albawhore

I think the seller has a pretty good rep. JB

Ash00 did stainless on his car and although 1000% over built they came out really nice. JEGS and Summit both sell brake line kits and flaring tools fittings etc. They both offer free shipping and are BLAZINGLY fast on deliveries (JEGS especially). Good Luck Justin

Go to the DMV website section about getting dmv records, there is a form there INF 70 that you can submit and they will give you all of the public record stuff they can. I do not think they will give you names but you should be able to get # of owners, when, where etc. Cheers Justin

Steve, Could you find out a price for personalized t-shirts that we could wear at events? I was thinking our handle across the back in some bold Germanesque lettering like a sports jersey and our first name on the front by the site logo. I personally would pay ~$25 or $30 for one but I think if we get a group buy together we could get it down some. Just a thought Justin

Went out and had a splendid Mexican feast with my wife last night and the total was $20.02, it even made her laugh (RARE). Cheers JB

Welcome, It looks decent but we all know how deceiving looks can be. Go to www.2002haus.com and download their pre-purchase form. It will give you all the things to check and look for. Best of Luck Justin

I can't answer why but I came up with 2 part #'s pre 84= 21 51 12 04 525 $66.09 and 84 on= 21 51 75 21 471 $44.63. These prices are from bmw-auto-parts-dealer.com and I bet BLUNT can beat them by a little. Good Luck Justin

The 1976 cars have to pass smog here in california. A well tuned o2 will easily pass the smog test however the system that bmw used is very cantankerous and 30 years old. Some of the replacement parts can be expensive. I am currently banging my head against my '76 trying to find an idle miss just so I can go get a pre-test. Go out and buy yourself the Haynes manual for your car and start reading. Start in the sections for tune-up, and radiator replacement. Read the sections thoroughly and go out and look at the car. Do all of the work in your head before you even open a tool box!!!!! If it still seems too intimidating then start making a plan to enlist some help or start talking to shops. The people on this board will be invaluable to get you through sticky situatios and most will tolerate even the most inane questions. I have been working on cars for 27+ years and I have been duped by the subtle nuances of these cars. I generally turn the very simple into some writhing monster (to much time with asian and american cars). These cars are just about as basic as you can get. Do not be afraid, go slow, take LOTS of pictures as you disassemble stuff and try your best to be confident. The confidence thing really makes a huge difference. Things WILL break. Things WILL go wrong. You WILL bleed. When all is said and done (and healed) and you are jetting down the coast highway or through the headlands out to Stinson in a car that you yourself breathed life into the feeling will be as pure and golden as you have ever known. Cheers Justin

After the canister it goes to the air cleaner, there is a small tube right net to the crankcase breather tube. You can indeed ditch the charcoal canister if you do not have to worry about smog, you could then just run a vent from the reservoir to outside the car. I am not sure, someone else will probably chime in, but I think you can abandon the blue tube and just go from the reservoir down through the floor of the trunk to under the car. Good Luck Justin

Ash, Glad to see your post, and I hope you and Karl are having some quality make-up time. Justin

Welcome to the wonderful world of o2's. You can log onto bayarea02.com for a list of shops etc.. Before you even think about paint and upholstry you NEED to get the smog dealt with, it can be very expensive. You could save a ton of money if you put some sweat equity into the easy fix stuff like a tune up, the radiator etc.. Working on these cars is really very simple and straight forward. Any shop you go to here in the bay area is going to hit you for ~$100-$125 an hour for labor and they are going to mark-up their parts, even very reputable shops will employ this practice. If you are dead set on having someone else do the work than I suggest that you spend $40 and join the BMWCCA (bmw car club of america). Joining the club will give you a myriad of benefits which include 10-20% discounts on parts and labor at various dealerships and some independent shops. There is also a local chapter that will provide you with additional benefits such as drivers schools, track days and auto crosses. I am in Sunnyvale and would be willing to lend a hand to a fellow o2'er. Best of Luck Justin

The line from the vapor reservoir goes to the chacoal canister I hope this helps JB

The metal line that runs down the drivers frame rail is a return line and goes to the return bung on the tank. The fuel supply line (mine was clear) changes to regular fuel hose hits a filter over the intake manifold adjacent to the choke and then hits the supply side of the fuel pump. The line from the reservoir changes to regular fuel line and goes to the charcoal canister on the drivers fender right next to the brake fluid reservoir. My 75's and 76's have all had fuel regulators after the pump and before the carb. So you come out of the pump hit the regulator and then the carb and the return line attaches to the bottom of the regulator. I hope this helps. Good Luck Justin

I have heard of putting a baseball bat in between the tire and the fender and rolling the car back and forth gradually moving to the thicker end of the bat until the desired effect is achieved. Since a baseball bat may also be hard to come by in your neck of the woods, any tapered wooden dowel would work. I suppose it would have to be hardwood though. Good Luck JB

I am not sure, you would have to ask an expert as I am a non-Tii guy but I seem to remember the Tii dizzy's being all mech. Good Luck JB

I have Sumitomo HTR200's in a 185/60/13 that I got for ~$50 a corner on 13x6 Chromodoras that do everything I want them to. I have never auto crossed them but they blaze cloverleafs without giving an inch, they are actually kind of tough to break loose. I seem to remember that when I met ash00 he had a set of the same tires in a 205 on wider rims of course. Good Luck Justin

Especially silicone brake fluid.

Talstrip Aircraft paint remover is about the best that I have seen, but it still doesn't stand up to other products. Good Luck Justin

Thanks guy's. I knew drilling the rivet sounded like a bad idea, that is the first solution I came up with which generally means it is a bad idea. Justin

Lee, The Billy HD's that I took off of the '75 have 50.5 mm tubes, 10.5 mm shafts and 38 mm rings at the bottom where the bushes go. The inside dia. of the sleeve at the bush is 9.6 mm. I hope this helps. Cheers Justin

I am breaking my doors down for restoration and I cannot figure out how to get the wing window separated from the rest of the assembly. TIA Justin

Those are Bosch #'s not bmw #'s so I don't think Realoem will help. The starter vshould be fine I am pretty sure they are all the same, as far as the dizzy that one is a vac advance isn't it. I thought Tii's were mech. advance. Good Luck Justin

Invisible Glass by Stoner. Most parts stores. It lives up to it's name. Justin

What model is the donor? Will I need to do anything for the sway bars? I am already going for the coilovers so I should be OK there. Do any of the donors run disc's? TIA Justin

If the engine is in pieces you might as well do it right and rebuild the whole thing. With a mild cam and a 32/36, header, ansa, etc. you will have a good reliable peppy car that you can expect around 25 mpg out of. A 38/38 would probably knock 3-5 mpg off and so on. As far as shops you will have to talk to the locals, I know of 2002haus in SLO and LaJolla independent. You could call Jeff Ireland at Ireland Engineering out in Duarte and I bet he could give you rock solid advice for shops. Good Luck Justin