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OldBlue2002

Solex
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Everything posted by OldBlue2002

  1. Thanks everyone. Input, output and shift selector seals have been replaced.
  2. The new selector seal is in and the correct front seal is on order. After getting the rear output nut off, I can’t seem to pry off the flange.
  3. I was hoping this was an ad for one of these
  4. Great to hear. I just did a new oil pan gasket and rear engine seal and do have those three seals for the trans.
  5. I’ve removed and cleaned my 5 speed gearbox. Looking at the pictures I took before cleaning it, does the location of sludge make anyone think of a particular seal failure? The grime was mostly found on the rear section. I did find a loose bolt in the circled picture. Also, my research tells me that the three section gearbox is a Getrag 245, but there is a 242 stamp inside the bell housing and a date stamp of 79/80. Thoughts? Scott
  6. At first glance, I thought it may be damaged gasket, but it just scrapes off and reveals the gasket is still intact on the inner diameter. I don’t see the substance anywhere else on the gasket except the interior, so maybe it is just an ancient byproduct of the oil over the years. I plan on using a new gasket and this sealer. Hopefully someone has heard of it before? I understand the theory of using the shim, but don’t see how offsetting the seal by 1.5mm will make or break a good mating surface...especially if there isn’t a noticeable groove on the crank. I’m also not an engineer, so maybe I just pay the $15.
  7. I need to replace my rear main seal housing and have gotten through the step of removing the old one. Pictured below is the old housing gasket that has some residual oil on it, and I’m not 100% sure whether that gasket was failing or if the oil got one it during removal. The gasket does look damaged on the inner perimeter. I have read many threads on the rear seal replacement and am skeptical on two things. 1) The new main seal needs to sit on a new section of the crankshaft, especially if a groove has developed. Should I be able to few this groove running my fingers along it? Can it be seen in the picture below? It feels smooth/unworn. 2) RealOem shows a shim sitting behind the seal, and I’m guessing this is to offset the seal placement on the crankshaft. My original seal did not have a shim and was sitting flush with the backside of the housing. Do I need to press the new seal deeper into the housing so it sits on a new portion of the crankshaft? Thanks in advance. Scott
  8. Pulled the rear subframe and the transmission this past week. 242 got deep cleaned today and the dissected subframe will go to the powder coat people tomorrow or the next day.
  9. OP- I am about to do this on my tii for the second time, and I really recommend what others have said, which is: get an engine hoist from harbor freight ($70), hook it to the open hole/tab next to the flywheel timing slot and firewall, loosen the engine mounts (now is a great time to replace them if needed) and then lift the engine with the hoist until you have the clearance to pull the pan out- it shouldn’t take much. Scott
  10. ISO a serviceable used fuel injection hose going from the K-pump to cylinder #1...the crustier/yellow the better. I lost mine about six years ago (resulting in a small fire) and it was replaced by an ugly, universal black line.
  11. ISO a serviceable, early tii valve cover. I have a 2002 valve cover and a 320i cover that I’d be willing to exchange.
  12. Also, I’ll never be using anything but a 1/4 inch drive socket (or wrenches) on any bolts/nuts smaller than 13mm ever again!
  13. You and Jim are spot on. That bolt goes right into the rear cover, not the block like I had guessed. I happen to have a rear engine seal in my toolbox waiting for the next time I had the transmission/flywheel removed. The EZ Lok is 10.3 mm deep and I can’t tell from pictures of the cover whether there is enough material to accommodate installing it. I’ll be careful, but at least it’s a replaceable component I’ll be drilling rather than the block itself. Thanks for the replies.
  14. So, several years ago I took on the task of changing the oil pan gasket (also did motor mounts the same day). I used the cork gasket (gasp!) and black sealant (silicone I think). Everything went fairly smoothly until I went to bolt up the pan and two bolts sheared off (one in the front and one in the back). Each bolt was installed using a torque wrench, so I’m not sure if those two bolts had weakened or what happened. This past weekend, I went to try removing them and was able to get the front one out easy peasy. However during the aft bolt removal, the tip of the ez removal tool broke off inside the hole. After a few hours of trying to get back where I started, and I’m left with a pretty boogered up hole that appears to be past the point of recovery with the original threads. i have an M6 helicoil (E-Z Lok) coming in the mail, and without intervention, I plan on pulling the pan down again, drilling and tapping a 3/8 hole to install the 3/8 OD M6 ID helicoil. I will also use the “aftermarket” Victor Reinz pan gasket from Blunt, because it looks like the cork/silicone method didn’t stand a chance. I’ll probably try tacking this on Saturday, so if anyone has any experience with doing this or sees any red flags in my plan, feel free to steer me back on course. Scott
  15. Looking to thin out my stash of spare parts. Offers are welcome. Everything is in a serviceable condition. More pictures are available on request. I will attempt to get the lowest shipping prices with USPS. Blaupunkt Frankfurt Münster Radio: $200 sold Wiper arms: one driver, two passenger $15 each or all for $40 e21 hazard switch: $10 sold Drivers interior door handles: $30 each Brake reservoir with cap (brand new) sold Front bumper overrider: $40 Pair of aft reflector assembly: $10 Distributor: Sold BMW hose 11531254681 - sold
  16. My watch, flashlight, wrench...etc tend to fall in those darn holes whenever I’m working under the hood.
  17. Is it push on or threaded?
  18. Welcome to the forum! I am on the hunt for some front wheel well sections, ideally the forward portion behind where the headlight is located. Also, were any of your ‘02 models tii? Looking for a passenger side brake dust protection plate. Scott
  19. I’m asking around to see if anyone has an extra passenger side dust protection plate for a ‘73 tii part number is 34111106473. Bonus points if it includes mounting screws.
  20. Got married just in time before the travel bans started. Drove to prom in this car 14 years ago...only appropriate that we drove away from the chapel in it too.
  21. I truly dislike the location of the 5spd slave cylinder. That is all.
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