4x2

1" to 5/8"

Or, more likely, they would have said: was ? Lemons, nein, wir verkaufen keine zitronen.

It's great fun, it's a 2 hour /130 mile drive for me. Just try not to crash or spill any fluids, they can (and will) make you pay for the armco and the time they have to close the track (which adds up FAST !!) And it's still a public toll road officially, so german traffic laws are in effect (keep right, overtake on the left and so on) But if you ever get the chance to take a few laps, go for it, it's an amazing track.

Right, didn't think of that, on the 02 you can't screw up the u-joint phasing. Front part is strictly a balance issue, just mark it before taking it apart and it's fine. That's one plus for the e30 driveshaft though, if you forget to mark it there's a 50% chance you get it right the first time if you look at the u-joint phasing. Bit more if you look closely at the wear marks around the sliding part of the driveshaft.

It's the only picture I have, though you can always give realoem a chance But the E30 driveshafts are phased just opposite of the 02 driveshafts for some reason. On an 02 it's ----=]-------=]----- On an E30 it's ----=]-------[=----- The = & ] & [ resemble the u-joints, the - resembles the shaft. Bit hard to explain with words, I had a picture that was posted here before, but can't find it right now.

Just don't use vacuum hoses, it doesn't work (don't ask...) I've been driving with some ghetto mix of old brake hoses and metal pipe for the last 3-4K or so, still fine and doesn't leak. I usually bleed my clutch by just pumping the pedal without connecting a bleeder or opening the bleed screw, most of the time it doesn't take more than a minute of pumping.

Iirc my 318i driveshaft is stretched to nearly it's maximum length with a 318i 2-piece 5-speed which is about 2-3cm shorter than a 3-piece 5-speed. The 6 bolt guibo is 1cm thinner than a 8 bolt one as well, so the nut and sleeve should fit. And it's probably misaligned because it came apart, happened to mine as well. Align the u-joints like on the pic (filename means driveshaft u-joints btw ;-) ), which should give you a 50% chance to get it right on the first try.

I'm using a 4.11 in my own 02 which is (sort of) a DD. It's a 1602, so it's stock and even with a 4-speed I got used to it quite fast (I did some 15K in about 1.5 years with a 4-speed before upgrading) And that means 5000 @ 80. Rpm-wise it's comparable to a 4-speed with a 3.64 (about 4000 @ 80mph) It doesn't bother me in the least, it keeps it relatively fast for a slow 318i engine and an 02 is noisy as hell above 80-90 anyway. And it's doing around 3100 @ 60 (and, in theory, about 130 @ 6500) I usually set it to around 70-75 on my CC when I'm not in a hurry, best cruising speed imho.

1: Apparently the flywheel may differ a bit so it may hit the small metal plate on the underside of the tranny, if it does, just shim/bend the plate out of the way (happened to me twice) 2: The ecu doesn't need a speed signal and neither does the ignition module. And the ignition module doesn't need the ecu to work, just +12V and a ground (the tach needs to get its signal from the ignition module instead of the coil, but that's just a matter of connecting the right wire, check the wiring diagram for an E30) But be sure to check the wiring to the coil, iirc the green and black wires to the coil switch colors somewhere along the loom. And the mechanical fuel pump doesn't fit, so you'll need an electric one.

Probably the exhaust hitting something, the left driveshaft is a likely candidate.

Take the old one out, put the new one in, hook it up, done. They never changed the mounting tabs on the E30, so it should fit without any trouble.

The torque problem can be overcome by just gearing it really short (6K rpm @ 60mph short, depending on the engine etc) Stress on the clutch will also be acceptable this way, they're cooled by engine oil anyway, so burning a clutch will take quite a lot of abuse (and they're relatively cheap and a lot easier to replace than your average car clutch) You'll just have to learn to live with having to rev it all the time. And there is always the option of turbo'ing it. I've been thinking about building a track 02 with a Honda VFR engine, but that's mainly because I really like the V4 sound.

http://home.foni.net/~vbacks/bastellei/bastelM40/Einleitung.html It's in german though, if you need help translating I can give it a shot. And to be honest I would take a M10 over a M40 any time.

