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jerryasi
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Status Updates posted by jerryasi
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My perspective on this is a bit more straight forward, I first installed the 123 while the engine was on a "run" stand. An easy positive lead from the ignition to the + on the coil, connecting to the dizzy red. Blue to a good ground, I had a problem with that ground that had in touch with Holland. Then the black from dizzy to the - on the coil. Once I installed the engine in the car, I removed all the relay/resister junk that surrounded the distributer. Just wired like the diagram shows in the install manual. I failed horribly, when I thought I had fried the interior board of the 123 and sent it to Ed Madak at the US 123 distributer. I then tried to reconnect all that old 1974 distributer and associated relays and resisters, never did get it to work. All's back together with the 123, car runs good, still uncertain where to connect the vacuum line, likely another note to Ed.
How's your boy doing in the go kart world? Looking forward to the Russian GP. Go Max! Jerry
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This whole gone K fishing post has me rethinking all that I thought I knew about K Fish adjusting, also makes me glad that I built my engine stock with 265 cam 9.5 pistons and will not mess with the “verboten” adjuster, would like a new plastic cover for it. I do not have a factory air cleaner and do have a shorty stainless header followed by IE’s stainless exhaust; I broke my factory manifold. So now at warmed idle I’m running 10 +- half a point, so too rich based on the K fish post, I need it to be 12-13. On the highway at WOT it stays in that 12 to 13 range goes way lean off throttle. Going to go through your tuna can reset method and see if I can lean things at idle and retain the WOT numbers.
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Are you still in the seatbelt biz? I need a pair for my 1972 2002.
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Hey William, back on the time lapse of the engine install from the underside you posted a photo essay that won't pull up. I just got my car back from paint, have had the engine/trans on a test run stand and is ready to be installed. I like the idea of dropping the subframe mounting the engine and reinstall. It's 74 tii engine so may need a bit more height to clear the plenum. Trying to plan the need for equipment and helpers. The time lapse is good but can't see the lift points and blocking. Thank you for any advise. Jerry
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Hi Jerry,
It’s been a while since I played that game. I recall that it’s more of a production than I expected. I used a 1500-lb engine crane, a tall floor jack, a transmission jack, and 6 jack stands, at least 2 of which need to be quite tall (like 3 feet tall.) I think we resorted to placing tall jack stands on top of cinder blocks. This whole affair is absolutely not OSHA approved.
With the hood removed from the car, raise the chassis using the engine crane chained to the front subframe. You probably won’t be able to get it high enough in one go, as you’ll need to also raise the rear of the car. So raise the front as far as you can, and support the front of the chassis with your tall jack stands under the front frame rails. Then raise the rear via a floor jack under the rear subframe and support the rear with jack stands under the rear subframe. Then raise the front some more, until it’s high enough for you to slide the engine AND the front subframe under the nose of the car. After you get the chassis raised, remove the front subframe.
With the engine and transmission assembled on an engine stand, and with the complete front subframe (all steering and suspension components assembled) balanced on the floor jack, use the engine crane to lower the engine and transmission onto the front subframe and support the transmission with the transmission jack. Depending on the size of your exhaust headers, you might be able to mount them before mating the front subframe back to the chassis. Some measurements and test fitting are likely in your future.
With a helper, roll the complete front subframe and engine assembly under the chassis. Use the engine crane to raise the assembly to mate with the chassis. It’s tricky, as the chassis will be absurdly high, making it difficult to support the tail end of the transmission as the height of the transmission tunnel will likely exceed the max lifting height of the transmission jack. Once the front subframe and transmission are mated to the chassis, it’s best to install the driveshaft and any other driveline components. Then use the engine crane to lower the chassis with engine to a more suitable height and finish connecting the electrical and cooling systems.
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Confuses me as well, the pump that was installed by Bill Williams had the single output pipe, mine as you can see has both out and return pipe. My motivation in doing all of this (my tii tank is sound and my pump works great) but over the 40 years of ownership the tank was abused and dented, got a nice later 2002 tank that was straight and sound and has the single hole for my new pump and required sender. So pump power, I can "Jerry rig", the sender is a bit more complex, just need a wrecking yard with some DOA E30's.
