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chad

M20 Engine Mounts

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(edited)

Price:: 200.00

I have designed these mount with the intentions of not cutting the front of the car and using an E21 323i radiator so it will look as factory as possible.  The engine is positioned as far back as possible without extensive modification to the firewall.  The portion of the rain drip tray will need some cosmetic work along with a little massaging of the firewall.  My 02 originally was an auto so the manual transmission cars may need a little more.  I am also using a G245 transmission for my swap so I do not know if the stock E30 driveline will fit.  There may be additional minor modification but my key points are listed below:

·         No cut for a stock E21 323i radiator;

·         Need to offset the passenger engine mount approximately 15-20mm;

·         Minor rain drip tray work for clearance;

·         Minor firewall work for clearance;

·         Relocate the shifter hole back;

·         Shorten the driveshaft;

·         Stock BMW radiator hoses;

·         Using a combination of E30 and 02 heater hoses.

·         Engine is at 20 degrees

All pieces of these mounts are cut on the plasma table for a nice clean “factory” look.

A complete set of mount is $200 shipped (lower 48). 

Chad Wallin

[email protected]

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Edited by chad

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UPDATE:  I realize that most people in the past use a vw radiator because the stock E21 323i one is some what insufficient for the M20.  I largely agree, my gray market 323i (recently sold) ran a stock radiator and would run a little hot while in traffic.  However, there is a solution.  Some guys with 323s have bought an aluminum E30 M3 radiator and had the lower outlet swapped to the other side so it will fit in the factory location.  This mod appears to be a big improvement cooling the M20.  I am unaware of anyone who has done this that still have cooling issues with their 323i.  I am in the process of determining if this radiator will still fit without cutting because an aluminum radiator is likely a little thicker than the stock 323i.  In addition, the price of the radiator and mod will likely be cheaper than a factory E21 323i radiator.  

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JakeB/Classic Daily has a well documented pdf on the M42 swap.  For that swap he used the stock M42 radiator, the pics doesn't look like he cut/bent the front support, but clearance to me is unknown since the M42 is smaller than the M20.

 

There are threads on r3v that show lots of E30 guys using the M42 radiator on their M20 cars.  I guess if you put two and two together it could probably fit, but unknown until someone tries.

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From what I've read it seems that the two bleed screws make it a little harder to bleed. But its only gonna be done once so whatever haha.

Chad, as far as offsetting the passenger side mount,is there a new piece you're including in the kit or does it just need to be slotted?

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I didn't slot the hole but I think I have seen pictures of people doing it in the past.  As for locating the new hole for the right mount, I would mount the left side and the transmission first, assuming you have made the room in the tunnel already.  Once you locate the transmission, mount the right side and mark your new hole.  That's what I did but I had my engine and transmission up on supports so I could take the mounts on and off when I was designing them.  You could just mount the left side first and not deal with the transmission.  The offset for each hole should be about the same distance.  I am also using IE's urethane mounts.  They don't have the "nubs" like the factory ones.  

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I didn't slot the hole but I think I have seen pictures of people doing it in the past. As for locating the new hole for the right mount, I would mount the left side and the transmission first, assuming you have made the room in the tunnel already. Once you locate the transmission, mount the right side and mark your new hole. That's what I did but I had my engine and transmission up on supports so I could take the mounts on and off when I was designing them. You could just mount the left side first and not deal with the transmission. The offset for each hole should be about the same distance. I am also using IE's urethane mounts. They don't have the "nubs" like the factory ones.

OK so only the passenger side holes are being offset? And as far as modifying the drip tray, did you just completely cut it out? Would it be possible just to hammer it in a bit to clear? Sorry for all the questions

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Correct.  As for the drip tray, I used a hammer and dolly to create the radius above the valve cover.  You will also have a little hammer work to do for the transmission.  

 

Keep the questions coming.  

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