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4x2

Solex
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Everything posted by 4x2

  1. The M10 flywheel is pretty easy to fit actually (I've done it to a M50, but the M42 should be the same) Recipe: M10 228mm flywheel E30 325i pressure plate and clutch disc Dual mass E36/E34 M12x1.5x50 flywheel bolts (11 22 2 243 051) 323i throwout bearing (the tall one) Remove the ring gear from both flywheels, some tapping around with a hammer should do the trick, otherwise try heating it a little. Toss the M42/M50 ring gear into the stove, it has to expand 1-2mm IIRC, so it needs to heat up quite a bit (not red hot, but close) Pick it up, preferably not with your bare hands, drop it around the M10 flywheel and make sure it's on there solidly and even. Let it cool down for a bit. Shorten the flywheel bolts a bit, not sure how much it was, just measure the thread depth in the crankshaft, the thickness of the flywheel itself and do the math. Make sure the shortened bolts get something of a bevel back onto the ends so they don't ruin the thread in your crankshaft. And don't forget to use thread sealant. Assemble. I've used the shorter E30 TOB and had to lengthen the slave cylinder rod a bit (10-15mm IIRC) So far the entire setup has been working perfectly for some 35000km in my E28.
  2. iirc a friend of mine ordered a hood and trunk lid, they needed quite a lot of work to make them fit nicely. They are cheap however and you simply get what you pay for.
  3. Not that absurd, only the master cylinder has to leak into the booster, engine vacuum (and some spirited left hand corners) will do the rest. Happened to a friend of mine with an E12 528, it would emit a huge white cloud of smoke after taking a left hand corner.
  4. Yeah, but IMHO getting the driveshaft straight is more important. And at least 1 of the u-joints isn't if you lower the engine without altering something at the back.
  5. Mount the M42 the right way and you don't need the lowered track rod anyway. The metal shield over the throttle mechanism should brush the hood when it's mounted at the right height. Most people mount it too low and then it'll hit the track rod.
  6. Yep, the car is originally a 1602, so with a 4.11 diff. He's changed the diff to a 3.64 on account of his tuned 2.0 And after that he went back to the 4.11 because he liked it better for some reason.
  7. You could try finding a RHD E36 rack, that way it'll turn correctly. They're still to wide though. Or try looking for a FWD steering rack, they usually mount behind the subframe and can be pretty narrow. I've taken some quick measurements from a Hyundai Accent (95-99) steering rack and it appeared to be pretty close (width and steering lock)
  8. I'm using the brakes from the E34 535i (300x22mm vented) since I got them for free. Still stock drum brakes in the rear, it used to be a 520i, not sure if it's worth the effort to change those (it does look better with discs though) I've removed the firewall insulation as well when I swapped the M50, mostly because it's a huge moisture trap.
  9. Well, I just finished swapping a M50 into my E28 and I've used a stock '02 booster to clear the inlet (mostly since the E21 ones I had were all junk) And to be honest, I love it, you have to push harder (twice as hard if my calculations are correct) but the added feeling is great and the effort is still pretty low (more or less like a stock 02, maybe a bit more) And the plus is that you can swap te booster by tossing it into the engine bay from 6ft away ;-) Anyway, nice project, keep it up !
  10. Or put the M42 ring gear on the M10 flywheel. I did just that with a M50 ring gear (same as M42) on a M10 flywheel. The M50 ring gear is a bit smaller, but nothing a lot of heat can't fix.
  11. 2.5" front to back should be fine for some 250hp. Get the biggest muffler you can fit, no resonator and a baffled tip, the turbo itself is a pretty effective muffler anyway.
  12. Trying and swearing is one way. Or try jamming the body of a screwdriver between the door frame and regulator compressing the spring so you can use 2 hands to install that @!#% clip.
  13. Hehe, funny, your transmission mount looks a lot like the one I made for my getrag 240 (with 2 mounting ears) to make some room for the exhaust. I used 2 smaller rubber mounts instead of a large one, but the principle is the same.
  14. No it doesn't, the turbo has to be above oil level and the return needs a constant sloping path, but it can enter the pan below oil level. I've driven my car with the return in the drain plug for about a year (after that I switched to an E30 oil pan) without any smoking.
