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mttpekin last won the day on March 18

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  1. It's about time for an update. I've been working on these for the last couple months. All custom and off shelf parts are finally in stock. That encompasses 10 suppliers and 4 guys that do various mfg processes for me. Chromoly plate came from Chicago, bushings inbound from UK. Each arm has 29 parts so a total of 58 for the set. Materials pricing and availability is ever changing. Apparently fox shocks are 9mo-1yr out according to my fabricator. The 'new proto,' pictured below with the set that came off my car, was fabbed two days ago and is 100%. End caps, longer weld interface, bend angle & location etc have been very slightly massaged. I am verifying that they are dead nuts perfect before fabbing the rest. Post machining should be done soon. I appreciate everyone who's purchased. I am excited to see these run hard and hear reviews. There are some quite special cars these are going on so I'm excited for that too. Attached are pics of the stacks of parts awaiting the green light. It's going to be good. More info to follow as we close in on assembly/shipping etc. Thank you, MP -1.8 just looks right. Stoked. thanks guys
  2. Sorry to revive such an old post but I bolted together my machine a while ago and managed to not measure the crankshaft/flywheel bolt circle dia. I don't have any m10 flywheels laying around.. I searched the faq quite a bit but haven't found.. I need the bcd for the 8bolt variety.. Many thanks Matt gettin crafty, this is for s2k 6sp i've designed/test fit.
  3. Finished installing/adjusting/torquing everything around sunset yesterday and took it for a cruise. Drive #1 on my suspension had me feeling pretttty good. The car feels good. I was taking it easy. Springs settled a bit so static camber is probably more around -1.4, -1.5ish. Didn't measure, was way too excited to drive it. Thanks all.
  4. Hi all, This was a pretty fun weekend. I made some parts in 3 days that'd usually take 2-3 weeks.. The offset bushing interfacing piece came out really nice^^. The first boss holds the concave washer much nicer than the prior version. (if you've spent time on the CA central coast, hopefully you're familiar with KPIG) Fabricated revised arms. Top picture shows how the tension arm tube meets with that offset lathe part. A good part of a day of measuring had me pretty confident that they'd clear at full bump. It's definitely quite tight up front but, they clear the subframe with zero subframe modification. That was my goal. stock ride height ^ Tension arm clearance at full bump^ full bump ^ This currently has the camber at -1.3° and 4.08° caster. Matt's Alignment has been in business for 1 day. Setting up an accurate, repeatable measuring system took some time but I am pretty happy with the result. I will be dialing this setup in over the next couple days. My wheels are the e21 et13 mahle and are the wrong offset. I really like how these wheels look but they dont really work. I've been playing today with the stock spare wheel and it has lots of clearance. For a working prototype, these have turned out nicely. Production versions will be optimized slightly. They cycle smooth and have given me the adjustability I want. I am pretty happy with them right now. I will be reaching out to everyone who's expressed interest thus far next week as I better understand production times. Thank you! Matt P.S. Disregard the dirty subframe/engine. I cleaned it a bit and got it running well but haven't pulled engine/dropped subframe as I don't know if I'll be staying with an m10 on this one...
  5. Wow. Thank you guys. Been pursuing this for a while now so thank you. I first drafted a model of what would become these in 2018. This is lookin a little better than my first go at it.. Tension arm clearance at subframe was insufficient the last 1/2" of travel to full bump. That area up there is tight... I went thru 5 iterations of gaining clearance via offsetting the axes of the tubes where they cope together. That would've been ok but not optimal nor pretty so I redesigned the front bushing arm connecting piece and my machinist will have these done $tomorrow$. A little eccentric spinning. This will make more sense when I get on car and photos of installed & cycled. Getting quite close to having a dialed drivable prototype. The first little boss is the diameter of the flat portion of the dished washer. holds that washer flat and off the large 'lollipop' I believe I've replied to all PM. I will update as soon as on car. Thank you again for the feedback as well as future patience. Pit limiter is off, hammers down, still takes time... Best, MP
  6. Yay for guys trying to make parts for the cars we love. These are sweet looking. The dual hole patterns are awesome. RS Watanabe w/ some cn36 is a dream setup. Japanese Italian Fusion Footwear. That's sexy. I was looking at using some miata rotors and a custom hub for a very similar setup. There's sooo many miata rotor options hah mild to wild. I was dealing with wheel clearance issues in my cad. I run 13" wheels. I was mostly interested in this as an option for making custom offsets available. I guess I'm the type of guy who would rather machine custom hubs than run wheel spacers ha. I'm having my mahles hubs shaved this week.. booo. If you're programming the machine and building to order, maybe allowing the customer to be able to spec deviation from 'stock' hub face mounting location would be a super trick option. Is mfg in a steel not an option? That'd relieve my stressing about the whole fatigue thing. Shitty engineer pun I'll see myself out. Excited to see how these progress.
