wickstad

Is the head a torx 45?

I had a few made. Info on the key: 1125H........H5......ilco...usa. I just tried one and it works. I also have the original.

My car is 01/74 and I'm pretty sure it's two since I changed them both and what a simple way to get rid of a very loud and obnoxious noise.

Take this fwiw. The best service I've ever had was at a place where when I asked the guy to give me a quote he pretty much gave me a lecture on price. "people can pay this and people can pay that blah, blah, blah..." So when I left him I had no idea what I was going to pay. When I picked the car up I was astonished almost to the point of tears at how far above and beyond they went for my car. I didn't care what it cost. I just wish I had more work for them to do. Maybe have a shop do some of the work and make a judgment after that whether or not you're getting ripped off. I also took out my a/c and left the stuff in front of the radiator in there for now. I wonder if the aux fan might come in handy if I can hook up a toggle switch for it?

Now that I've looked at this site a couple of times from the office computer it looks just fine. My laptop has like a 14" monitor compared to 17" at work. Nevermind.

Dig the blue car though it needs a windshield for your "good to go" sticker . How's the X3 treatin' you?

I did this using a rubber band. The secondary did not entirely close and created high idle. At least I discovered what it feels like to have the secondary open up. You will notice the difference in normal driving if you have been driving around on your primary only. The vacuum is picked up down near the butterfly in the secondary opening. I should be nearly facing you as you stand there.

A very exciting race today in the Group 4 category. Eight 02s on the roster. I haven't reviewed my video tapes yet since we just got home but there was a drag race to second place between an 02 and Porsche. Yellow #95 '68 02 driven by Brian Grandon wins my vote for most entertaining. He started dead last and worked his butt off to move up quite a few positions. His race included an off after coming down the hill really fast and taking positions on the outside, then sideways on the track and off again without letting off (so it seemed), and regaining the track again without losing a position. If you can go Sunday. $25 and for a good cause. And well worth it today!

http://my2002tii.com/how_to_dash_gauges.htm This helped me out when I had my gauge pod out. I think E goes to the spot you have told us you cannot see in your picture. Right underneath the big round plug. Over on the tachometer side there was only one plug. Not sure which of your wires it is, but it goes in the lower middle of the tach. The other two had nothing plugged into them. btw. the rubber cover over the three prong plug on the gauge pod I just left it alone.

Other webzine sites that I visit have a cover page. With a nice picture that comes up front and center when you go to the url. I have to admit that I am generally on my way to the forum when I come here, but if there was a nice '02 picture to look at on the "cover" I would stop there for a bit longer and peruse more. Rip DukeRimmer. Sounds like you were one cool dude.

http://www2.bimmerpartswholesale.com/parts/parts1/bimmerparts/wizard.jsp?year=1974&make=BM&model=2002--001&category=S∂=Carburetor+Repair+Kit&dp=false I can't be 100% sure but the triangular piece in the lower right of the picture looks like the diaphram from my car. I don't remember those extra holes though. I can say I ordered some exhaust hanger bushings from this site and was pleased with their service Edit to add: I looked at it again enlarged and I think that is just a gasket. Sorry.

This assumes that your diaphram is still there and not literally "gone" as the mechanic told you. Mine wasn't working either so I decided to take a look. I pulled the mechanism off the carb. There is one small gasket to watch for here that seals between the mechanism and the carb. Mine was stuck to the mechanism. The mechanism is attached by two screws to the carb and a simple plastic retainer/bushing to the throttle linkage portion. I chose to blow light compressed air into the carb port to make sure there was not a blockage there. Then I took the mechanism apart. Three screws (mine is triangular shaped). The diaphram seals the two parts as well as activates the throttle. The diaphram is attached to a washer. The washer is what the spring pushes against to make sure your secondary throttle is off when not being called upon by the vacuum. It is at this attachment where my diaphram was cracked through in several places. So I cleaned it up with swabs and nailgun oil, rubbing alchohol would probably work as well. Then with an ordinary Bell brand inner tube repair kit I cut a two dimensional doughnut (it needs to be an entire circle but it still needs to pass over the linkage portion) and set it aside. Then with the diaphram pushed all the way inside out, I swabbed the cracks with the cement from the kit and patched up the diaphram. I held it for a while in place and made sure all the cracks were covered. Then just reassemble and reinstall. It worked for me. Your mileage may vary. I did see the part on a website that I've had good luck with. However, it came as part of a $75 kit.[/b]

I won't have time for details until this evening (Pac Coast) so stay tuned.

I diy'd mine with a bicycle inner tube repair kit. It works. I don't have pictures but if you want I can explain how I did it.

I only know the oil by the scent. That minty smell that tells me someone has seriously screwed up. I repair air powered nailguns. They are loaded with o-rings. I know that marvel mystery oil is marketed for air tools. I still say don't use it. I say go home, find your marvel mystery oil, and throw it away. Obviously this is a light hearted thread, and this is an internet opinion, your mileage may vary, etc. but don't put marvel mystery oil in your nailguns. I recommend Senco air tool oil, but any company that manufactures nailguns should also sell lubricant. I think it is basically 10 weight non-detergent.

Marvel Mystery Oil will turn rubber to mush. I do not recommend lubing air tools with it. I recommend throwing it out. Often.

As in Air Conditioning. My car has it but I was told by the PO that it needs to be recharged. I also have a receipt for a new compressor that was installed around 2001. I really would like it to work. I guess my questions are: Why is it not charged if it had a new compressor installed in 2001? Is there some sort of leak-down test that can be done? I have e-mailed the PO with questions about it but if anyone here has any input it would be appreciated.

I'd like to know what color they painted it. The article was remiss in this department.

Thanks alot guys. From the search function I heard about the POR-15 but wasn't sure if it would work on the seam. Dubois I'm up in Washington state. But thanks for the offer.

Has anyone repaired a gas tank that leaks at the seam where the top and bottom halves come together?

That looks cool but I'll be skiing as well. Have fun all. I'll be hoping the weather holds for ya. Even though that means hard snow for me. Where do you ski Colin?

I have a '74 with Figiking AC. I believe the carpet is original. I suspect rust is luking underneath. I would like you folks to share information, tips and pitfalls about removing the carpet. Like how does the black plastic seal/rocker panel cover come off for one. Please don't feel like any info is too obvious to note. I will appreciate every reply.

Anyone painted an '02 with rasta colors?