  15. I don't mind giving info in this thread, if you want full-res pictures however it would be easier to mail me. I didn't really go through with modifying the original manifold (and it's currently hacked to pieces for my turbo manifold) But as far as I could tell it was a matter of removing the downpipe flange and a bit of simple cutting and welding near the collector to make it clear the steering arms. I did take pictures of my mounts, but they look more or less the same as those used with other M42 builds. Just make sure the guibo is straight and design the mounts from there. The tranny has to go pretty high up in the tunnel though, so enlarging it a bit will be necessary. The driveshaft is currently a 318i M10 driveshaft that I shortened myself, but that was purely for aligning the engine, tranny and driveshaft, it's now about 59.5" long and it can slide about 1-2" in either direction. I did get a 320i M20 driveshaft that should be the right length, but getting one of those in the US could be problematic and that from a 325i is too long. Don't know the exact length of a 318is shaft since I couldn't find one, but that might work as well.
  16. Feel free to send me an e-mail when you want to know something, I am keeping a simple 'diary' of my build, but it's on a restricted part of the dutch 02 forum (and it's obviously in Dutch ;-) ) And I'm to lazy to start a translated one (for now at least), so you'll have to mail me if you want to know something ;-)
  17. Small tip for installing the M42: Put it as close to the firewall as you can and as high in the bay as possible, that way the original exhaust manifold will fit with minimal work (not that I'm gonna do that since the turbo will go back on, but it's an infinitely better solution than hacking up a M50 turbo manifold) There's no need for the E28 track rod this way, just remove a small piece from the gearbox and it clears. And you can fit a electric fan between the engine and the radiator (which leaves more room for an intercooler) Here are 2 pics, ignore the mess and appearance of the engine bay, I'll deal with that in the future ;-) The steering box is actually the limiting factor for moving it backwards, it'll hit the alternator.
  18. It's from the top. The blue hoses were quite expensive and are in no way an improvement over stock rubber hoses, it's just that this was the only decent way to hook up an E30 325i radiator to a M10.
  19. I've made a new bracket that bolts to 2 of the holes just below the oil filter housing, on the iron block itself. The small black bracket just above the alternator and to the left of the oil cooler hose. I've relocated the alternator to the tii position since I made the bracket (as you can see), but it's still the same bracket. And I should tidy up the engine bay, but it works fine, so mehhh.
  20. Start when it passes 60: 3.6 seconds (not sure in which gear, probably 4th) with a 4.11 and timed with a 5Hz GPS receiver. Stepping on it from 60 won't be much slower, it doesn't matter if you do 50-75 in 3rd or 4th or if you step on it from 50 or start counting while passing 50, so I guess 60-80 will be the same story. And that's with a tired M10 with ~200bhp/200ft/lbs.
  21. Good luck getting all the small pieces of glass out of your car. I'm still finding glass everywhere after this happened a year ago while going 80mph (fun !!!)
  22. I'm running a E30 240 5-speed from my old M10, but it's nearly the same story for the E21 240 (which has a speedo drive and a different mounting bracket) The 240 5-speed is longer than the 242 4-speed from the 02 (about 2.5-3" iirc) It's only a hair shorter than the 245 and it can be more difficult to fit because it's cross section is more of a rectangular shape than the oval shape of the 245 so you might run into trouble at the top of the tunnel. I did enbiggen my tunnel a bit, in hindsight it was probably unnecessary, but only just. The easiest driveshaft solution is by using a E30 318i M10 driveshaft, relocate the mounting points for the CSB and you're done (It'll probably work on the 245 as well since it has a sliding section in the middle) Relocating the CSB mounting points is pretty simple, look at the M42 swap from JakeB in the project blogs for a solution (the added tabs that bolt to the tunnel are necessary imho) I wouldn't worry about it's strength though, mine has been under my E30 for 120K miles and it's been under my 02 for some 20K and about 15K of those with the turbo. And it actually shifts easier/better than most 245's I've driven.
  23. And a few more, 2 of the same 02, 2 of a NK and a general funny one (the tree trunk is in the engine bay)
  24. In Sweden, near Arjang and close to the Norwegian border. They only had 1 or 2 02's and a NK But a lot of other cars as well, nothing newer than '75 or so
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