
  23. Highnote1
    I can tilt it down (back) but not up towards the front for some reason. Spring is under there…”late style” but not sure if it’s got any guts left.
  24. Highnote1
    My Wur raises when warm pretty close to 10mm…hat is above the arm but the arm does not pivot all the way to the stopper. What gives? Could someone have adjusted the stopper screw and messed all this up?
  25. Highnote1
    It turns and I can turn the alternator with the fan.
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