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M3This

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Everything posted by M3This

  1. M3This
    Found it: parts #2 & #3 Thanks agin guys for all the help!!!
  2. M3This
    Thanks guys! If anyone knows the Idler Arm nut size and type of nut that it uses that would be awesome if they could chime in.
  3. M3This
    Hi Guys, I bought the IE front subframe hardware kit but it looks like it doesn’t include the nut and washer for the idler arm or the 3 bolts for steering pump. I went to getbmwparts.com as they use to have the classic parts on there but don’t see anything listed anymore. I don’t know the part number either so can’t look it up any other way. can anyone point me to where I can go to order replacements? Thanks!
  4. M3This
    Started front subframe reassembly. New poly bushings, new MVP strengthened arms, IE engine mount and subframe reenforcments, blasted and powdercoated, new zinc plated hardware, and new steering arms and ball joints. Does anyone know where I can buy zinc plated washer and nut for the idler arm? The IE subframe hardware kit didn’t come with those or new bolts for the steering box.
  5. M3This
    Do you mind sharing some photos?
  6. M3This
    Hi Guys, I was checking out Paul @ Son Of Cobra's car and saw his Tilton install, but was wondering how many other have done it and if there is a parts list. Paul's seems to be a firewall mount with the fulid reservoirs nicely tucked away in the cowl by the wiper motor, I think he might be reusing the stock accelerator pedal: I have also seen some others on here but cant seem to find them any more where they use a complete (3) pedal assembly from Tilton or Wilwood that mounts to the floorboard. Anyone have any insight in the installation process? Why one would got with one style over the other? I'm panning on the IE Willwood 15" kit front and rear and know they need to be matched to the brake kit since it eliminates the booster. But any other information as far as whats involved in the install and what to look out for would be appreciated.
  7. M3This
    After vid is up on the blog now:
  8. M3This
    It’s definitely been a little bit of a stressful experience. Found more issues then expected but I guess it’s better to take care of those now then having to worry about them later lol.
  9. M3This
    Car finally got shipped of to Metal Works on Oct 4t, but due to their back log it sat their patient waiting until last week. Last week it finally hit the hot tank which removes most of the paint and body filler. The hot tank is the first step in a two part dipping process where its submitted in a chemical and heat mix at 200 degrees. This step is the main step for cleaning. Video: After it was in the hot tank for two days it came out and was high pressure cleaned and looked as follows: As you can see it removed the majority of the paint and body filler, but a lot of the rust remains still. The 2nd step of dipping process involves the body going into the acid tank. This accomplishes two things. 1) It removes the rust and 2) it neutralizes the base paint removal. Below is the final result: Im super happy with how it came out. I knew the car had some bad body work over the years and had a terrible repaint so to see the metal this clean is just amazing. Next step is the car is heading over to Bart @ The Resto Shop for rust repair next week.
  10. M3This
    Wow I’m surprised the stock set up is actually less weight. Thanks for sharing.
  11. M3This
    Random question. Any weight savings over factory? I would think so, but curious as to how much.
  12. M3This
    she came out of the hot tank but goes in the acid tank tomorrow (Monday). Here is the pic they sent me:
  13. M3This
    She went for a dip: https://www.instagram.com/kris.derentz/reel/CYkhOnsBepO/?utm_medium=copy_link
  14. M3This
    I bought a set of these from IE and my side by side comparison they are super close and really nice quality. Only thing I didn’t like is the large MVP stamp in the metal but it will be covered by the door panel. I haven’t mounted them yet so not sure on fitter as my car is currently getting dipped and should be heading to the body shop next month. Can report back more once we get them mounted.
  15. M3This
    Just emailed them for more info, but it looks like we might be in luck. If you head over to their site it lists they currently have a calibration for the 2.0 B48B20 I4 DI Turbo 265bhp BMW Kits | scs-delta WWW.SCS-DELTA.CO.UK SCS Delta have been running modern BMW engines in engine transplants, race cars and road cars for many years
  16. M3This
    I appreciate the feedback. Thats good info for sure.
  17. M3This
    I’ll check them out. Thanks ??
  18. M3This
    The early model N20s were the ones that had the issue due to a plastic timing belt guide that would fail and the whole motor would be ruined. On the newer ones I believe it was corrected. Check out that link I post led above. The Motec is capable of dealing with the DI as they are running it on a N55 so it should be capable of running it on other motors. It’s just a matter of getting that base map and how much a tuner would charge to get you there. Here is the quote for the Motec forum about the mods on the car: ”Yes, all OEM engine.Mods are:Bosch 044 lift pump to supply DI pumpM182 ECUBorg Warner EFR Turbo with external gates (Twin scroll)Aftermarket IntercoolerCustom Exhaust header to fit turbo with Akrapovic silencer box. DI Pump, stockInjectors, Stock,With a single scroll variant of this turbo it will spool later but flow better at the top. Note the spool of the M182 engine versus the OEM engine” sorry for the huge font not sure how to fix that on mobile.
  19. M3This
    Sorry to bump and old thread but curious if this went anywhere? with the prices of S14s these days this swap is looking more affordable. While looking online I came across this: https://www.motec.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=2157 its a race 3 series running a N55 with direct injection and running a Motec. If they can get that running is should be possible with the N20 or B48. I’m just curious if there are any Motec tuners in the US that could handle the job.
  20. M3This
    Hi Jesse can you DM me with the directions? If its just bolting the starter back on and running jumper cables to a battery that sounds fairly simple to do.
  21. M3This
    nevermind. I guess it’s difficult to do after the motor is out of the car. ??‍♂️
  22. M3This
    i forgot to take a vid of it running before pulling all the electrical when stripping the car. I’m happy to do compression numbers if someone can guide me how to do it. I think I can get a compress check tool from the auto parts store but do I just spin the pullies?
  23. M3This
    Yeah I thought I priced it fair with all thats included. Had a couple of PMs but not really looking to separate everything.
  24. M3This
    Hi guys selling my complete drivetrain out of my car. History on the engine can be found here: Engine was running when pulled from the car in September, clutch worked fine, and no issues with shifting on the trans, sift linkage included. Motor has a Weber carb on it and includes all accessories (starter, alternator, fan, belt, pullies), has original head, and exhaust manifold as well. Also included is the driveshaft and rear diff. Any questions please let me know.
  25. M3This
    Too rich for me. I think its worth some decent money but too much at $23k plus buyers fee. I love that’s it’s a ready to drop in set up but cosmetically it’s just “ok”. And looks like it still needs a lot of clean up. At that price I would rather find a core at 10-12k and have it rebuilt and have a painted block, and various other cosmetic upgrades like powder coated valve cover and carbon intake.
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