chad
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Everything posted by chad
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I didn't slot the hole but I think I have seen pictures of people doing it in the past. As for locating the new hole for the right mount, I would mount the left side and the transmission first, assuming you have made the room in the tunnel already. Once you locate the transmission, mount the right side and mark your new hole. That's what I did but I had my engine and transmission up on supports so I could take the mounts on and off when I was designing them. You could just mount the left side first and not deal with the transmission. The offset for each hole should be about the same distance. I am also using IE's urethane mounts. They don't have the "nubs" like the factory ones. -
I added a picture to show the 323i radiator in reference to the front of engine.
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I have neglected this post for a long time. Since my last post a lot of changes have happened to the car. After driving the car for a few years after it finished, I was tired of the worn out M10 that I put in. Since than I have been slowly swapping an M20 into the car. My goal was to try and install the engine without cutting the front. I am using a getrag 245 in my swap as well as a E21 323i radiator (modified aluminum E30 M3 radiator). I figure pictures are better than words...
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Do they need to cut the front of the car to allow for clearance?
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UPDATE: I realize that most people in the past use a vw radiator because the stock E21 323i one is some what insufficient for the M20. I largely agree, my gray market 323i (recently sold) ran a stock radiator and would run a little hot while in traffic. However, there is a solution. Some guys with 323s have bought an aluminum E30 M3 radiator and had the lower outlet swapped to the other side so it will fit in the factory location. This mod appears to be a big improvement cooling the M20. I am unaware of anyone who has done this that still have cooling issues with their 323i. I am in the process of determining if this radiator will still fit without cutting because an aluminum radiator is likely a little thicker than the stock 323i. In addition, the price of the radiator and mod will likely be cheaper than a factory E21 323i radiator.
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I officially now have an add in the "Parts for Sale" forum on the FAQ for anyone who is interested.
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Price:: 200.00 I have designed these mount with the intentions of not cutting the front of the car and using an E21 323i radiator so it will look as factory as possible. The engine is positioned as far back as possible without extensive modification to the firewall. The portion of the rain drip tray will need some cosmetic work along with a little massaging of the firewall. My 02 originally was an auto so the manual transmission cars may need a little more. I am also using a G245 transmission for my swap so I do not know if the stock E30 driveline will fit. There may be additional minor modification but my key points are listed below: · No cut for a stock E21 323i radiator; · Need to offset the passenger engine mount approximately 15-20mm; · Minor rain drip tray work for clearance; · Minor firewall work for clearance; · Relocate the shifter hole back; · Shorten the driveshaft; · Stock BMW radiator hoses; · Using a combination of E30 and 02 heater hoses. · Engine is at 20 degrees All pieces of these mounts are cut on the plasma table for a nice clean “factory” look. A complete set of mount is $200 shipped (lower 48). Chad Wallin cwallin00@hotmail.com
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I finally got a round to pulling the old 4sp of my old M10 to see what flywheel I have and to determine if I can use it in my M20 swap. I measured the diameter of the clutch contact surface and it is approximately 228mm (definitely not 215mm). I have ready somewhere that M10 228mm flywheel is identical to the M20 228mm single mass. Can anyone confirm this? I am assuming that if this is the case, I can use this M10 228mm flywheel, E30 325i clutch kit, and E30 325i throwout bearing? Or can I just use the existing M10 clutch and PP and just pick up a E21 323i throwout bearing, similar to the typical 5sp swap in 02s?
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engine and drivetrain The Walloth Nesch Radiator
chad replied to arminyack's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
You can always use the 323i radiator. Early version should mount to the chassis without cutting, assuming you have the clearance. -
I ended up switching shops to get these cut in an appropriate amount of time. I finalized the first set and have order my new contact to cut more. I ended up using 3/16 inch material. I should have these ready very soon. If anyone is still interested in a set please send me an email. Thanks. cwallin00@hotmail.com
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I am using a 245 for my swap but I assume that the transmission tunnel manipulation would be similar to what everyone else does. I did have to take a hammer and dolly to the rain gutter and edge of the transmission tunnel. I likely did not have to manipulate the tranny tunnel but I wanted enough clearance to access the tanny bolts from the back (my 02 was originally an auto). Below are a few picks of the rough in. Once the engine and tranny are pulled I will be finish the body work to those areas.
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Here are my prototypes that I finished last weekend. Prior to fabricating them, I designed them in AutoCAD. Now that I have finalized my design, I am sending it to a local shop and having the pieces cut out on a CNC machine.
