Turb02

Well since I have 3 heads in my garage, I tried hard and got one out with the wrong tools. the hardest part was to get the rocker shafts out. without the correct tools it took much longer than it should have and I wont be able to reuse them. I used a 2 foot extension and a hammer and went to town. make sure you remove the little circlips that are on the shafts. After it was pushed in far enough, I removed the spring and rocker, repeat. Totally the incorrect way to do this but there was no damage to the head, just the replaceable parts. Again I used 1 of the 3 E12 heads that I had laying around as a test mule. When I get my head rebuild, it IS going to a shop that has the tools and know WTF they are doing. Once all the rockers were out, the camshaft came out pretty easy.

If you dont mind me asking, what is this gonna cost? I have been trying to get my wife to realize that IF I get a detatched garage she would have room to park in our 2 car garage as I would be able to move my 2002 and its parts into the detatched.

Pat, Did you get my email?

Pat, Did you get my email?

email sent

How would one come about getting the firmware update? What is the cost, if any, and for what version? You have to order the chip from them and replace it (record your settings before as the new one will be "blank") ...it did cost me something like 50$ back then, not sure. the last one have few other new nice features that i dont have (check engine light, lean condition warning,...) go on their web site and contact them by e-mail. always prompt and nice guys. Thanks. I went and checked it out. the price is 100 now...no bigge there but I need to verify what version I have. I did notice that the programming piece that I hvae isnt the same as the one in the pics on their site. I have protruding red buttons instead of flat grey buttons. Whats up with that? Is it just an older version. Thanks. yup thats a old version, it shoundt matter as the chip into the main module dont know. ask them all this and they will tell you. you might need to open your main unit to see what firmware revision oyu have (sitcker on the cpu). no matter what you have an old unit. need to be updated. Thanks I will end up doing that. Can the programmer be upgraded as well? I guess that qusetion is best suited for the company itself, huh? Pat, is there a way that I can contact you offline? Email?

How would one come about getting the firmware update? What is the cost, if any, and for what version? You have to order the chip from them and replace it (record your settings before as the new one will be "blank") ...it did cost me something like 50$ back then, not sure. the last one have few other new nice features that i dont have (check engine light, lean condition warning,...) go on their web site and contact them by e-mail. always prompt and nice guys. Thanks. I went and checked it out. the price is 100 now...no bigge there but I need to verify what version I have. I did notice that the programming piece that I hvae isnt the same as the one in the pics on their site. I have protruding red buttons instead of flat grey buttons. Whats up with that? Is it just an older version. Thanks.

How would one come about getting the firmware update? What is the cost, if any, and for what version?

The SDS most likely uses a narrow band sensor. I have an LC-1, the sensor is a wideband but the controller puts out both a narrow and wide band signals. Use the one you need into the SDS. If narrowband, closed loop control becomes out of range quickly with the narrowband for turbo applications on load. Your sensor goes downstream of the turbo in either case. IIRC it does use the narrow band. so using only one o2 will suffice? I was under the impression that 2 were needed, one for each. I understand that he o2 will be downstream of the turbo but I have seen some applications on e30tech where there is a o2 not to far off the turbo on the downpipe. Thanks again

I had planned on getting the LC-1. Which brings another question. The SDS requires an O2 sensor. Where does that one go and do I use a different one for the LC-1? If so, where does that one go? I have heard that the LC-1 O2 would go right after the turbo, or is that backwards and the SDS one go there?

Its gonna be a weekend car and nice day driver with the track in mind. The turbo that I am using has been used before and allows boost to build quite early so I dont feel that the low end will suffer that bad. SO using the stock cam will work best for the application. Check. Probably going to use a tb from the 535 as others have used before. For the SDS, I should use the tune that is existing? I want to be sure of this because tax season is here and I will be getting my motor built and would like to get it running this summer.

My goal is 275 whp. however I can get there with the HX35 and the SDS is what I hope to find out. So a stock cam will work great with the 318 fuel rail and intake manifold? What is a good throttle body? So everyone is saying that the tune on the SDS is a good start? What would I have to do to the tuning to be able to use it for my build?

