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M3M3

Solex
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Everything posted by M3M3

  1. yes...too paranoid Toby. i am very particular about alignment (like you...track cars). the serrations are quite small and iirc, one serration on the toe adjustment was less than 1/16th inch change in toe on one side. well under the margin of error created by any play in bushings. i am paranoid about the eccentric version. only took one coming loose on race car during a race to scare me off of that style forever. never had a serrated one come loose. even if the nut backs off a little, the serrations hold it. on an eccentric, if nut backs off even a touch...buh-bye alignment.
  2. and on this point... get a BFH and massage(dent) the manifold pipe slightly where it is close to the idler arm. not kidding. don't be bashful. just a slight ding and you will get all the clearance needed.
  3. locating the transmission mounts is the LAST thing you do in 245 install. install diff loosely, install DS and guibo support back of trans with a jack or something make sure right side engine mounts are LOOSE to help moving trans. now...COMPLETELY IGNORE ANY ALIGNMENT WITH THE DIFF!!!!!! do not use any "DS alignment jig" that goes length of DS. worthless. the ONLY thing that matters is that the output flange of the trans and the input flange of the DS are square to each other. move the back of the trans and the CSB up and down, back and forth to get those flanges square. this can be done by eye, but the 2002sonly tool makes it easy. once they are square, you will now know where the back of the trans should be and where the CSB will need to be. the front and back half of the DS DO NOT need to be aligned. there can, and probably will, be a slight kink at the universal joint. that is ok. that is what it is there for. BTW, in EVERY 245 install i have done(including with an S14), the transmission ended up jammed all the way to driver side of tunnel and all the way up against the top of the tunnel. the CSB's all ended up needing to be moved all the way to passenger side and lowered below the bracket by a few washers.
  4. entire process for installing the adjusters to the subframe is documented in my build thread in great detail. install is for the serrated style...which is the only style anyone should be getting... install info starts on page 62.
  5. was wondering the same thing. all the stock 76 emissions stuff that is supposed to be there is gone. looks like the inspector "gun decked" the visual section of the smog cert.
  6. 1/ ban classified ad thread bumping entirely. that is what the search function is for. if someone is looking for something, they can search for it. 2/ limit new ads to one per day.
  7. yup. seen it. usually an age related issue. some shops don't change the valve stems when replacing tires unless specifically asked to do so. even then, they don't.
  8. Sad that even new ICE cars might as well be EV's. Take the new 2023 M2 for example. - at 4,000lbs, it weighs as much as an EV. - open the hood.... There is no ICE visible, just plastic. - there is zero mechanical connection between the driver and the road. Zero. Throttle by wire, brake by wire, steering by wire . - no actual gauges, buttons or knobs to control anything. Just a touch screen computer display that covers half the dash. ☹️
  9. changing the ratio in your E21 diff? rebuilding it? then you probably need this batch of stuff. 14 side cover shims for setting lash. sizes 1.45mm to 2.0mm. i think these are NLA. at least they were when I acquired them years ago. reset your diff, then resell all the shims not used to someone else. and these new parts..... -inner pinion bearing 33 12 1 206 739 -two pinion crush sleeves...because you aways mess up the first one.. -seal and dust cap -input flange lock plate. $300 for all. shipped CONUS. M3M3M3
  10. the 02 has moved on, but the 4 beemers remain...
  11. If it would fit, everyone who does an S14 swap would use it....... so no. M3 oil pan is several inches too long on left side. this is why the Massive oil pan design basically moves the entire lower oil pan to the right about 3 inches. and the upper pan has to be chopped also on the left side. below pics of stock pan, and the Massive pan showing the offset. here is the massive pan in relation to the subframe.
  12. and of course the best A/C for a 2002 is to......buy an E30 to drive in the hot time of year...
  13. there is no inherent "gas smell" from sidedrafts. source of 99% of gas smell in 2002's is issues back in the fuel tank/trunk area, not the engine compt.
  14. it is really quite easy to drop the subframe down. hang the engine and undo some bolts.
  15. Well . The whole conversation is about front struts. Context.
  16. just look at the alignment sheet specs to see which one is bent. wheel size/offset/tire size/etc have zero impact on camber, toe or caster. hint. stock 02's have close to zero camber.
  17. Sorry, none of that is true. 245 trans is plenty strong enough behind a modified S14. And the six bolt guibo is completely up to the task. Or maybe I am just imagining my 245 trans and 2002 guibo survived 7000 hard track miles behind a cammed, alpha-n, carbon airboxed, chipped S14 with a race clutch?
  18. you are not going to find a damper/spring combination that is happy on dirt, street and track. anything that is fun on a paved track is going to be way too stiff for dirt....and fun on dirt will be awful on track/auto-x. even if you change springs for different events, no good damper is going to be adjustable for that wide a range of spring rates. ya gotta pick one. a compromise for everything will be fun nowhere...
  19. yep. who cares what the resale value of any car is? drive/build/modifiy/restore for what YOU want. not what some possible future owner might value.
  20. something like this. i have a much cheaper one that came with a shifter kit i got a long time ago. https://www.baumtools.com/shop/bmw-tools/bmw-gear-shift-tools/251100-shift-lever-pin-wrench/
  21. or, the PP can do the clearancing for you....😎
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