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I have one that's in great shape and no longer need since I am completing an M20 swap. I had a 4sp and regularly drove it on the highway with no heating issues. PM me if your interested. Chad
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I had to manipulate the rain gutter to clear the valve cover and had to manipulate the edge of the transmission tunnel a little so I had easier access to the bell housing bolts. I may have not needed to pound out the transmission tunnel but I wanted to make sure I I could pull the transmission a little easier. Right now its all beat up but once I clean it up I'll take some better pictures. I temporarily installed the intake and heater houses and I enough clearance with those. I may need to modify the exhaust down pipe but I need to source one to check.
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[PNW Introductions!] Who are you? Where are you from?
chad replied to S-L's topic in Pacific Northwest's Discussion
I am in Olalla (North Gig Harbor). I restored my 02 a few years ago and then started an M20 swap. Unfortunately the swap has taken a lot longer than planned but I am starting to get some time to finish it. I currently have the engine mocked up again after deciding to move the engine farther back so I wont have to cut the front. Hopefully I can make a drive this spring or early summer. I have a goal to have it finished before Good Guys. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/62-72-restoration-and-m20-swap/ -
I finished roughing in the engine and transmission and it bolted in with with a set of engine mounts that I fabricated. These mounts will be used as a template for a jig that I am going to build. As you can see, the firewall needed some modifications but will not require any cutting up front. All that is left now is to bolt on a few more parts to check some clearance and I will be finalizing my engine mounts. For reference, the the bolt in the rubber chassis engine mount is about centered between the four bolts on the block. I am using an E21 323i transmission and radiator but if anyone else is interested in a set of mounts let me know. If my final produce comes out well I may make a few extra sets for members. I'll keep everyone posted.
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I am running the factory ignition and water pump. There not the best pictures but the water pump is installed on the engine.
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I think I am going to try and source a set of manimal's mounts or fab up new ones. I think I would rather modify the firewall than cut the front.
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Peterschop that is the one. Thanks.
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I have looked for the past several hour looking for a picture that is floating around the website that shows the stock 02 pump , an E30 325i pump, an E30 318is pump, and a Tii pump all side by side. Can anyone point me to the post that has the picture? I just seen it the other day and want to say it was in an M20 swap post but I haven't been able to source it. Thanks.
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Shoot me your email and I'll send you some more detailed pictures. I think the handle has a crack but other than than I think everything is in relatively good shape. -
Before I order a new radiator from Blunt, I am wondering if someone could help me out with a radiator question. I see that 99.9% of the 02 guys that use a 323i radiator in their M20 use the later radiator. Does anyone know why? I have asked on the FAQ in the past but I have had no luck. My rationale to use the earlier 323i radiator is because the outlet on the drivers side is not angled like the later version, thinking that it would provide better clearance for the lower hose. But looking at everyone using the later it doesn't seem to matter. The biggest issue that is puzzling me is mounting the bottom of the radiator. Meaning, based on catalog diagrams, the early 323i radiator would sit nearly flush against the 02's core support which may create a clearance issue with the hood support. It appears that the later radiator sits on top of rubber mounts that would elevate the bottom a little compared to how the earlier one mount thus not conflicting with the hood supports. I have added a little sketch if there is any confusion. Based on what I have described I am likely going to switch and use the later radiator since that is what everyone else has used. I just want to confirm my reasoning before having it imported and there are no returns.
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Changing the subject a little, I am wondering if someone could help me out with a radiator question. I see that 99.9% of the 02 guys that use a 323i radiator in their M20 use the later radiator. Does anyone know why? I have asked on the FAQ in the past but I have had no luck. My rationale to use the earlier 323i radiator is because the outlet on the drivers side is not angled like the later version, thinking that it would provide better clearance for the lower hose. But looking at everyone using the later it doesn't seem to matter. The biggest issue that is puzzling me is mounting the bottom of the radiator. Meaning, based on catalog diagrams, the early 323i radiator would sit nearly flush against the 02's core support which may create a clearance issue with the hood support. It appears that the later radiator sits on top of rubber mounts that would elevate the bottom a little compared to how the earlier one mount thus not conflicting with the hood supports. I have added a little sketch if there is any confusion. Based on what I have described I am likely going to switch and use the later radiator since that is what everyone else has used. I just want to confirm my reasoning before having it imported and there are no returns.
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Location: : Olalla,Wa I am starting to clean out my garage and have some parts that I no longer need or don't have the heart to throw away. - Passenger rear bumper corner (came off a 72): $75 OBO - Early style heater core (passed pressure test about 3 years ago and has been boxed since): $75 OBO - A set of bumperettes (I believe they were off the front): $50 OBO for the set - Auto pedel box: $50 OBO - Mechanical pedal box (Por15 coating): $50 OBO - Misc. Auto shift control: $ 25 OBO - One pair early hub caps: $ 10 OBO for set - One set of hub caps from a 72: $20 OBO for set
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Anyone know if there are differences in mounting location? I think Manimal's mounts position the engine farther back then most others.
