Jump to content

AceAndrew

Solex
  • Posts

    4,634
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    44
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by AceAndrew

  1. You're very kind, especially since I've felt the same about your engine bay.
  2. Sorry for the tiny posts. The reality is that I've been quite taken up with homework. Getting to do something small on the 02 is a way to incentivize finishing homework during the week. Ran the vacuum lines to connect everything up. Then put in the center 1/2" hose fitting onto the manifold (also from Vibrant), its hose will then run to the booster. Next little project will be modifying the Lokar throttle cable to work with the redline bottom mount throttle mechanism. After that it will be sorting out coolant hoses. Baby steps.
  3. Wack it harder (if you've got one of those rubber/yellow plastic 2 sided hammers, hit it with the yellow side). "big circle" comes out. Yours just has a bit of extra crust that needs to be overpowered. Never needed anything close to a press.
  4. ^ Beautiful! Being in SoCal, I miss the fall colors. Couple father / son(s) projects over the weekend. 1) Silver brazing project using some 2002 parts. 2) Little mounting bracket for the Vibrant vacuum manifold. This bracket was a good excuse to use more of that Alodine. Now to run lines....
  5. If you plan on doing your timing cover (I want to as well)... couple things to consider: 1) You'll want a "water-break-free" finish prior to dipping (essentially when a water drop cannot bead, but rather breaks). (only use gloves when holding your bead blasted parts to avoid recontamination). 2) It's not a long-lasting corrosion inhibitor (like anodizing would be). Given it's a good primer, using something like a clear Cerakote over top will likely be a good way to lock in the finish and have it last longer. 4) Its toxic, so have a proper storage/disposal plan in place.
  6. Thanks! Not a book per-say, just manufacturing methods for aerospace/astronautics industry. Since making the jump from making car parts to making space junk I've gotten to see how much crossover there is in how things are made. There are old NASA papers where you read them and you think.... this guy MUST have been a hotrodder (I think @visionaut can probably speak with more authority on this than I). It's awesome. In the case of alodine/chemfilm, it's used on titanium and aluminum when something is a) too big to anodize b) is dimension critical (anodizing, although more robust, is still too thick on some components). When sending metallics into space, you want to have some sort of coating to prevent cold welding or prevent corrosion while the part is waiting for its ride. Airplane mfg. uses it a lot, but I can't speak to specifics there. There's no super good reason for me to use it on these manifolds, just thought it'd be neat to see how it holds up.
  7. Fun little project this weekend. Took a little page from the aro/astro book of how to do things. When finishing titanium or aluminum in something other than anodizing, alodine/chemfilm is frequently used. It's a corrosion inhibitor and can leave a slightly-iridescent gold finish. Nasty stuff, but thought it'd be fun to incorporate into the car. -blast -rinse -acetone/IPA bath -chemfilm bath (3min. warm. 2/3 deionized water dilution) -rinse (chemical process will keep going until rinsed. too long of bath leaves a very flat mustard finish. Also installed choke delete kits, little white air bypass set screw caps, and drilled/tapped the bottom bosses for the upcoming vacuum manifold.
  8. I make the set that IE sells, used to supply them to Blunt as well, but wasn't able to handle a single-set drop ship system with school/work. Out of respect I won't comment on the SS lines, I'm sure they'll work fine. Just realized I've been making these sets for ten years now, jeez time flies. Yes you can cut back and splice in a line using a female/female M10x1 bubble flare connector. https://www.amazon.com/Inverted-Fittings-Unions-Metric-Threads/dp/B08B46Z14L/ref=psdc_346823011_t2_B07BN2W68Q?th=1 Beware of some cunifer/nicopp line out there now. The market has been flooded with chinese line that has a much higher copper / less nickel metallurgical makeup. If you're going the DIY route, just ensure the line is US or UK made. That wrench is nice to have, just don't plane on reusing the nut.
  9. Neat formula baja. As for skipping class..... since COVID you can find this class on youtube. Case in point, my former professor now has a complete structures II playlist .... for your long-commute listening. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJN7mr1gK7YWprPrRf-hC4beBnPPAkQpV
  10. ..... out of hundreds of m10 rebuilds I've sold parts for when I was at IE, I would be the first (or at least within the first 5) guy to hear when something broke. While infrequent, I would get calls/photos on rod bolts giving way. Rare on street builds (I can think of three-ish instances), but enough to where I'd just rather not start climbing the f-around/find-out curve.
  11. From a pure engineering perspective, as long as the entirety of the metal sleeve is covered... then have at it. Avoid fully threaded fasteners for this, but conversely as long as the thread length is within a reasonable margin of factory then your MS is still well in the clear. From a practical perspective, that area is frequently the most gunked up on the car. Grime-clogged Allen-heads are a pet peeve.
  12. I used a nut w/ reinforcement. Lot's of good threads on this if you search. Here's a quick one.... https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/246148-b-pillar-belt-mount/
  13. They’re getting spendy. id suggest this recent new part Water Divider for BMW M10 Engine POLISHPOWERTRAIN.COM Closest BMW Equivalent: 11531274009, 11-53-1-274-009, 11 53 1 274 009, 11.53.1.274.009 Read our...
  14. Lies and deception. We caught another one everybody! However, you will find many here will go to the ends of the earth to help someone who shows a desire to learn how to help themselves (myself included). The 02 is a fantastic car to learn to work on mechanical-wise. My initial advice is similar to others (read a ton) and put the word out.
  15. easy to put this way… if I’ve got a slightly leaky old engine, then I take half of that engine and seal it up new and tight… then the other half of older leaky bits will see the increased pressure/blow by. In short, the existing issues will be exacerbated… but to what degree it’s impossible to say exactly. I get where he’s coming from. But as long as you realize that your bottom engine issues wont get better and may be slightly more noticeable, then slap it on.
  16. Terribly sorry, I don't recall the color. In the pre-paint phase I sprayed a couple generic light greys on a piece of cardboard and held it up to a NOS bumper section to compare. Thank you, best of luck on your winter project. Finding a good old-school chrome shop will be the main concern. Hopefully Wisconsin still has some left!
  17. Seeing the insides of hundreds of chrome bumpers .... this reflects my experience. This color is close, but not "perfect", but with so many variations the "correct" finish is an illusion.
  18. That hole certainly looks a bit on the rougher side. As mentioned before, nuts on the backside are a nice touch. However, you will need to remove the glass to make it happen. I'd suggest an improved version of what others and myself have done. A securing plate on the backside with tack-welded or brazed nuts. With the nuts solid to the plate, snugging them up wouldn't require glass removal in the future.
  19. Hi Doug, Welcome to the FAQ, glad to have you here. You will find many questions have been asked and answered numerous times before. The articles section and the search function will yield a lot of great information. There are a lot of FAQ members in the northwest and some great shops. My personal favorite is Patrick of Midnight Motorsports in Seattle. You'll find his name mentioned many times before. Looks like you've picked up a great looking early 02 hotrod with lots of fun bits. I really like the interior choices. Despite the very cool engine bits, you'll find a number of us are rather skeptical about the HP claims. However, at the end of the day it's got to be very very fun to drive. Andrew
  20. I could be wrong, but when I was hunting for my StihlAuto Diana wheels, I found that the wheels you posted existed. They looked fantastic, but after a year of looking, I never found a set come up for sale. Not surprised they sold quickly. Bummer you missed them, best of luck on the wheel hunt.
  21. Always enjoyed his input here. A reminder how fleeting our time is, he will be missed.
  22. nope. ain't no way. This isn't a Monza or Lake Bugatti. Nice parts though.
×
×
  • Create New...