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Son of Marty

Solex
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Everything posted by Son of Marty

  1. It's also the start of garage sales I've found many good tools at them like a 36" snap on 3/8th extension for 3 bucks, but dwell/tune up gauges are pretty common. Marty has never seen a tool he didn't want to take home.
  2. My recommendation is to drive the car hard for a couple of hours and then getting a set of go-no=go feeler gauges the reset the valves with the .006-.008 gauge making sure the rocker arms are off the cam ramp completely.
  3. Most digital dwell meters will also display RPM's and some are under 40 bucks, or you could keep Tom (mintgrun) as the worlds top Innova salesman and buy one of their fine timing lights he's only 3 away from getting the coveted Golden Timing Light Lifetime Achievement Award.
  4. If you could find a VW Sirocco in a wrecking yard most had the mono wiper.
  5. I would not get hooked up on a color, option or model the condition is, after 50 years, the most important thing.
  6. I'd pack extra gas and get on the track when ever you can, you'll have the time of your life, just remember you're there to learn not to wow anybody.
  7. 2002's don't use threaded in studs leads me also to believe you're running 320i hubs as Andrew said easy to check out. When I remove the calipers I leave all the lines and hoses tight and remove the 2 bolts and hang it off the solid brake lines on the car with a wire tie, don't let it hang on the hoses. The ground section on your calipers just might have been ground down on purpose to fit the wheels which is common on the Volvo big brake convention which also uses the 320i hubs. Hope this helps. Marty
  8. I would beware of all the black undercoating with out seeing before pictures, you can cover a lot of sin's under it.
  9. John it's more than just 2002's requesting the certificates from the classic owners. BMW made many more models than the 02, just none as good😎.
  10. You can also repair the shift platform and linkage to tighten up the shift gates.
  11. From your pictures it looks like your front wheels are way far aft from the normal position, it might be the flairs or a problem with the suspension itself.
  12. Do a search for 74 seatbelt interlock or relay, It's a 74 only deal that keeps the starter motor from engaging unless all occupied seats are buckled up, this was almost always bypassed by unplugging the seat sensors but this still leaves the relay in the system it just thinks no seats are occupied all's OK until the relay wears out.
  13. On the Cannon manifolds some times the enrichment section on the carbs hit the manifold and prevent a air tight seal, it's a easy fix and worth checking out. Also are you using the anti vibration isolation mounts or the solid spacers?
  14. Ah Mike you know it's never easy, but just be aware that cast iron has no give it just breaks.
  15. Please attach a picture of you set up on the car. Your jetting looks reasonable for a 9.5 to 1 car with a stock cam, what fuel pressure are you running and how are your floats set, but if you can't get them to sync I think is your first point of correction.
  16. The power of the buff?........Oh wrong buff. sorry.
  17. You'll see some lift from new strut bearings which you need anyway, if it's not enough it's easy enough to slip the aluminum spacers on top with out removing the strut.
  18. When I was a young lad I remember driving through the rail fright yard looking for a lost car load of cantaloupe and passing a tank car clearly labeled Tetra-ethyl additive and leaking a stream from the bottom valve onto the ground, you Mom was right don't play on the R/R tracks.
  19. With new seals you need to scrub the glue surface on them with steelwool and 3m adhesive remover or the like, it seems the manufactures now use mold release with silicon in it to get them to stick, using screws will collapse the seal and you'll get a air leak and perhaps a torn seal.
  20. I'm with Mike before throwing money at it right off the bat, you'll have other opportunity's to do that soon enough, check the platform mounts and rear brace things are real tight in there and anything out of shape can cause the trans to slip out of gear, the transmission I've seen tend to pop out of gear with some force not the 2 stage disengagement you spoke of.
  21. If you try to get the pipe compression fitting out of the ex manifold go slow use a lot of heat and penetrating oil between the cast iron and rust it is possible to break the manifold so again go slow.
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