I understand that I dont have to buy the exact brand and all and I DONT want to build 2 engines. He used mahle vw drag racing pistons (thats what they are called on the site that I cant think of). Pistons were 90.5 mm and the cr was 8.2:1. Itold my mechanic that is what I wanted and he couldnt understand why I would bore it to almost to the max on the first rebuild. He also stated that the car would have to low cr for off boost response. I really dont think it will be off boost that much So a stock cam works well enough to get almost 300 ponies?

yeah, Lee is right about the camo...you will push most of the boost right thru the exhaust...less will remain into the combustion chamber, you will have a very nice 5mpg car the SDS settings will look very weird under boost. you will have to increase your afr a lot and you will not see why...unless you understand what we try to tell you. Thanks for the info guys. I have been searching for more info on a turbo friendly cam and cant seem to find one. What is a good cam to use? I chose the 292 because over on e30tech.com there are several turbo M10's and some are using the 292 cam. Making the engine exactly like toe PO of the SDS could be done however, he used VW pistons that would require either custom rods or a lot of decking. I didnt pay any more for the SDS because it was dyno tuned. 825 shipped with all sensors and crank pulley minus IAT and coolant sensor. He was using a smaller turbo than what I have and I dont want to get a different turbo.

Ok, although Im nowhere near ready for tuning the thing since my motor isnt build yet but I need to know a few things. What are the values that you used for the break in period? Was it turbo'd after breaking in the motor? I would like to break the motor in before slapping the turbo on there and I know that I will have to find an exhaust manifold that isnt turbo ready in order to do this. The reason I want to know is because I dont want to have to do a ring job shortly after I install the motor. I know there are a few on here that use SDS and would like to know how you all did the break in. If you have any values that you have saved for the break in, it would do wonders for me if you could help me on this. My setup will be: 292 cam forged pistons ~8.2-5:1 cr dual springs and oversozed intake and exhaust valves light port and polish head 318 intake manifold and ??? throttle body Holset HX35 turbo (split pulse custom tubular manifold) The SDS system that I bought was from a gentleman in WA and it came off a E21 turbo M10 with 100 hours of dyno time that he stated put down ~240 to the wheels. His setup was similar but had a lower cr using VW pistons and (i think) a T3 or T3/4. I know its a bad idea to use someone elses tune since the setups are different and could terminally damage my motor so I think Im going to reset the system and start from scratch. I still have all his values because he was so kind as to have everything printed off and even sent dyno sheets (almost 2in thick of paper from tuning and dyno data) Thanks for reading this and thanks in advance! Dane K

For that kinda money, you can buy a Metric Mechanic stroker motor. 2.3 I believe. It is an M10 with a S14 crank and lots of stuff done to the head. Search google or go to metricmechanic dot com, get their number and Call Jim. make sure you block off about an hour because he's a talker!! I think the price for the stroker is ~6K. then 1K for a mechanic to remove the old and install the new. If you want more hp than a built NA motor, go turbo and you wont hit your budget of 7K for the motor. Dont forget about the driveline though, it will need to be beefed up.

You can say that again! When I bought my car in 2005 it ran virtually on 3 cyl's and had bad valve seals. a few months ago I decided to rebuild the entire engine and head for a custom turbo application that will produce around 300 hp. To rebuild the head will cost (in parts) around 1200 plus ~350 for installing the parts. Then the machine work and porting and polishing will run around another 3-500. The bottom end is gonna get new custom pistons and total seal rings ~600. Then the machine work and balancing the crank, if needed and magnafluxing it, bore and hone ~600, then the price to put it all together will be around 300. so at the low end it will cost me 2750 and the high end will be around 3K This doesnt include the price of the HX35 turbo that I bought fro 500, SDS engine management for 825, 318 intake setup with the fuel rail and some other assorted parts needed for 300, fabrication of a turbo manifold and exhaust system ~1K, radiator..... The list keeps going up and the project keeps getting pushed further to the right due to the price of everything.

Its got the piano tops but even so, the CR isnt that low at 9.0 is it?

Yes it does but that will soon go away once the wife lets me spend money on my project.

Looking here you can kinda tell what the ratio is...as long as you know the rod length. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/46/32/ So either I have 9.0 or 9.5 but Im not sure. Either way its not very low compression compared to the other ratio's available IMO.

Thanks for the clarification all. I guess it doesnt matter because it still HAD the smog crap which was mostly on the 75's right? As for the 75 being undesireable due to the smog and the lower compression ratio, what was the compression ratio? It had piano tops. i have seen the post with all the piston styles and ratios and I matched up what my piston looked like to the one on the page and it said that it had 9.5:1. That isnt very low. Whats the deal there? TIA Dane

but the registry states its a 74!! the title and the original window sticker say its a 75 and it has (had) all the smog stuff on it. Can someone clear things up for me? V.I.N is 2360786

part of an alarm system? Looks to new to be factory or replacement. my .02

part of an alarm system? Looks to new to be factory or replacement. my .02

Great looking project. I see one problem though. The Ford racing fender protector