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ole1.6

Solex
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Everything posted by ole1.6

  1. My experience is the early 1600 like mine are different than the later models on the jamb and the door latch. I am still looking for the elusive part I have attached.[/img]
  2. Here is the latest: I think I'm in Auto hell, cause this is how it would be... No decision on the rotors although I am pretty sure that they need to go. I found a bit of daylight entering the hose with the wire (ouch!) wall support. I replaced it with a temporary rubber hose and most of the pulsing and subsequent vibration is gone. Vibration and rattling bits are being hunted down and I suspect the bushings as mentioned. Now the fuel pump has started squirting fuel into the engine compartment from the little breather hole, the nite before a road trip, of course! Did my Hemi (Work truck) throwin' a rod in gridlock traffic on friday start the trip to "Auto Hell"? Thanks for the great feedback.
  3. I did not even think of that! It is more plausible than any other thought I had. I will change them next week and post results. Thanks
  4. My '67 1600 has developed a front end vibration while braking. It gets quite loud but it is not all the time. The best description I can provde is that it pulses and the front end rattles. If I am rolling up to a slow stop and the wheels are turned slightly. Also if I am braking hard on a decel I get a slight pulsing (no added noise) mommentarily. It does not have a hard pedal and I do apply a multi pump occasionally. The strangest part is the brakes work normal all other times. It does not pull side to side or any other type of failure. I put on new front pads, turned the rotors and bled the system a while back and then this started. I keep thinking maybe my booster is going. I used the vacum hand pump bleed tool, there is no fluid loss or leaks anywhere. Any suggestions are welcome. Eric
  5. My experience was: I stripped the car of all glass, trim ect. They had me circle the bodywork areas and still missed some of them. painted my wire harness in the interior. tried to re-negotiate the price during the job by asking if I wanted to upgrade the paint for better adheision??? and refused to do the body repairs that I marked after it was "done". Tried to charge me for the touchup paint that they included in the original deal. After a few years the paint settled into the bondo and cracks and bubbles start to show. I spent $1200 about 8 years ago and I was disapointed at the level of dishonesty that these people acheived. They are gone now, but not forgotten...
  6. Changing back to stock side exhaust from the Anza center style made 90% improvement to the staining and trunk stink. After reading about the speaker cut-out potential I think that may have caused my headliner to inflate during certain conditions. Namely driving fast with the windows open. Thanks guys.
  7. That's thinking with your dipstick...oh gawd I can't do it
  8. I love exhaust talk! I know i'm not the only person to fart around with this to the bitter end. I had Monza on the 74 Opel Manta and the rear guts broke free pretty quick. The last round has been an Anza saga (in the 1600 BMW) with me going through 2 front sections in 3 years. The rear is in tact and for sale. That baby got loud. Now the IE SS....is a smooth quiet system until I open secondaries. Just good noise and smoke! Now I am not so deaf and can talk on cell phone uh... hear my phone ring. I got red overspray in the same spot. It must be factory.
  9. ...I was gonna say "check that wire under manifold" it's a tricky bastard. What a relief, huh?
  10. Starbucks at Magnolia (HB) @ 6:30, spilling cofee on my hip at on-ramp right after!!! I'll try to remember In and out. Do they have Spam and eggs?
  11. I know they're not twins, But they ARE beauties! The '74 and '75 that is...
  12. I found the solution!!! Profanity, bruised thigh and palm, spilled petrol... Available now! Remember No smoking at the pump or Boom!
  13. Thanks. That will be my official start. I wonder, has anyone tried the listed strike PN # 51 21 1 118 263 with the older latch?
  14. As I recall it was aligned until the rubber gave way. Where did you find the rubber and strike?
  15. This is the drivers side and it is toast. If any one has one for sale I would be very appreciative. Thanks, Eric Ericcomm@aol.com
  16. I have gotten to the point of this worn arrangement that I must replace the strike because the door will not align. Any sugestions (besides traveling back in time) or observations on how this went so bad. Sorry for the bad photo Q, took pics in anger..........
  17. What a beauty! We were dreamfully waltzing through the photobucket pics too. Man, what a great life that Granada baby is having.
  18. Sorry to hijack this, but, I'm in a related condition. The worn part on my '67 is the other end in the jamb or latch striker. Is this P# 51 21 6 742 124(5) suitable for the older replacement? Thanks for any light shed.
  19. So far I may have a unit located here locally but if it does not pan out, I am not opposed to ship. I will post results of pending sale. Thanks
  20. My '67 1600 is in need! I am in Orange County California. Thanks for posts Eric
  21. Definitely the best upgrade I've done on my 67 1600. I started with a triple core and found the fan rub on hard braking. The Hayden 12" with optional thermostat kit works well. I did not want to use the zip style attachments through the radiator fins so I made brackets to zip to. Now there is no need to cut and replace every time I remove the radiator. The sensor is poked through the fins just below the upper hose. She runs cool like the other side of the pillow.
  22. ole1.6

    test a

    blah blah how did the other board die like it did??
  23. My '67 1600 came with a Weber strapped on and the solex carb and manifold in the trunk. I had to run the stock for the one and only time it needed to be smog checked. My opinion was the stock Solex was smoother and had nice power on the low end. I prefer the Weber for the lively response, full range, but especially between 60 and 80 mph.
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