It's an external wastegate, it's meant to bypass exhaust gasses around the turbo to control turbine speed (and as a result your boost pressure) Can be internal or external, an external one is usually able to flow a lot more so you won't have boost creep high in the rev range. Isn't really necessary on mild setups. Of om je het vertalen te besparen (this is just a translation from the small text above to dutch): Het is een wastegate die de uitlaatgassen om de turbo heen stuurt om de snelheid van de turbine en daarmee de laaddruk te regelen. Kan intern zitten, kan ook extern zitten, wat als voordeel heeft dat ie groter te maken is en de druk beter kan regelen. Een te kleine wastegate is (hoog in toeren) niet in staat om de druk goed af te regelen waardoor deze ongecontroleerd op kan lopen.

There's a LOT of cops around the nurburgring (in the entire Eifel region actually) If you don't drive like an idiot and take it real easy near any speed limit you encounter you probably won't get pulled over. But if they do, be aware that the german police isn't known for their sense of humour and they aren't stupid ;-) If you happen to see a crappy looking black 02 with dark blue number plates it's probably mine, feel free to say something. I'm from the Netherlands actually, about 30-40mi from the german border.

The C3 code implies it's a high speed bearing, they're commonly used as crankshaft bearings in a 2-stroke engine (but without the shields) Being shielded doesn't worry me, the C3 code isn't really a good thing because a C3 bearing has a bit more play built into it to allow it to expand/heat up and spin at those high rpms (up to 12-14000rpm or so)

I usually stay at the viktoria station camping. Great place, about 15mi from the ring itself (but it's a nice road) and there are usually a few ringers there. Perhaps I'll be there myself, not really sure, it's only a 150mi drive, but I don't know if I'll be back from my vacation by then.

My, basic, advice after performing the same swap: Get an E21 5-speed if you can afford it. If you like a challenge and an abundant supply of cheap 5-speeds, go the E30 way. Speedo thingy can be solved in a somewhat unorthodox fashion. I modified a Suzuki GSXR600 SRAD (97 or so, carbed version) cockpit to shove it into the 02 housing. 3 downsides: -It's about 20% optimistic with a 4.11, either make a new faceplate for the speedo (and subtract 20% from your odometer/tripmete, or don't and boast about the incredible mileage you're getting after your 5-speed install), or use a speedo healer (or whatever they're called). I went with the cheap option and made a new faceplate. -Your car will redline at some 13-14000rpm according the tacho (just make another faceplate, it displays double the rpm you're actually running, so it's quite straightforward) -Unless you have absolutely no life at all,remove the LCD and stepper motor stuff from their prints and re-solder them somehow (like this) they won't go in straight, so they'll be offset to the right a bit (and you have to cut an useless part from the print and cut a few bits from the 02 housing) Not that annoying anyway, I don't notice it anymore. Original faceplates After making new faceplates and painting the 'wood' overlay black. Wiring isn't that hard, you only need 4-5 wires or so If you order a temperature sensor from a gsxr (or any LC suzuki from that era, iirc they're all the same) you get a digital temperature readout. It get's it's signal from the original GSXR sensor, mounted on the tranny bracket and reading 3 of the 6 guibo bolts, quite simple and reliable so far. Fitting the gearbox is a bit of a gamble, you may get away without enlarging the tunnel. But there's also a chance it won't fit since it's a bit wider than the E21 tranny. I decided to take no risks and modified the tunnel a bit. The tranny bracket is relatively straightforward, just measure it and drill 2 holes in your floorpan. Apart from the fact that your downpipe will probably end up inside it, so the exhaust has to be lowerd a bit, reducing ground clearance. Driveshaft can be a shortened 02 driveshaft (and make sure you get the 3 bolt flange from the e30 as well to have it welded on the 02 driveshaft), or you can use the E30 driveshaft, which requires relocating the center bearing mount. Clutch cylinder/TO bearing are the same as the E21 tranny. Rather long reply for saying: go the E21 way