  7. Thank you all for the feedback. I too am pretty amped on how they've turned out thus far.
  8. ugly less ugly cleaned and cleaned and cleaned, replaced all bushing, rebuilt CV etc. Wiped a coat of ACF50 on.
  9. Hello again to the 02 community. After this, I was discouraged by this idea and took a few months break from trying to build these things. I threw a lot of work in the trash... This is my first time manufacturing something like this by myself, so this has been an extensive & expensive learning experience. I’ve actually had a really fun time doing this so hopefully you guys like and I can offer you some more stuff. I’ve designed some other components that I think are pretty cool. My goal was an adjustable setup that retained decent street manners, was really good for B-road ripping, could perform track duty, and didn’t require any subframe modification. I found new machinist/suppliers, dialed in the design, and talked to some people. This is what I have now. This configuration allows a camber adjustment of 2.4°. Stock front end camber is +0.5° +- 0.5° with no provision for adjustment. At the shortest setting, these arms set the wheels at 0°, allowing a 0° to -2.4° camber range. If you want a -0.5° to -2.9° range or +0.5° to -1.9 range etc, let me know. Caster can be adjusted slightly as well. You’ll run into wheel well interference if you try to get crazy. I’ve done my best to build a product I’m proud of. To my knowledge I have cut zero corners and have used the best components that I know of. Each part is made in the USA minus the plastic bushings in the clevis, those are German. All yellow plated hardware is AN aircraft stuff; jam nuts are $3 each... If you’re not familiar with https://www.aircraftspruce.com/, please go look. It’s the best site ever. Super fast shipping and just cool good stuff. Also good chromoly pricing. The big polished stainless joint on the control arm is a johnny joint. I wanted to make a control arm that still had a level of street-ability. I was designing a bushed heim setup to make myself and then found these. They are pretty trick. RockJock mfg'd. The insides look like this: There is a polyurethane bushing inside the large housing that provides damping between the ball and the arm. They are greasable via a zerk and are rebuildable (the innards picture is the $13 rebuild kit) The connection of the tension arm to the chassis is isolated by powerflex bushings. 80A durometer is stiffer than stock but still allows good smooth deflection and articulation. 2piece construction is easy installation. The clevis connection from the tension arm to the control arm is fully bushed. Between the bolt shank and the tab, is a carbon fiber reinforced PEEK polymer bushing pressed into a hole reamed to a tight tolerance. Between the clevis ‘ears’ and the tab are two FRP washers to isolate metal-metal contact. That joint moves very smoothly and has some level of vibrational damping capabilities. When the ‘ears’ are compressed onto the plastic via bolt torqueing, there is no noticeable free play in any axis, yet the clevis can rotate smoothly about the bolt axis. My main reason for doing this was to prevent fretting corrosion as well as eliminate metal-metal contact. Low maintenance is good. The balljoint is lemforder brand, e30 spec. Pressed into a low tolerance bored hole in a ⅝” thick piece of waterjet chromoly. Boring/reaming takes place after welding to insure no warpage. I’ve installed this prototype pair on my car, and am waiting for my fabricator to have some time to make me a new tension arm. He's a wizard. Slight edits are needed. I hope to have my car aligned & driving by next friday 3/26. I will definitely post installed pics. If you’re interested in a set, please send me a PM to discuss. Pricing is looking around 1300. I am trying to understand what the demand looks like. The first 6 pairs are spoken for in my friend group (pending my car drives well, if not I will not sell these) and I want to get spun up on production 2. Many thanks, MP need a haircut
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