About 110-113 on a gps device in a straight line with my current engine (e30 318i, 4.11 and a 5-speed) Takes a while though, 105-107 is easy, after that it's taking it's time.... Fastest I've ever driven in my own 02 is about 117 downhill on the Nordschleife (fuchsrohre part, from about 3:00 in my onboard bit, but I'm going a bit slower there, about 110, still, not bad for a 1600) With a 4-speed and 4.11, so it was revving to about 7000rpm. Fastest as a passenger was just over 120 in a M42 powered car (with a 5-speed and 4.11) Did take a while, but the faces of people you were overtaking were worth it.

E30/E21 rear disks can be used without turning down your hubs. You do need a small centering ring/spacer (light aluminium colored part around the wheel hub here) And you have to weld the adapter bracket to the trailing arms because there's no room to bolt it with at least 2 bolts. Looking back I could have extended the bracket a bit to use 2 of the original mounting bolts instead of 1, but it has held up great in the last 6-7000M. Brackets took me about 15 minutes a piece with an angle grinder, 1/2" thick steel. I was able to use the stock e-brake cables and you do have to remove the caliper to bleed them, but since that's, on average, only once or twice a year, it's fine by me. There should be VW calipers that fit and are meant to be mounted upside down, I believe they're used on the mk4 rabbit.

Here's another one on an E30 M10B18 Post @ e30tech The turbo itself should be able to pump out quite a bit more (up to 270-290hp, depending on your setup, tuning and luck) I'm going to use the same turbo on nearly the same engine, but on LPG in my 02.

Iirc the driveshaft is the same for all M10 E30 engines with a 5-speed. Here in euro-land that would be the 316, 316i and 318i, in the us that would just be the 318i. The tunnel is a bit of a guess, I decided to cut it since I had to fix some rust anyway and a friend of mine was unable to raise his tranny enough to get the driveshaft straight without cutting the tunnel (he decided to buy a 245, I went with the cheap 240). If I wasn't so stupid as to cut through my rear brake line I would have been done in 2-3 hours. While trying to shove it into the tunnel I came to the conclusion that I probably would have been able to fit it without cutting the tunnel, but only just. The 240 has more of a rectangular cross section instead of the oval cross section of the 232/242/245, so it's a bit wider at the top, though only 1-1.5 inch and it's a bit higher. Not sure about the spline overlap, I believe it's a bit more than in an E30 since the 02 is a bit shorter, but not much. Sorry, no pictures, wasn't really in the mood after lying on a nearly freezing floor for 3-4 days (it's a lot of work if the car is supported by jackstands, there isn't a much room for anything that way) There are a few pictures on this site, but he doesn't use the E30 driveshaft and made his own tranny mount (there's an english description if you hold your pointer on the pictures) http://www.2002turbo.com/02driveline.htm And you will run into some clearance issues with your exhaust downpipe, the 240 tranny mount sits about 1,5-2 inches lower, so the downpipe basically ends inside your tranny mount. I had to reweld it which will also decrease your ground clearance. Bottom line: If you have the cash to buy a 245, do it. If you don't, or you're using it as a track car and like the fact that another tranny can be had for 50-100$, go with the 240.

The funny part is: it isn't a difficult corner, it's just different than most people expect it to be. In my own onboard video the black E46 (just after 3:20) almost hits the curbs because of that and I've seen it happen a lot more. The E30 that overtakes me just after Adenauer Forst is a friend of mine in his 325IX and the red minivan after him is a Opel Zafira OPC (~240hp)

Yep

Take an 8mm drill, drill 3 new holes, make a slot between the 2 holes and use some large washers under the nuts. That's it, I've done the same thing on my car some 6-7000mi ago, but with the original top mount and springs your movement is limited, about 3/8-1/2 or so. Which is still a noticable improvement and it only takes 30min.